Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
dynas are way too small. He has C4 susp. Easiest way is a J55 setup (13x1.1), already has all the alu shafts
aluy bodies shocks???
aluy bodies shocks???
Near future project: Aluminum radiator support
- Thread starter 69427
- Start date
turtlevette
The Turdle
Yep, we'll have the caliper size debate some other time. Big=bling but not a whole lot of gain for the weight increase.
MIni starter
lightweight wheels
remove radio
remove carpet
lightweight seats
lightweight power steering pump
run without tops
aluminum transmission crossmember
fabricate inner door panels them suckers are heavy. I think they absorb moisture over the years.
I believe there is a steel crossmember in the rear that is redundant. beejay cut his out.
Last edited:
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
lightweight PS pump is easy, get a C4 alu pump...lightweight plastic reservoir...done
His tranny is held up by an alu C beam
Beejay cut his rear crossmember because he converted to a late C3 batwing, that's why he could remove it.
His tranny is held up by an alu C beam
Beejay cut his rear crossmember because he converted to a late C3 batwing, that's why he could remove it.
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
I'm still thinking that one over. At the moment I'm more comfortable having something tie the two side rails together other than the batwing. I'll have to do some FBD/statics work on the idea. (Old picture.)
I'm using the Dynalites all around, along with 11.75" rotors to fit under the stock C3 wheels. Been to several track days, and I'm very happy with the performance and pad longevity. (Photo during initial assembly.)
I'm using the small body Bilsteins, which are pretty light. I don't know the weight of others in aluminum. Packaging is tight, and I don't know if the aluminum shocks use bigger diameter springs.
I haven't had the opportunity to weigh the car since I left Orlando. With an eighth tank of fuel and no driver (and the rear bumpers off until I can find the brackets, another casualty of the move), the car was 2910 pounds. I've taken another 45-50 pounds out since (seats and brackets, p/s pump, radiator support, F-car hollow bar, stolen lightweight 17# battery out of my garden tractor, and a couple other things), so once I get the rear bumpers back on (for a stock appearance) I think I will be at about 2885 pounds. For autocrossing I take off the tops and rear window for an additional 32 pounds off. Road courses I leave them on, and run an additional 5-6 gallons of fuel to last the session.
Last edited:
turtlevette
The Turdle
Me too, I don't know where Marck gets the idea that they're "way too small"
The panels covering the inside of the doors are of the thick carboard looking crap. They seem way heavy for just making things pretty. I wonder if they can be hogged out a bit.
You didn't comment on a thin al hood.
It won't be long before there's nothing left unless you really want to start gutting it and you don't.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Could try compressed helium for fluids, and hydrogen for fuel,
and in my case looooose a foot in height and 70 lbs in weight....
but that 400 lbs weight reduction over my car at a stockish 3300 lbs, is a LOT, and so I wonder just what my '72 vert really actually weighed to start with, my only comment on the body is, that the fender flares seem very thick on the inside, compared to a stock later shark, but I can't figger more than 20 lbs for the plastic...
I noted the replacement rad support was a LOT lighter/thinner steel than the OEM part, even with 1/2 of it missing....and so I drilled drain holes in the lower rear down lo, to let the water go....
this is an interesting project in that I have to say my feeble attempts at weight reduction are not very successful ....
:hissyfit:
and in my case looooose a foot in height and 70 lbs in weight....
but that 400 lbs weight reduction over my car at a stockish 3300 lbs, is a LOT, and so I wonder just what my '72 vert really actually weighed to start with, my only comment on the body is, that the fender flares seem very thick on the inside, compared to a stock later shark, but I can't figger more than 20 lbs for the plastic...
I noted the replacement rad support was a LOT lighter/thinner steel than the OEM part, even with 1/2 of it missing....and so I drilled drain holes in the lower rear down lo, to let the water go....
this is an interesting project in that I have to say my feeble attempts at weight reduction are not very successful ....
:hissyfit:
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
The dynalite are some of the smallest wilwood calipers. They are aimed for entry level aftermarket brake kits or for sports and light formula racing. Must be me but I prefer my calipers a little larger. The brembos I installed on the 91 vette, now those are stoppers. The diference with the stock is night and day
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Rotor size and pad area/pad flex but really what is gained for any given caliper design long as it puts the pressure on?? other than weight loss off a C3, obviously....??
:surrender:
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
Me too, I don't know where Marck gets the idea that they're "way too small"
I originally tried to use the Superlites, but I couldn't package them inside the stock C3 wheels due to the shallow rotor hat needed to clear the spindle knuckle.
The panels covering the inside of the doors are of the thick carboard looking crap. They seem way heavy for just making things pretty. I wonder if they can be hogged out a bit.
You didn't comment on a thin al hood. It's a Corvette. I gotta stick with fiberglass (or carbon fiber, if that ever got to be an economical possibility).
It won't be long before there's nothing left unless you really want to start gutting it and you don't.
Well, it is getting harder all the time. The upside is that every ounce gets to be a bigger percentage reduction as the car gets lighter.
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
This is it. Not sure what it's off of. My guess is some industrial equipment. I need to get the connector pinout.
Took some time off from more cerebral activities on the car, and cut out a replacement tensioner arm for the alternator.
The steel arm is 3/16" thick, but I used 1/4" for the aluminum piece. I cut the new piece a sixteenth inch wider on each side so I can tweak the shape once I try it on the engine. The new piece is 3.95 ounces lighter, and probably a full quarter pound once I finish the shape. I kicked around drilling some holes in the steel piece to lighten it, but the scrap piece for comparison in the picture is only 2.5 ounces, so it convinced me I was going to have to plasma cut/drill a good chunk of the arm to match the aluminum piece weight. The new arm feels sturdy, so I think I'll give it a try on the engine. Hopefully after a bit of sanding I can get some black paint to hide my slip up with the carbide bit. :crap:
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
Did some additional clearance grinding on the tensioner arm and painted it. Final weight was 5.50 ounces, 4 ounces less than the steel arm. This is in addition to the previous 21 ounce reduction with the change to an aluminum right side alternator mount.
I keep looking at the hood support bracket on the left side of the hood (up front, up high, left side weight). It would be easy to make something lighter, but to be honest, I am so impressed with the cleverness of the ratcheting design of that piece, and how well it works, that I would feel uncomfortable exchanging it for some crude stick thing, as it were. I like the telescoping feature of the thing, so I'm trying to come up with something that won't look conspiculously out of place there.
I keep looking at the hood support bracket on the left side of the hood (up front, up high, left side weight). It would be easy to make something lighter, but to be honest, I am so impressed with the cleverness of the ratcheting design of that piece, and how well it works, that I would feel uncomfortable exchanging it for some crude stick thing, as it were. I like the telescoping feature of the thing, so I'm trying to come up with something that won't look conspiculously out of place there.
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
Sweet. (I may reconsider my philosophy of trying to keep the new parts unnoticable to the casual observer.)
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
It's getting to be junkyard roaming season. What vehicles did a CS121 come on? Is there a tag or imprint that says CS121?
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
I think the CS121 is the same case as the CS130, they came on a lot of cars, f bodies being one of them. You'll need a pre 88 one if you want to be able to use a simple alternator bracket, the later ones are for the serpentine stuff and the case has a different mounting pattern.
This is a 47802 powermaster C130, 802 series...diff part # for chrome (if you want chrome, or black thermal dissipating paint ..or another option)
These are pretty lightweight indeed. Easy to recognise by the small plastic cap on the back edge.
This is a 47802 powermaster C130, 802 series...diff part # for chrome (if you want chrome, or black thermal dissipating paint ..or another option)
These are pretty lightweight indeed. Easy to recognise by the small plastic cap on the back edge.
Sam Cogley
Well-known member
I have to ask...why not go with the CS144 series over the CS130? Yes, it's a bit bigger, but it's also quite a bit tougher.
turtlevette
The Turdle
I thought the 121 means 121 mm and 130 means 130 mm, but i've been wrong before. Mine definitely looks smaller than any i've seen on an American product.
I tried googling applications someone said Pontiac Sunbird. Sounds like 90's era compacts.
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
Learned something new today, it's the stator diameter in mm.. thanks Jim 
so the 130 is bigger than the 121..the cases look similar in shape though.
so the 130 is bigger than the 121..the cases look similar in shape though.
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
Nine mm difference isn't much when eyeballing the alternator. Is the number (121) stamped into the housing anywhere?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
turtlevette
The Turdle
I tried looking at mine. I don't see any numbers. Take a ruler with.
The disadvantage of the 121 is it doesn't produce as much current at idle. I doubt you care about that.
