Long Overdue Progress! Making New Door Panels 12/8/24

Took the bushing out and the inside bore is tapered like an hourglass.

46191aecc50c63.jpg

It is not optimal but, if I use the bushings as is, extend the lower mount and install without side load at ride height, I should be OK. I need to stop making a project out of everything with this car :banghead:

The next issue is raising the spring mounts so that I can lower the rear 1 inch. I can't get to ride height with them as is. My next project.
 
Thought I would take a look at C4 rear shocks to see if this had been corrected. The shocks are the same but the top mount is turned 90 degrees from the bottom mount:

C4-Suspension-Service-23-Medium.jpg

C4-Suspension-Service-19-Medium.jpg
 
You might be able to lower the car with longer bolts. I used C4 spring bolts as it seems all the repop hd springs have too much arch. They are pretty cheap compared to ordering grade 8 bolts if I remember correctly.

You might find a shock with just a thin lower rod that will fix your clearance issue. That might be easier in the long run.

Just a random pick, but something like this https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bils...wxbC_Woj6rdiq8eFeIxQZOj9LGHELIBhoCW-kQAvD_BwE


I seem to remember with Tom’s offset ta’s, I disconnected the spring and put the ta on blocks. After clearancing 1/8 in I was able to wiggle them in from the backside of the lower mount. Your photo shows them on the front side of the mount where it is a lot tighter.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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rtj said:
You might be able to lower the car with longer bolts. I used C4 spring bolts as it seems all the repop hd springs have too much arch. They are pretty cheap compared to ordering grade 8 bolts if I remember correctly.

You might find a shock with just a thin lower rod that will fix your clearance issue. That might be easier in the long run.

Just a random pick, but something like this https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bils...wxbC_Woj6rdiq8eFeIxQZOj9LGHELIBhoCW-kQAvD_BwE

I seem to remember with Tom’s offset ta’s, I disconnected the spring and put the ta on blocks. After clearancing 1/8 in I was able to wiggle them in from the backside of the lower mount. Your photo shows them on the front side of the mount where it is a lot tighter.

Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

The bolts I have are 8" long. I'm good in the front but the rear (at ride height) is too close to the rim. So raising the spring is my only option.
 
BBShark said:
rtj said:
You might be able to lower the car with longer bolts. I used C4 spring bolts as it seems all the repop hd springs have too much arch. They are pretty cheap compared to ordering grade 8 bolts if I remember correctly.

You might find a shock with just a thin lower rod that will fix your clearance issue. That might be easier in the long run.

Just a random pick, but something like this https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bils...wxbC_Woj6rdiq8eFeIxQZOj9LGHELIBhoCW-kQAvD_BwE

I seem to remember with Tom’s offset ta’s, I disconnected the spring and put the ta on blocks. After clearancing 1/8 in I was able to wiggle them in from the backside of the lower mount. Your photo shows them on the front side of the mount where it is a lot tighter.

Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

The bolts I have are 8" long. I'm good in the front but the rear (at ride height) is too close to the rim. So raising the spring is my only option.
Click to expand...

Okay, hard to visualize.
 
rtj said:
BBShark said:
rtj said:
You might be able to lower the car with longer bolts. I used C4 spring bolts as it seems all the repop hd springs have too much arch. They are pretty cheap compared to ordering grade 8 bolts if I remember correctly.

You might find a shock with just a thin lower rod that will fix your clearance issue. That might be easier in the long run.

Just a random pick, but something like this https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bils...wxbC_Woj6rdiq8eFeIxQZOj9LGHELIBhoCW-kQAvD_BwE

I seem to remember with Tom’s offset ta’s, I disconnected the spring and put the ta on blocks. After clearancing 1/8 in I was able to wiggle them in from the backside of the lower mount. Your photo shows them on the front side of the mount where it is a lot tighter.

Just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

The bolts I have are 8" long. I'm good in the front but the rear (at ride height) is too close to the rim. So raising the spring is my only option.
Click to expand...

Okay, hard to visualize.
Click to expand...

the 'cheap' way of fixing the spring width is cut 2" off, move the lower spring over, redrill the centering hole and drill a new bolt hole. The stock C3 spring is in the way of wider wheels - so even if you use offset trailing arms or relocate the e-brake brackets, the spring will hit the rim - this is especially true if you lower the car with longer bolts.
 
That works with a steel spring. I have a composite spring.

I can raise the spring 1" by making new mounts. That's next.

item_40586.jpg
 
Thinking more about this, I might have installed the shocks before the half shafts and lower link. It was a puzzle for sure, but I see I only trimmed off 1/8 in. I have similar shocks to yours. I did trim the blue rubber boot.
 
I finally have the shocks installed. I made a 1/2-20 threaded sleeve that threads onto the lower mount. This centered the shock on the mount and clearance between the shock and everything else is good.

Now to fix the spring mount issue.

As is:
4619fb44cc791a.jpg

Sleeve Installed
4619fb44ca9d4a.jpg

Shock Installed
4619fb44c8cfa2.jpg
 
I was able to move the spring mount pivot down about 1" by making new brackets. Old VBP mount on the left and new on right. This moves the spring UP an 1" and also moves the end of the spring UP 1" and gives me clearance to the inside of the wheel. It was maybe 1/8" clearance before.......not good.


461b27b448d4eb.jpg

item_40586.jpg
 
Uh-oh. Started the car to do some tuning and it wasn't running right. Rough idle, etc. I tried to adjust the IAC but I was doing it blind because you don't see sensor values until temp reaches 160 (Holley HP EFI). So eventually the car stalled an wouldn't re-start.

I check for spark-OK. Checked the fuel rail for pressure and got 8psi! Looks like I found a new project.

Good news is that I got the rear spring in. So, one step forward and one step back.
 
BBShark said:
Uh-oh. Started the car to do some tuning and it wasn't running right. Rough idle, etc. I tried to adjust the IAC but I was doing it blind because you don't see sensor values until temp reaches 160 (Holley HP EFI). So eventually the car stalled an wouldn't re-start.

I check for spark-OK. Checked the fuel rail for pressure and got 8psi! Looks like I found a new project.

Good news is that I got the rear spring in. So, one step forward and one step back.
Click to expand...


Trying to find the problem and started with checking pressure at the pump (line going into the filter). Deadheaded, the pressure is 10psi. Not good

I have an in tank pump so now I will need to remove the exhaust and drop the tank. Also not good

45b21843151980.jpg

This is a brand new Delphi pump that has minutes of run time on it. I have one of these in my 97 Tahoe. It's the factory pump 25 years later!

However, on the bright side, the car is sitting on it's wheels (no jack stands) for the first time in ~15 years.
 
Okay, I've got a guess. I had this happen to me on my 99 Tahoe a few months ago. I had low pressure (8 psi) so I changed the pump (new Delphi). I reused the semi flexible connector between the pump and the discharge tube. It looked fine, and the new pump had a hard rubber connector that was a little small for the tube size. I still only had 8 psi, so I dropped the tank again. It took me a while to find it, but the connector had a small slit on the inside diameter that you could not see from the outside. It was dumping the pressure. Changed the connector and the problem was solved. You may not have exactly the same problem, but I would check the connection between the pump and the discharge tube (above the pump) for any possible leaks or sealing problems. Good luck.
 
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That's probably it, an internal leak. The motor sounds like it always did (it runs for 5 seconds before starting). I will work on removing the tank this weekend.

When I bought the pump, I did a lot of checking because I didn't want to drop the tank because I bought a cheap pump. The Delphi pump was recommended and it was expensive. Maybe I will look for a NOS GM pump.
 
OK. Got the engine started and a redo of all the engine parameters and basic tune for the fuel injection. The suspension is complete except for ride height (it's close). I need to re-hang the exhaust and some other minor stuff but it's basically drivable.

Next will be the interior and I need to troubleshoot an engine noise that sounds like a valve lash issue.
 
BBShark said:
OK. Got the engine started and a redo of all the engine parameters and basic tune for the fuel injection. The suspension is complete except for ride height (it's close). I need to re-hang the exhaust and some other minor stuff but it's basically drivable.

Next will be the interior and I need to troubleshoot an engine noise that sounds like a valve lash issue.
Click to expand...

Excellent!
 
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