Internal Body Aerodynamics
- Thread starter vette427sbc
- Start date
phantomjock
Well-known member
AI -- I gotta just crawl the InterWeb...
Here is a useful graphic from Dr. ING S.F. Hoerner. Compares the aft section drag coefficients that (by analogy) fit the Corvette (a bit):
Found that version in Japan.
Now this from Sophia University FSAE team (in Japan) shows using an Air Curtain (well, really a splitter End Plate) to influence underbody downforce:
Me LIKE! I COPY this!
Cheers - Jim
Here is a useful graphic from Dr. ING S.F. Hoerner. Compares the aft section drag coefficients that (by analogy) fit the Corvette (a bit):
Found that version in Japan.
Now this from Sophia University FSAE team (in Japan) shows using an Air Curtain (well, really a splitter End Plate) to influence underbody downforce:
Me LIKE! I COPY this!
Cheers - Jim
rtj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2011
- Messages
- 3,141
I’m assuming YouTube uses AI. If you create an account and login, it remembers your search/watch history. Then, whenever you open or refresh the main page it recommends videos. I get a lot of newly released videos that way.
phantomjock
Well-known member
NAHH - It's the NSA, just baiting us...
I do get a heap of music loaded that way. Just guessed it was some tracking of "favorites" algorithm. Guess that qualifies as AI. I thought maybe you had a search engine squired away.
I do get a heap of music loaded that way. Just guessed it was some tracking of "favorites" algorithm. Guess that qualifies as AI. I thought maybe you had a search engine squired away.
phantomjock
Well-known member
Under-Hood Internal Aerodynamics
"Return with us now..."
One way to lower internal drag would be keep the air out of the engine bay. With a "boxed radiator" to improve its flow, vented outside the engine bay, there would still be air from underneath the engine to eliminate. An oversized "Skid Plate" could help - but heat in the bay still a concern.
With louvers, air could be pulled from the bay - at speed, but some fan setup would be needed when stopped. Digital temp gauges are pretty cheap, as are some stainless steel louvers.
If you're into electronics the fan(s) could be setup to run at a set temp.
Seems like a worthy experiment. I'll put it on my ever growing list of 2-Dos.
Hi Ho Silver!
"Return with us now..."
One way to lower internal drag would be keep the air out of the engine bay. With a "boxed radiator" to improve its flow, vented outside the engine bay, there would still be air from underneath the engine to eliminate. An oversized "Skid Plate" could help - but heat in the bay still a concern.
With louvers, air could be pulled from the bay - at speed, but some fan setup would be needed when stopped. Digital temp gauges are pretty cheap, as are some stainless steel louvers.
If you're into electronics the fan(s) could be setup to run at a set temp.
Seems like a worthy experiment. I'll put it on my ever growing list of 2-Dos.
Hi Ho Silver!
vette427sbc
Well-known member
With my plan to "belly pan" my car, I have thought alot about a sealed engine compartment and the heat generated by headers and such... The louvers are a good idea but like you said only work at speed. Temperature operated fans are a good idea, but something powerful enough to move enough air is going to be heavy (and where to mount it??) Im going to experiment with some simple vents in the hood to see if the natural tendency of hot air to rise will self evacuate and keep underhood temps reasonable.
All thoughts that wont happen for another year considering the current state of my car though :skeptic:
phantomjock
Well-known member
Ditto, my friend. But I think at last I'm settling in on a wheel tire combo. So soon a "roller."
I'm gonna try the pan under engine - and thermostat fan(s). Also want to Jet-Hot the headers too - may push some heat out of the bay and down the tailpipe - so they say...:search:
Cheers - Jim
phantomjock
Well-known member
On second look - what are they trying to accomplish? Load the inside tire - makes sense, roll the chassis to help that effort - makes sense, but there must be simpler means - thinking the Porsche dual rear elements - (I owe a post of that too.)
But in any case -- That is WILD
But I already said: WHUT! when I saw this one:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wmp4I0pShY&list=PL5_EsQr7eMvFJQuZm2i3Ba1_JDUrB6-hy&index=8[/ame]
It works - in spite of being sort of "Red Neck" aluminum siding?
Gotta' have that canard steer for real effect.
Cheers - Jim
But in any case -- That is WILD
But I already said: WHUT! when I saw this one:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wmp4I0pShY&list=PL5_EsQr7eMvFJQuZm2i3Ba1_JDUrB6-hy&index=8[/ame]
It works - in spite of being sort of "Red Neck" aluminum siding?
Gotta' have that canard steer for real effect.
Cheers - Jim
Last edited:
phantomjock
Well-known member
so here are some of the ones I owe -
Porsche 908 -
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNor06VRwJQ[/ame]
and about half way through this video they get some track time:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QT1Aj5bu9t8[/ame]
ARDUINO anyone?
Cheers - Jim
Porsche 908 -
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNor06VRwJQ[/ame]
and about half way through this video they get some track time:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QT1Aj5bu9t8[/ame]
ARDUINO anyone?
Cheers - Jim
phantomjock
Well-known member
Revisit the early C3s
Here is something that has been brewing a while in the "eco-mod" world. Finally making mainstream:
Ready for the 68-77 mods?
In fact could be better flow than the GM 78 that has some areas of "less than optimum," given over for "style."
Cheers - Jim
Here is something that has been brewing a while in the "eco-mod" world. Finally making mainstream:
Ready for the 68-77 mods?
In fact could be better flow than the GM 78 that has some areas of "less than optimum," given over for "style."
Cheers - Jim
vette427sbc
Well-known member
Regarding Jim's thought on venting the engine compartment with a "boxed radiator" ...
Oddly enough I had two new trucks in my shop with the front grilles removed, both had active aero grille shudders. I didnt have any time to test them electronically, but watching their movement my guess is that they are controlled with stepper motors. Using a engine compartment temp sensor and a vehicle speed sensor, a simple code could be written to control the shudder position. For a full belly pan'd car Im picturing this unit being mounted directly under the engine.
At high speeds, but low load (ie: highway cruising) the vents could be totally closed for max efficiency. As load and heat increase the vents could open at the rear to vent the underhood air. And low speeds (traffic, or low speed autocross maybe?) where the engine compartment temp is high from lack of airflow, the vents could be opened to create a ram-air effect.
Surely this could be implemented anywhere on the car, but this is where my head is at currently :shocking:
Oddly enough I had two new trucks in my shop with the front grilles removed, both had active aero grille shudders. I didnt have any time to test them electronically, but watching their movement my guess is that they are controlled with stepper motors. Using a engine compartment temp sensor and a vehicle speed sensor, a simple code could be written to control the shudder position. For a full belly pan'd car Im picturing this unit being mounted directly under the engine.
At high speeds, but low load (ie: highway cruising) the vents could be totally closed for max efficiency. As load and heat increase the vents could open at the rear to vent the underhood air. And low speeds (traffic, or low speed autocross maybe?) where the engine compartment temp is high from lack of airflow, the vents could be opened to create a ram-air effect.
Surely this could be implemented anywhere on the car, but this is where my head is at currently :shocking:
