high indoor humidity

Yeh, I trying to convince wife here that we need go to Key West very soon, never been there, either of us, so need do it while gas is down, as asshole in DC is going to jack up prices soon as he takes over....5 bux+/gallon here we come again...no question....470 miles to Marathon Key....I understand a decent hotel there, then KW for a day, then back to the hotel, then head west on Alligator alley and up the west coast for 2-3 days....

still think the OP's problem is simple, to much water around the foundation, land grading and gutters is first place to start....

gotta let that basement dry out a bit too, going to take up to 2-3 months to happen....

:eek:
 
big2bird said:
mrvette said:
so need do it while gas is down, as asshole in DC is going to jack up prices soon as he takes over....5 bux+/gallon here we come again...no question...
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"I don't think so Tim.":quote:
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Jeff, all I can do is go on his own words in speeches...i'ts all over the net....

he wants to BK the coal industry by this pollution credit BS that Gore is into, he wants to double+ electric rates, 50% of our electric comes from coal, like it or not....he wasn't in favor of nuclear untill it got jammed up his ass on that one, but he not going to go nuclear, that's obvious...so where do you feel electric not going up by huge amounts?? plus attendant brownouts.....

this greenie movement is killing the country, but that's what the idiots voted for, I guess we will have to park our cars, and ride bikes through 6' of Minnesota snow drifts to work in Ninni-Saint ......they getting Frankin for a senator like it or not, as the fix is in on that one....
same as the Alaska thing...the fix is in....

Jap economy been in the doldrums for some time now, and so they'd better be ready to gear up when the 3 American companies cease operations, which will happen shortly......

with that anti nuclear bunch around him, the coal bullshit tax/emission lie, and the other thing with pushing electric cars....there simply is not enough grid to take the load for transportation.....that's the facts of life today, the batteries suck, but you know that already Jeff, I don't have to preach ...

:crylol:
 
On modern high efficiency furnaces…doesn’t the furnace first purge the exhaust pipe and if it cannot reach a certain flow rate the furnace will not fire?

The fist few weeks of the cold season I always experience the condensation on some of my windows. However, once we have been heating for a few weeks and the dry winter air moves in it no longer happens. I can’t imagine running a dehumidifier this time of year.
 
did all this happen at the same time you put the new high efficiency furnace in? if so it seems to me that there is a venting problem somewhere? my high efficiency furnace actually drains into the floor drain when the heating furnace is on. i asked the builder about this and he said these furnace are so efficient that they produce lots of water as byproduct of combustion.
 
we have had a dehumidifier running every night both in the basement and the kitchen, I have a computerized electric meter that charges me lots less from 7PM to 7AM and all day Sat & Sun...the dehumidifier has helped quite a bit, I have drained about a gallon every two nights, the one in the basement drains into the sump pump crock so I don`t know how much water it`s pulling out of the air. This is my second high efficiency furnace, the first one lasted 20+ years and was working fine with a new hot surface igniter every year, I got tired of listening "if" the furnace was going to start or not and had the furnace replaced, yes it drains into my sump pump crock... I am thinking the humidity has something to do with the crawl space (unheated but open to the basement), looking in there it looks bone dry, dusty actually. thanks to all who responded, and feel free to keep the ideas coming.
H.
 
redvetracr said:
we have had a dehumidifier running every night both in the basement and the kitchen, I have a computerized electric meter that charges me lots less from 7PM to 7AM and all day Sat & Sun...the dehumidifier has helped quite a bit, I have drained about a gallon every two nights, the one in the basement drains into the sump pump crock so I don`t know how much water it`s pulling out of the air. This is my second high efficiency furnace, the first one lasted 20+ years and was working fine with a new hot surface igniter every year, I got tired of listening "if" the furnace was going to start or not and had the furnace replaced, yes it drains into my sump pump crock... I am thinking the humidity has something to do with the crawl space (unheated but open to the basement), looking in there it looks bone dry, dusty actually. thanks to all who responded, and feel free to keep the ideas coming.
H.
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I have a dehumidifier in my basement that runs 24/7/365 and empties into my sump,i have it set to keep a 50% humidity level
 
redvetracr said:
we have had a dehumidifier running every night both in the basement and the kitchen, I have a computerized electric meter that charges me lots less from 7PM to 7AM and all day Sat & Sun...the dehumidifier has helped quite a bit, I have drained about a gallon every two nights, the one in the basement drains into the sump pump crock so I don`t know how much water it`s pulling out of the air. This is my second high efficiency furnace, the first one lasted 20+ years and was working fine with a new hot surface igniter every year, I got tired of listening "if" the furnace was going to start or not and had the furnace replaced, yes it drains into my sump pump crock... I am thinking the humidity has something to do with the crawl space (unheated but open to the basement), looking in there it looks bone dry, dusty actually. thanks to all who responded, and feel free to keep the ideas coming.
H.
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Just curious did the lower outside temps eliminate the moisture problem?
 
Like Gene said it could come from the basement floor.
Simple trick to find out, just lay a rubber carpet or tape a lets say a 2 by 2 ft piece of plastic on the concrete floorand leave it there for a couples of days.
When you remove it if the concrete is darker where the plastic was, theres humidity coming from under the floor.

When we built the house here we installed a 2inch insulating styrofoam all over before pouring the floor concrete since we were going to have rooms there.
 
1Michel said:
Like Gene said it could come from the basement floor.
Simple trick to find out, just lay a rubber carpet or tape a lets say a 2 by 2 ft piece of plastic on the concrete floorand leave it there for a couples of days.
When you remove it if the concrete is darker where the plastic was, theres humidity coming from under the floor.

When we built the house here we installed a 2inch insulating styrofoam all over before pouring the floor concrete since we were going to have rooms there.
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Yup, very true, I forgot about that....seen that demo'd many a time....mostly I found it was the basement block walls, and found the only way to stop the moisture was to cure it with land grading and gutter routing from outside.....

:eek:
 
Personnaly I think the styrofoam didnt realy help the humidity, I think that the drain installed all around the perimeter of the house a bit lower than the house evacuates the water. It collect the water and reroutes it away from the house.

But to check if you have humidity coming from the ground, the plastic or carpet is a pretty good indicator
 
1Michel said:
Personnaly I think the styrofoam didnt realy help the humidity, I think that the drain installed all around the perimeter of the house a bit lower than the house evacuates the water. It collect the water and reroutes it away from the house.

But to check if you have humidity coming from the ground, the plastic or carpet is a pretty good indicator
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Correct. The insulation would help with temperature loss. The French drain would lead ground water away from the foundation. A vapor barrier such as Visqueen would be best for vapor intrusion. Application of all 3 would be best.
Your humidity check is sound advice. We use a plastic bubble with hydroscopic dessicant beads taped to the floor for 24 hours, that are then sent to a lab for analysis.
 
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