new stroker build

still trying to decide on a cam. any suggestions?
406 ci. 12.1 comp. Brodix IK200 heads http://www.brodix.com/heads/ik.php
flat top forged JE pistons.
I want to run solid roller cam.
4spd M21 trans. 3.70 gears
if you need more info let me know.
 
Last edited:
Make sure you get that cam (or whatever one you decide on) with a cast pressed on dizzy gear. Be a real bite to go thru all of this and then find out it eats dizzy gears. With all of the bronze, composite, steel and other goofy stuff they make them out of, nothing seems to be as reliable as the OEM.
 
TimAT said:
Make sure you get that cam (or whatever one you decide on) with a cast pressed on dizzy gear. Be a real bite to go thru all of this and then find out it eats dizzy gears. With all of the bronze, composite, steel and other goofy stuff they make them out of, nothing seems to be as reliable as the OEM.
Click to expand...

Good point to remember. thanks Tim.
I still have not decided on a cam yet, either the one i posted earlier,or a little bigger. I would like to get one with a little tighter LSA, 106 is what i would like to have.
 
Here are the specs on the solid roller cam i decided to go with.
lift is .592/.592
duration @50 is 252/260
lobe separation is 106*
I am getting it from Comp cams,and decided on Crower lifters.
It will have a steel dist gear pressed on it.
 
kwplot34 said:
Here are the specs on the solid roller cam i decided to go with.
lift is .592/.592
duration @50 is 252/260
lobe separation is 106*
I am getting it from Comp cams,and decided on Crower lifters.
It will have a steel dist gear pressed on it.
Click to expand...

You're going to hate starting this vehicle from a dead stop with that cam. With an M21 trans (2.20:1 first gear) and 3.70 gears, you don't have enough torque multiplication available to get going without a lot of clutch slipping. With this cam and that much duration and tight LSAs, vacuum will be very poor and you'll have to idle at about 1400 rpm.

A better choice would be a Lunati Voodoo solid roller (243/249/110):
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1993
I'm running one in my 406 and like it a lot!

:1st:
 
larrywalk said:
kwplot34 said:
Here are the specs on the solid roller cam i decided to go with.
lift is .592/.592
duration @50 is 252/260
lobe separation is 106*
I am getting it from Comp cams,and decided on Crower lifters.
It will have a steel dist gear pressed on it.
Click to expand...

You're going to hate starting this vehicle from a dead stop with that cam. With an M21 trans (2.20:1 first gear) and 3.70 gears, you don't have enough torque multiplication available to get going without a lot of clutch slipping. With this cam and that much duration and tight LSAs, vacuum will be very poor and you'll have to idle at about 1400 rpm.

A better choice would be a Lunati Voodoo solid roller (243/249/110):
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1993
I'm running one in my 406 and like it a lot!

:1st:
Click to expand...
It is a little bigger than the cam i have in my 388 right now,same 106* lobe separation. It idles about 1200 rpm. from a dead stop is not to bad,a little clutch slipping to get her rolling. Between my research,talking with my machinist and Chris at comp cams today,we decided this cam would be the best fit for my motor. It gives me the RPM range i wanted,and a very good power band around 1400 RPM.
 
according to what I've read/heard in books/internet/conversations the biggest commonly made mistake is to over-cam an engine ... fortunately future cam swaps are relatively simple with the two piece timing chain covers :D

If I had to do it again I'd very likely go with one of the Lunati Thumper cams.... lopey idle like a race car and driveable like a normal car.... best of both worlds IMO (for a street driven car) .....
 
MYBAD79 said:
according to what I've read/heard in books/internet/conversations the biggest commonly made mistake is to over-cam an engine ... fortunately future cam swaps are relatively simple with the two piece timing chain covers :D

If I had to do it again I'd very likely go with one of the Lunati Thumper cams.... lopey idle like a race car and driveable like a normal car.... best of both worlds IMO (for a street driven car) .....
Click to expand...

You are absolutely right,you can over cam an engine. This was not just a cam pulled out of the air based on numbers. compression ratio,heads,bore,tranny,gear ratio,weight of car,type of fuel etc,etc. all played into the equation.
You have to remember,this car is not a daily driver,never has been. This cam is not much bigger than whats in my 388 now and it is a roller cam.
 
Kevin, I don't know what your engine start-up/initial run-in plans are, but if you're interested I have a run stand available for loan under some dust in the barn. I've always done the first few minutes of engine running time on an engine stand. I'm just an amateur when it comes to engine building, and do it purely for the convenience in case I have to fix or re-do something prior to dropping it into the car. Here's an old picture (in Florida) when I was building the stand.

IM001467.jpg

I was running behind "schedule" trying to get the car running for an event in Indiana where I used to live, so I hauled the engine and stand with me to South Dakota on a family visit, worked on it there for a week, then down to KC where I fired up the engine in the barn (Pardon some of the crudities in the picture below. It was a mad scramble and I was short of some parts and supplies.) and ran it a while, then hauled it all back to Orlando to put the engine in the car.

IM001477.jpg
 
i might need to use your stand here in a few weeks. got the block back from the machine shop and i am putting it together,well i was,ran out of parts :hissyfit: this 409 should be a nice motor.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top