I messed some more with my carb and dizzy....

mrvette said:
Only spot I ever use RTV on intakes is on the water passages, and RTV on the bolts so to stop weeping from the water/oil passages....

:crutches:
Click to expand...

Felpro and Edelbrock gaskets work good. I use Gaskacinch to glue them to the heads to prevent shifting. A thin blue bead of RTV around the water passages like Gene said, a 1/4" bead on the china walls, and a good goop in the 4 corners for good measure. Clean China walls good with brake kleener, ANY oil,and the RTV won't stick. I use thread sealer on bolts. I don't care for RTV on them. It can fall in when removing. Permatex makes a nice teflon thread sealant.
I used to have trouble with shifting before using Gaskacinch. No more. Good stuff.
Slip the dizzy in before torquing to check for binding.
Barry K had a nice write up with pics.
I know you know all this. We all need reminding now and then.
 
Everyone seems to have this covered but just for fun when you re-start it leave all the vacuum accessories disconnect and plugged. Only the vacuum advance connected. If you have any leaks then it will run fine. If not it won't make any difference when you reconnect them. If you had a vac leak the idle would be challenging unless you already have a big cam (12 or less in hg)

I think (my opinion) you have some plug wires crossed either directly or indirectly (cross fire) or melted way down under the engine. The engine can idle fine and you can tune the carb in the driveway great. Once you put a load on it it will run like poop. Seems Ford distributors turn the other direction and once I had FOUR wires on the wrong posts and it ran like a champ with no load in neutral. Put it in park and it would rattle your brain out.
 
A reminder is always a good thing.

I used a very thin layer of RTV (same stuff I used on the china walls) to keep the gasket from shifting - works fine if you don't overdo it with the RTV....

I have not found anything wrong when taking the intake off... this means IF the next assembly is successful we still won't know what was wrong....

I also have the dizzy parts on order :thumbs:
 
pcf_mark said:
I think (my opinion) you have some plug wires crossed either directly or indirectly (cross fire) or melted way down under the engine. The engine can idle fine and you can tune the carb in the driveway great. Once you put a load on it it will run like poop. Seems Ford distributors turn the other direction and once I had FOUR wires on the wrong posts and it ran like a champ with no load in neutral. Put it in park and it would rattle your brain out.
Click to expand...

I am very afraid to find crossed wires caused me to disassemble two carbs, remove the intake and mess around with this for almost two weeks....

No, I would not be embarrassed ... :smash::smash::smash:
 
MYBAD79 said:
A reminder is always a good thing.

I used a very thin layer of RTV (same stuff I used on the china walls) to keep the gasket from shifting - works fine if you don't overdo it with the RTV....

I have not found anything wrong when taking the intake off... this means IF the next assembly is successful we still won't know what was wrong....
Click to expand...

If you get it back together, and it's fine, it was the gasket. When you glue them in good, it rips apart so bad upon disassembly, it can be very hard to tell what was wrong.
 
MYBAD79 said:
A reminder is always a good thing.

I used a very thin layer of RTV (same stuff I used on the china walls) to keep the gasket from shifting - works fine if you don't overdo it with the RTV....

I have not found anything wrong when taking the intake off... this means IF the next assembly is successful we still won't know what was wrong....

I also have the dizzy parts on order :thumbs:
Click to expand...

When I had my intake leaking on the bottom edge, the oil stained the blue color darker on the bottom edge of the Felpro gaskets....that and the bottom of the head passages were damp with oil....

:beer:
 
Just to make sure and satisfy my own curiosity: Here's the gap between intake and head mating surface with a .070" feeler gauge : it is parallel....
.

214a39a8a990cc3.jpg
.

214a39a7c161675.jpg
 
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It's sitting on .070" shims on the corners. The bolt holes almost line up. The current plan is: I'll try using a standard .060" intake gasket (MRG 101) and elongate the holes in the intake slightly to make them fit.
 
MYBAD79 said:
It's sitting on .070" shims on the corners. The bolt holes almost line up. The current plan is: I'll try using a standard .060" intake gasket (MRG 101) and elongate the holes in the intake slightly to make them fit.
Click to expand...

Take the shims out, set it on, and measure the manifold to the china walls.
 
Just to be sure, we are talking part # 7501 (manifold) that uses Gask #7201 , .060" (Gasket)?
 
One more item. WITH the .060" gasket in place, and the manny just resting there, insert the dizzy and see it it seats all the way down. You should NOT be able to insert a feeler gauge. If so, you need to shim it till it does not with nylon shims, and THEN add a gasket.
AND, if you really want to be perfect, coat the gear with prussian bluing, and spin the crank a few times to see where the gear ends up riding.
 
MYBAD79 said:
It's sitting on .070" shims on the corners. The bolt holes almost line up. The current plan is: I'll try using a standard .060" intake gasket (MRG 101) and elongate the holes in the intake slightly to make them fit.
Click to expand...

I remember doing that in your pix there some years ago, with the original set of iron heads I had on this engine, they were angle milled heads, it turned out, so they did never seal on the bottom of the Edel intake, until it was shaved 20 mills/side changing IT's angle to agree better, I never found it with the feeler gauge, dunno why, just was....drove me crazy for a while, finally just had it done and everything was fine then, now when going with either set of aluminum heads, using the exact same mani did NOT give my any leakage on top of it, never did have any issue with bolts lining up or gasket thickness....

if your China wall leaks a bit on a install, I have a little trick to fix that with, sure worked for me some time ago...

:smash::surrender:
 
OK, I used a .060" gasket and the distributor sits all the way down. I then added the gasket.

I did not find anything wrong so I just cleaned up everything and reassembled with a new thinner gasket and fresh RTV on the china walls... the holes line up better than with the old manifold - I did not have to elongate them to fit the thinner gasket.

Test run is scheduled for tomorrow....
 
MYBAD79 said:
OK, I used a .060" gasket and the distributor sits all the way down. I then added the gasket.

I did not find anything wrong so I just cleaned up everything and reassembled with a new thinner gasket and fresh RTV on the china walls... the holes line up better than with the old manifold - I did not have to elongate them to fit the thinner gasket.

Test run is scheduled for tomorrow....
Click to expand...

Look at the bright side. The dizzy will be happier now.;)
 
Been watching this thread on the dizzy height aspect of this install....
how much variance is allowed in the dizzy on that cam???

I have a suspicion on the oiling for the drivers side due to dizzy setting too high...

anyone??

:fishing:
 
mrvette said:
Been watching this thread on the dizzy height aspect of this install....
how much variance is allowed in the dizzy on that cam???

I have a suspicion on the oiling for the drivers side due to dizzy setting too high...

anyone??

:fishing:
Click to expand...

For the oil passage? I would imagine as long as the passage way is blocked off top and bottom, a-okay. Probably as much as 1/4" would survive. My concern would be insufficient purchase of the oil pump drive extension. Too little with a high volume pump and "snap."
 
If your not done Karsten, put a groove in the dizzy housing from the oil passage down to the gear with a triangular file. .010" is fine. Also, check all plug wire resistence. Should all be within about 20% of each other. (X ohms pre foot).
 
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