No turning back now

Now is the time to make sure it won't crack at the seam... loosen all the bolts that connect the bumper to the body, apply some adhesive between the parts, tighten all the bolts....now it's safe to assume it won't crack due to movement between the two parts....
 
Now is the time to make sure it won't crack at the seam... loosen all the bolts that connect the bumper to the body, apply some adhesive between the parts, tighten all the bolts....now it's safe to assume it won't crack due to movement between the two parts....

Good idea Karsten,i will do that next before any more body work.
Thanks :thumbs:
 
Dang it's been a while but i finally have a little more progress. All i have to say is,who's idea was it to install that 80-82 glass rear bumper on my 78 :goodnight:
Talk about a PIA,but it is on and in primer now,got the epoxy sprayed tonight and tomorrow i will spray the 2k primer/filler,and then all thats left is a little more sanding,and then i should be ready for paint.
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im doing my front bumper right now... besides some rusted bolts on the crash bar its not too bad... what kinda trouble did you run into? im doing my rear next so im curious
 
im doing my front bumper right now... besides some rusted bolts on the crash bar its not too bad... what kinda trouble did you run into? im doing my rear next so im curious

Problem i ran into.
the bumper bar was to high so i had to lower it 1/2"
the tail light bucket were 1 1/2" away from the tail light retainer that mounts on the steel bumper bar,screws go through the retainer into the bumper cover and secure a metal ring that the tail lights mount too. So i purchased 12 1/4x20x2" bolts, 2' of 1/2" dia steel tubing and 24 washers. I cut the tubing into 1 1/2" lengths,tack welded a washer to one end (so the tube would not cut through the fibreglass bumper) and trim to fit between the retainer and bumper cover,then i inserted one of the 2" screws through and tightened it down.
I had to cut out all the bumper mounting holes,the license plate bracket holes,emblem retaining holes.
A Dremel with a flex shaft and Roto Zip bit is your best friend for this.
Not to mention the bumper does not exactly line up with the rear quarter panels so a little filler work is needed.
 
Pulled the car outside today and scrubbed it down with some stuff from HOK called post sand cleaner it's like soap,then scrubbed down the garage and blew it out with the leaf blower.
Going to spend the weekend masking off the car,go over it a couple more times with wax and grease remover,hang new plastic sheeting in the garage,put it up on jack stands to get to those lower parts easier.

Monday or Tuesday i will go to the paint store and get my paint and clear coat and have at it.
Thats it,almost done :bounce:
 
Just a word of caution.........take it easy with the wax and grease remover.
At this stage of the game there shouldn't be any reason for either one to
still be around....those are solvent base contaminates. Your far more likely
to have a water base contaminate...like finger prints, sweat, dirt, etc which
can all be easily cleaned with soap and water.

Solvent Base cleaners will NOT remove Water Base contaminates and vise/versa.

A mistake that is often made is to too heavily wipe down a car before paint
with a wax & grease remover. If you don't then throughly wipe the car down
with a clean cloth and allow ample time for the cleaner itself to dry out of the
surface.....it will cause paint problems like fish-eyes.......you'll be standing
there saying......:huh: W-T-H ......I must not have used enough cleaner when in
fact........ you used too much. :clobbered:
 
Thats a good word of advice thank you John. Did you read my painting plan.

Here it is anyway. I am going to thin out my epoxy to like paint thickness,spray at least 2 coats,wait the time suggested on tech sheet to cover,then spray the base paint,and then the clear coat,and then set back and drink a beer,i could not find that on the tech sheet,But Karsten suggested that i do that,i wonder if i can have 2 :thumbs:

Those wipes that you use before painting,how many of those do you think i will need? and any warnings on their use?

Just because you don't own a vette anymore,you need to check in once in a while to keep us on the straight and narrow :)

Kevin

My sticker collection is building up once again also :wink:
 
:thumbs:

Sounds like a plan :).
Just be sure to save the beer till the job is done.
You need to be focused now more than ever.
I worked with a painter years ago that kept a cold one in the paint cabinet.
He tended to leave runs that required an Air File to knock down.

When wiping the car down just before paint with the cleaner.....just get the
cloth damp....not soaking wet. Remember...your not trying to WASH the car
at this point. Think of it as wiping the dust of with a damp rag....and in the
other hand have a clean cloth and immediately come behind the first wipe.
Don't let the cleaner sit on the surface any longer than necessary.
Using a new "clean" cloth on each panel would not be a bad idea.

TACK RAG.......take it out of the package and completely unfold / open it up.
Let it hang for 15 minutes or more to dry. It should not feel sticky when you
get ready to use it. If it is leaving any residue on your hands it is also leaving
it on the car.....which equals paint problems.
Be sure to tack the paper as well as the car. This is VERY important before
spraying your clear. All that base coat over spray is now trash waiting to
jump back into your paint job.

:thumbs:


One can never have too many stickers...:)
 
With everything I learned since I painted mine three years ago I wonder how much better I could do if I painted it again :nuts:

Base coat overspray jumping back onto the paintjob..... never thought about that.... I expected that overspray to stick to the paper.

Oh ... yes, drink the beer (as many as you want) after the job is done AND the fumes are gone....
 
Base coat overspray jumping back onto the paintjob..... never thought about that.... I expected that overspray to stick to the paper.

You would think it would......but remember the paper never gets "wet" except
at the edge next to the panels being painted. The overspray is almost dry
before it lands on the paper.......now it is just dust and your paintgun a big fan.
Next time tack your paper you'll be amazed at how much you wipe off. ;)
 
Well the car is all masked off,and on jack stands,i will hang the plastic for the paint booth tomorrow and go to the paint store. Then all thats left is to cross my fingers and pray,a lot,maybe a whole lot.
Stay tuned for pic's and maybe a little dramatic :cussing:
 
Well the car is all masked off,and on jack stands,i will hang the plastic for the paint booth tomorrow and go to the paint store. Then all thats left is to cross my fingers and pray,a lot,maybe a whole lot.
Stay tuned for pic's and maybe a little dramatic :cussing:
You'll be fine Kev. Because it's all "new" to you, you'll pay far more attention to detail and the result will be just fine! Can't wait to see the pics :thumbs:
 
uncharted territory......duda....duda.................dudadudadudaduaduda..:D
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Well the car is all masked off,and on jack stands,i will hang the plastic for the paint booth tomorrow and go to the paint store. Then all thats left is to cross my fingers and pray,a lot,maybe a whole lot.
Stay tuned for pic's and maybe a little dramatic :cussing:
You'll be fine Kev. Because it's all "new" to you, you'll pay far more attention to detail and the result will be just fine! Can't wait to see the pics :thumbs:

I am sure it will work out fine,hopefully not to many errors,but they can be fixed with a little sanding and more paint,Dang that paint is expensive,i spent $756 for a gal of paint,clear coat,and the hardener and reducer that goes with them :huh2:
I should be out in the garage spraying right now,but i am thinking about it little more before i have at it :sweat:

And yes very uncharted water for me.
 

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