HVAC and/or attic ventilation

[JPhil]

I caulked all the recessed lights in the hallway tonight. Lord, I have become obsessed.:crap:

Hey, as a sparky I know you must be aware of the fire dangers of recessed can lights smothered in insulation (dust & crap), especially if not IC rated----did you allow for some kind of air space around/above them so that when you stopped the cooling air flow (& leakage) you don't create an overheating/fire hazard?

Just a quick thought from your friendly Building Inspector


PS & don't froget the penetrations where your sink supply & drain pipes go through the cabinets & walls

(you been getting a little crank from the bikers at the job site?? that helps a lot with a project like this!!.....JK)

 

[73 Mike]

I caulked all the recessed lights in the hallway tonight. Lord, I have become obsessed.:crap:

Hey, as a sparky I know you must be aware of the fire dangers of recessed can lights smothered in insulation (dust & crap), especially if not IC rated----did you allow for some kind of air space around/above them so that when you stopped the cooling air flow (& leakage) you don't create an overheating/fire hazard?

Just a quick thought from your friendly Building Inspector


PS & don't froget the penetrations where your sink supply & drain pipes go through the cabinets & walls

(you been getting a little crank from the bikers at the job site?? that helps a lot with a project like this!!.....JK)

I've seen plastic "bubble" covers at Home Depot for the light pods. I don't think they were ventilated though. Would these meet code or would they be just as bad at covering the pods with insulation?

 

[Maymyvetteliveforever]

I've seen plastic "bubble" covers at Home Depot for the light pods.

I believe you need the metal box as an means to seperated the recess light from the insulation and the plastic bubble is a air vapour barrier which goes on top on the metal type box, that holds the recess light. The insulation can then be placed on top and sides of the plastic bubble you refer to.

 

[big2bird]

I've seen plastic "bubble" covers at Home Depot for the light pods.

I believe you need the metal box as an means to seperated the recess light from the insulation and the plastic bubble is a air vapour barrier which goes on top on the metal type box, that holds the recess light. The insulation can then be placed on top and sides of the plastic bubble you refer to.

I have not seen these, but the gloden rule is "UL Listed." If it's listed for the application, it's usually accepted. The older recessed "can lights" like I have are supposed to have an air gap, and no insulation on top, which they don't.The IC type John refers to have a totally enclosed fixture, (no holes), and are larger, with a thermal shut off in case of overtemp. They are "Listed" for covering by insulation.

 

[JPhil]

This might be a good time to replace those old can lights with new ones rated for ASTM E 238 air leakage loss. They come labeled "air-tight", "air-lock" or "air-seal" and are IC rated.......Probably get low-energy bulbs for them too.

See if you can find an IECC (Int'l Energy Conservation Code) "Fundamentals Handbook" from someone ---maybe an architect or even a job super. They are more "hands on" with explanations & illustrations about energy code applications & installations, lotta good info directly related to what you're doing. The Governors Energy Office here in Colorado puts them out (we got ours from training seminars here). You may be able to find something similar online if you can't find a book itself. Heck, check at your local Building Department, if that's realistic. They may have something you can have.

John

 

[big2bird]

I cut in about 15 3"x22" vents in my stucco over the last two days. Cost about $80.00 plus my time. 10 are on the prevailing sea breeze side.

 

[big2bird]

Are those tails on 2 ft centers? If they are 2x4, I hope you are using the styrofoam or cardboard air chutes to keep the insulation from butting the bottom of the sheathing and blocking the air flow.

Well, I decided to get those afterall. :goodevil:I have to order them online at Lowes. $2.00@. No biggie, but it will take awhile. I can get them shipped to the store for free.:devil:

 

[big2bird]

I've learned one VERY cost effective measure. Solar screens on single pane windows on south and west facing are the most bang for the buck I have seen so far. BIG difference in heat intrusion.

 

[mrvette]

I've learned one VERY cost effective measure. Solar screens on single pane windows on south and west facing are the most bang for the buck I have seen so far. BIG difference in heat intrusion.

:yahoo: OH HELL YES, I have a ~4' high, 6' wide pix window in front, that sun used to beam in there in the afternoons, shades from hades didn't do any good....stuck in that 300 dollar HD plastic lo E thermal window, and it must have cut the 'feel' of it by about 75%.....

since then we have built a deck and a trellis we letting the Jasmine take over...good looking shade...

 

[010752]

I've seen plastic "bubble" covers at Home Depot for the light pods.

I believe you need the metal box as an means to seperated the recess light from the insulation and the plastic bubble is a air vapour barrier which goes on top on the metal type box, that holds the recess light. The insulation can then be placed on top and sides of the plastic bubble you refer to.

I have not seen these, but the gloden rule is "UL Listed." If it's listed for the application, it's usually accepted. The older recessed "can lights" like I have are supposed to have an air gap, and no insulation on top, which they don't.The IC type John refers to have a totally enclosed fixture, (no holes), and are larger, with a thermal shut off in case of overtemp. They are "Listed" for covering by insulation.

Used them.
Halo makes some nice sealed high hat cans and if you already have their older lights the guts will fit.
The “old work” cans are easy to install but hard to seal, the new work cans seal really well but you must install them from above the rock, and the flat bottom panel makes a nice area to caulk.
They make a big difference. With your license at a wholesale electrical supply, the cans should be dirt cheap.

Another big diff is foaming all the electrical boxes.
Drill a hole thru the rock/plaster at and against the outside corners of boxes, the size of the straw that comes with the can. Fill the space around the box inside the wall with foam, insulation will hold it from dropping. Cut the excess when dry and put the wall plates back on. No mess, no fuss. Use the max expanding foam. You don’t notice the leakage because of your warm climate. If it was 0° outside…….
Did my house and sometimes when I open or shut the front door, interior doors in the other end of the house will shut from the air pressure. That pretty tight considering there is still ductwork connecting all rooms.

I also used Stanley steel entrance doors. 1 ¾” thick foam filled with a magnetic weather seal.
I think a leaky entrance door weather seal can correspond to a 1 foot square hole in the door.
Used to get them for 110 bucks prehung without threshhold. Some are fake woodgrain and you can’t tell from more than 5 ft away, but for more money. a

I've learned one VERY cost effective measure. Solar screens on single pane windows on south and west facing are the most bang for the buck I have seen so far. BIG difference in heat intrusion.

Back to the “canopy effect” They use a really fine mesh stainless steel here. Goes on like window tint. The sun will bleach the paint on the opposite walls.
Had a house years ago a little further north. 100 ft tall oaks and walnuts covered the house, couldn’t see it from the air at all ,just tree tops. Neighbors were running their air long before I had to, until the humidity set in.

 

[mrvette]

I also used Stanley steel entrance doors. 1 ¾” thick foam filled with a magnetic weather seal.
I think a leaky entrance door weather seal can correspond to a 1 foot square hole in the door.
Used to get them for 110 bucks prehung without threshhold. Some are fake woodgrain and you can’t tell from more than 5 ft away, but for more money. a

I've learned one VERY cost effective measure. Solar screens on single pane windows on south and west facing are the most bang for the buck I have seen so far. BIG difference in heat intrusion.

Back to the “canopy effect” They use a really fine mesh stainless steel here. Goes on like window tint. The sun will bleach the paint on the opposite walls.
Had a house years ago a little further north. 100 ft tall oaks and walnuts covered the house, couldn’t see it from the air at all ,just tree tops. Neighbors were running their air long before I had to, until the humidity set in.

Down here, them steel doors don't fare to well, the water/humidity causes them to rust out quickly, lucky to get ten years out of one, used on on the southern face of my room addition, the wood frame lasted maybe 3 years, paint, caulk and all....rotted out about 4" on both sides, on bottom near the metal sill/threshold....I have kept a eye on the door itself, but seen plenty rusted through all to hell, and the chipboard centers get wet and it's over....

the only doors I have seen that seem to last a goodly bit, finish or not, are solid Mahogany.... I got lucky and fixed one I found on the street, handing on my front door, replacing that cardboard the builder put in....

steel mesh? interesting idea,....on the outside of the windows or inside, either way I see it as getting very hot, wouldn't that transmit heat??
Painted white??

 

[010752]

I also used Stanley steel entrance doors. 1 ¾” thick foam filled with a magnetic weather seal.
I think a leaky entrance door weather seal can correspond to a 1 foot square hole in the door.
Used to get them for 110 bucks prehung without threshhold. Some are fake woodgrain and you can’t tell from more than 5 ft away, but for more money. a

I've learned one VERY cost effective measure. Solar screens on single pane windows on south and west facing are the most bang for the buck I have seen so far. BIG difference in heat intrusion.

Back to the “canopy effect” They use a really fine mesh stainless steel here. Goes on like window tint. The sun will bleach the paint on the opposite walls.
Had a house years ago a little further north. 100 ft tall oaks and walnuts covered the house, couldn’t see it from the air at all ,just tree tops. Neighbors were running their air long before I had to, until the humidity set in.

Down here, them steel doors don't fare to well, the water/humidity causes them to rust out quickly, lucky to get ten years out of one, used on on the southern face of my room addition, the wood frame lasted maybe 3 years, paint, caulk and all....rotted out about 4" on both sides, on bottom near the metal sill/threshold....I have kept a eye on the door itself, but seen plenty rusted through all to hell, and the chipboard centers get wet and it's over....

the only doors I have seen that seem to last a goodly bit, finish or not, are solid Mahogany.... I got lucky and fixed one I found on the street, handing on my front door, replacing that cardboard the builder put in....

steel mesh? interesting idea,....on the outside of the windows or inside, either way I see it as getting very hot, wouldn't that transmit heat??
Painted white??

I've several sets of the Stanley doors that have been up for over 15 years without rust or jamb damage. They are all covered by at least 5 ft of overhang to prevent rain runoff.
I also have 1 that is only covered by a 16" overhang and the frame legs are rotted, but the door is okay. Stanley warrants against rust for 10 years. Ho chipboard in the doors I used, wooded outer frame foam center and metal clad.

The best door I put in for a customer was a fiberglass door and frame, warranted for 40 years or something silly, but it started at over a grand for a basic prehung ugly door.


The ss mesh is just like window tint, put on the same way, so fine you can't even see the mesh. Does not wear out like normal tint.

 

[mrvette]

I also used Stanley steel entrance doors. 1 ¾” thick foam filled with a magnetic weather seal.
I think a leaky entrance door weather seal can correspond to a 1 foot square hole in the door.
Used to get them for 110 bucks prehung without threshhold. Some are fake woodgrain and you can’t tell from more than 5 ft away, but for more money. a

I've learned one VERY cost effective measure. Solar screens on single pane windows on south and west facing are the most bang for the buck I have seen so far. BIG difference in heat intrusion.

Back to the “canopy effect” They use a really fine mesh stainless steel here. Goes on like window tint. The sun will bleach the paint on the opposite walls.
Had a house years ago a little further north. 100 ft tall oaks and walnuts covered the house, couldn’t see it from the air at all ,just tree tops. Neighbors were running their air long before I had to, until the humidity set in.

Down here, them steel doors don't fare to well, the water/humidity causes them to rust out quickly, lucky to get ten years out of one, used on on the southern face of my room addition, the wood frame lasted maybe 3 years, paint, caulk and all....rotted out about 4" on both sides, on bottom near the metal sill/threshold....I have kept a eye on the door itself, but seen plenty rusted through all to hell, and the chipboard centers get wet and it's over....

the only doors I have seen that seem to last a goodly bit, finish or not, are solid Mahogany.... I got lucky and fixed one I found on the street, handing on my front door, replacing that cardboard the builder put in....

steel mesh? interesting idea,....on the outside of the windows or inside, either way I see it as getting very hot, wouldn't that transmit heat??
Painted white??

I've several sets of the Stanley doors that have been up for over 15 years without rust or jamb damage. They are all covered by at least 5 ft of overhang to prevent rain runoff.
I also have 1 that is only covered by a 16" overhang and the frame legs are rotted, but the door is okay. Stanley warrants against rust for 10 years. Ho chipboard in the doors I used, wooded outer frame foam center and metal clad.

The best door I put in for a customer was a fiberglass door and frame, warranted for 40 years or something silly, but it started at over a grand for a basic prehung ugly door.


The ss mesh is just like window tint, put on the same way, so fine you can't even see the mesh. Does not wear out like normal tint.

How does the mesh look from outside?? never seen it that Iknow of...