I need help...

mrvette said:
Oh don't be ragging no Mopar now, damnit....
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Well, I thought chevy and ford had some cheap junk, but those old mopars...dang!! They set a whole new level! A pressed paper fuse box cover/glove box liner? WTF? No loom on wire anywhere, and then the genius who has exhaust bolt thread into head coolant jackets?? Those cars are JUNK :) :suicide:
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Well, I thought chevy and ford had some cheap junk, but those old mopars...dang!! They set a whole new level! A pressed paper fuse box cover/glove box liner? WTF? No loom on wire anywhere, and then the genius who has exhaust bolt thread into head coolant jackets?? Those cars are JUNK :) :suicide:
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SHIT, Dr. Crank....wanna see something STUPID????

how about the much vaunted MERCEDES using wheel BOLTS to hold the rims on one of their highly pushed/thought of/touted POS cars some years ago.....fucking BOLTS into the flange...so when you mount the wheel you had to somehow hold that POS into exact postion to get the bolts lined up.....

on the roadside changing a FLAT???


right there and that funky suspension designs under that POS I tossed my hands in the air with total laughter.....thinking that if THAT was a highly thought of CAR, hate to hear anyone with an ounce of common sense' opinion.....

been some years, hopefully someone with common sense changed it around again....but wouldn't surprise me it's still the same.....

I call it institutionalized stupidity....


'we have allways done it backwards, so why not? it works, just drive in reverse'......

:yahoo::yahoo::crutches:
 
Most european cars use M12x1.5 tapered seat bolts. The wheels are usually hub centric so that holds them in place, turn them to align the bolt holes and drive them home with the impact. On the roadside...LOL use that handy spanner :D

What suspension front or rear? McPherson struts?
 
Good news

I drove the truck today and the temp gauge is working fine. Evidently the reset I did on the computer fixed the problem (I hope). I'll keep an eye on it though. Stoopid damn computers :skeptic:
 
DJ Dep said:
I drove the truck today and the temp gauge is working fine. Evidently the reset I did on the computer fixed the problem (I hope). I'll keep an eye on it though. Stoopid damn computers :skeptic:
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Stoopid computers...HELL, they only do what YOU tell them.....

:mime:
 
mrvette said:
Stoopid computers...HELL, they only do what YOU tell them.....

:mime:
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Even sender gauges are multi-tasking nowadays. Instead of just reading out the temp they are telling the engine how fast to idle and all kinds of crap.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Most european cars use M12x1.5 tapered seat bolts. The wheels are usually hub centric so that holds them in place, turn them to align the bolt holes and drive them home with the impact. On the roadside...LOL use that handy spanner :D

What suspension front or rear? McPherson struts?
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Cant speak to what you all got in Europe, but that damn Merc wheel did NOT stay on any center flange, and did appear to be lug centric as the bolt heads were tapered to go on like standard lug nutz....

what I witnessed was something totally bizzzzzzzzare.....only could have been made in France, I wuld have thought.....


I think it was the rear, been a LONG tyme ago...the rear shocks/struts into a solid? axel were tipped forward? at a 45* angle .....something totally off the wall....I don't remember the front at all....Quick glance as some sedan from 20 years ago....wife/kids mom had pulled out going for the big D, so in the evenings I would go by an old haunt for dinner with a old buddy and then do car work at the gas station we all used to hang out at decades earlier...

very strange existance, growing up in Wash DC much less sticking aroung 53 years there....honestly, I regret it now....:(



I remember helping my buddy put that wheel on as it was on the lift, and just astounded at the stupid design, with NO WAY, NO FLANGE to hold that wheel in place...nuttin....:sweat::stirpot:
 
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DJ Dep said:
Even sender gauges are multi-tasking nowadays. Instead of just reading out the temp they are telling the engine how fast to idle and all kinds of crap.
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Yep. I pulled the pow window switches. They all say motorola, and are mutiplexed with cat 3 thru the whole car. Fly by wire the truck is.:mad:
 
big2bird said:
Yep. I pulled the pow window switches. They all say motorola, and are mutiplexed with cat 3 thru the whole car. Fly by wire the truck is.:mad:
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What that essentially does for the consumer is force the purchase of another car, meaning the lower classes will not be able to afford a vechicle of any type, the working stiffs will take it up the ass but good not only on gasoline prices, but repair/junk prices will skyrocket as the computers will no longer be made at some point, when that happens the vechicle is forced off the road by design...they found the key to that, something the .gov wants, and the industry want also...to force the sale of new vechicles....

after working on that '98 S10 pickup for family there, bought for 1800 bux, on a truck supposedly worth 3400 bux according to NADA retail guide anyway, the thing had a computer related battery drain....had a computer for the truck body up under/behind the glove box can't even see it just the connector...about 50 wires.....glad he had crank windows.....anyway I rewired the ten amp fuse feeding it under the hood fuse block, jumpered it to an ignition source....have to wait untill the silly chimes ding after the key is on now, to boot up the body controll computer takes about 5 seconds....

stupid fix, I know, but certain crap not worth fucking with, and we pulled all the lightbulbs outta there so it's not that.....
 
It's weird with you guys ragging on Mopar and Chrysler. I've got a 2005 Dodge Durango and it's one of the most reliable cars I've ever owned. You've all heard me mention before that no one gives a rat's arse about speed limits out here and if you DON'T drive fast, then you'll get hit from behind. My Dodge has 43,000km on it now and I drive it hard pretty much every day - cruise to work at 140kph or more - and that thing hasn't given me an ounce of trouble. Nearly ready for new brake pads that the Dodge Service Center want a fortune to replace, but no other probs...
 
These newer Chevy instrument clusters are known to be very sensitive to a weak battery. Months before the battery dies the gauges act funny.... had this happen on my Z28 and the new battery fixed it. Maybe your new battery wasn't fully charged when you got it ? Maybe after driving for a while the alt charged it ???
BTW, when my fuel gauge died I found it cheaper to buy a complete instrument cluster on Ebay or www.car-parts.com than buying a new gauge and f*ing up the cluster trying to replace one gauge.... I paid $60 for a used cluster and it works fine. Your '04 Silverado cluster is about $80-$240 on Ebay, looks like the cheaper 01-02 model is different, 03 thru 06 seem to be the same. Just in case it's not fixed....
 
My clock started to malfunction so I assumed the battery was crapping out. The OBDII reset seems to have cured the problem as the temp gauge is working great. And the clock is right on the money. I charged the battery before installing it. But there was some sparking when I was connecting the positive cable. So that may have scrambled something.
 
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