BangkokDean
Well-known member
Just wondering how you know this........have you seen his pipes?:search:
Obx Headers/sidepipes
- Thread starter 6t8vert
- Start date
Just wondering how you know this........have you seen his pipes?:search:
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Belgian1979vette
Well-known member
:lol:. Come to think of it...a name like hooker and still a big name in the pipe business
MYBAD79
Moderator
One more thing we have not mentioned yet: no matter what brand sidepipes you buy, they look awesome and depending on the mufflers you choose they sound really great.... regardless, all of them will burn you and remove skin, that's not just some "ooops that's hot" kinda burn, it seriously hurts and will leave a scar...
please do.... looking forward to the photos :thumbs:
6t8vert
Member
Be here on 08/05/2010 (I hope)
:yahoo::yahoo:A small updat on the OBX headers. Got a shipping notice that I should expect to see them on 08/05. Coming from Cal to FL is about a week or so. A couple of things to share; I tried the "make Offer" on ebay and did manage to drop the price to $530. That with shipping is $650. Sounds like a lot for shipping but I calculated buying HKR's and for headers and sidepipes it was about $95.
The weight of the OBX according to UPS is approximately 76 pounds. I will take an actual weight once unboxed. I also bought a set of 21046HKR muffler inserts. (Was told by the OBX supplier that the OBX headers and pipes do not come with mufflers.) Picked them up on the bay on a Holley scratch and dent. They ran $93+$20 shipping. Their weight is 22 pounds. By the way I have already received the high flow mufflers. The only thing wrong with them is some black paint missing from the outside. Who cares, they go into a tube anyway. Best price I found for "new" ones were $177 plus shipping. So so far total cost is $761, and 98 pounds. :yahoo:
I will spend a little more for a good set of cooper header gaskets and I am sure for some small hardware. That should be the end of the cost unless I opt to get the ceramic coating on the headers. Verdict is still out on that. I hope by this weekend I'll have some pictures for you.
:yahoo::yahoo:A small updat on the OBX headers. Got a shipping notice that I should expect to see them on 08/05. Coming from Cal to FL is about a week or so. A couple of things to share; I tried the "make Offer" on ebay and did manage to drop the price to $530. That with shipping is $650. Sounds like a lot for shipping but I calculated buying HKR's and for headers and sidepipes it was about $95.
The weight of the OBX according to UPS is approximately 76 pounds. I will take an actual weight once unboxed. I also bought a set of 21046HKR muffler inserts. (Was told by the OBX supplier that the OBX headers and pipes do not come with mufflers.) Picked them up on the bay on a Holley scratch and dent. They ran $93+$20 shipping. Their weight is 22 pounds. By the way I have already received the high flow mufflers. The only thing wrong with them is some black paint missing from the outside. Who cares, they go into a tube anyway. Best price I found for "new" ones were $177 plus shipping. So so far total cost is $761, and 98 pounds. :yahoo:
I will spend a little more for a good set of cooper header gaskets and I am sure for some small hardware. That should be the end of the cost unless I opt to get the ceramic coating on the headers. Verdict is still out on that. I hope by this weekend I'll have some pictures for you.
MYBAD79
Moderator
I also used the copper head gaskets, Summit is a lot cheaper than the local store... think I paid $40 and Summit has them for $20....
The locking header bolts work great, brand name used to be Breslin and now it's Percy's ... I bought the stainless version (Summit)...
The locking header bolts work great, brand name used to be Breslin and now it's Percy's ... I bought the stainless version (Summit)...
6t8vert
Member
Went on the Summitt web site this morning and ordered the copper header gaskets. they ran $22 plus ship. I want to stay away from the paper gasket material. Alread had to change them out once befor on my current setup. :beer:
6t8vert
Member
Headers are here
Received the headers and they look just fine. Test fit the pipes to the headers and no concerns. They do not come with any hardware so you will need to design your own way of mounting the pipes to the side of the car. Also I recommend two sets of headers bolts. I found that going form a narrow with flange like on the Headmans to a 3/8 flange gobbles up bolt threads. You will still need the short bolts because I found one pile that was rather colse to the bolt hole on the flange and only a short will work.
The welds look good even it they are slightly discolored.
I test fit the copper header gaskets. no problems.
Received the headers and they look just fine. Test fit the pipes to the headers and no concerns. They do not come with any hardware so you will need to design your own way of mounting the pipes to the side of the car. Also I recommend two sets of headers bolts. I found that going form a narrow with flange like on the Headmans to a 3/8 flange gobbles up bolt threads. You will still need the short bolts because I found one pile that was rather colse to the bolt hole on the flange and only a short will work.
The welds look good even it they are slightly discolored.
I test fit the copper header gaskets. no problems.
6t8vert
Member
Question for you on the pipe inserts. The mufflers have a open laver . Which way do they go in or does it make a difference?
More to come, Have the passenger side header installed.
6t8vert
Member
Off with the old
First I needed to remove my Headman headers and Patriot sidepipes. Nothing wrong with them but I want the more aggressive looks of the HKR type headers.
On with the new, passenger side anyway
Passenger side; I also have an aftermarket a/c system so had to modify the brackets slightly to clear one of the pipes. Had to do the same thing with Headmans just did not have to remove quite as much material.
I put the remaining parts back on the passenger side. No issues with pligs, no special tool. Just used a regular spark plug socket and a 3/4 in wrench for the area's where an extension and ratched would not work. A a note, I have the Acell 9000 plug wires with stright ends, had to bend two of them to 90 degree other wils wiould most definately will burn on the headers. I will probably get the insolated spark plug boots just to be safe. Other than a slight modification of an aftermarket a/c bracket the passenger side went in just fine. Also both go in from the bottom. I don't have a lift but a floor jack and jackstands works just fine. The number 2 cyl inside bolt hole is where I had to use a short header bolt.
First I needed to remove my Headman headers and Patriot sidepipes. Nothing wrong with them but I want the more aggressive looks of the HKR type headers.
On with the new, passenger side anyway
Passenger side; I also have an aftermarket a/c system so had to modify the brackets slightly to clear one of the pipes. Had to do the same thing with Headmans just did not have to remove quite as much material.
I put the remaining parts back on the passenger side. No issues with pligs, no special tool. Just used a regular spark plug socket and a 3/4 in wrench for the area's where an extension and ratched would not work. A a note, I have the Acell 9000 plug wires with stright ends, had to bend two of them to 90 degree other wils wiould most definately will burn on the headers. I will probably get the insolated spark plug boots just to be safe. Other than a slight modification of an aftermarket a/c bracket the passenger side went in just fine. Also both go in from the bottom. I don't have a lift but a floor jack and jackstands works just fine. The number 2 cyl inside bolt hole is where I had to use a short header bolt.
6t8vert
Member
The driver side problem
Well I should have guessed the drivers side would be a challange. First make sure you remove everytyhing that can possible get in the way of the header install. I even removed the valve cover because I needed the clearance or angle to snake the new header in. Be VERY CARFUL of hitting and damaging the temp sender. Mine is located in the drivers head and it is a target for the headers. I did not remove it but just be careful or you will be. Also remove the z bar, manual transmission, and linkage.
:suicide:
One thing you realize very fast is that there is a lot less room on the drivers side. At first it would seem that everything is in the way. I put the headers on only to remove them about 5 times. I saw where the #1 tube is a problem It is in the way of the pitman arm. and a small part of the extension of the motot mount. Simple enough, I just used a BFH and fixed it. Well not so fast. seems it will need a little more fixing. and just to sweeten the agony, well the #7 pipe is in the way of the Z bar by about 3/8 inch. Again I will take off the headers and "modify" the area of concern. I'll get more photo's for the problem area's. I would guess at this point that these may have been for an automatic not a manual. Overall I am not disappointed with the headers. It is some work getting the drivers side in but I already checked plugs and a couple of other area's and there is no problem. Not sure when I'll get the header back off and work on it, I hope within the next couple of days. I get more phots and keep you posted.
Well I should have guessed the drivers side would be a challange. First make sure you remove everytyhing that can possible get in the way of the header install. I even removed the valve cover because I needed the clearance or angle to snake the new header in. Be VERY CARFUL of hitting and damaging the temp sender. Mine is located in the drivers head and it is a target for the headers. I did not remove it but just be careful or you will be. Also remove the z bar, manual transmission, and linkage.
:suicide:One thing you realize very fast is that there is a lot less room on the drivers side. At first it would seem that everything is in the way. I put the headers on only to remove them about 5 times. I saw where the #1 tube is a problem It is in the way of the pitman arm. and a small part of the extension of the motot mount. Simple enough, I just used a BFH and fixed it. Well not so fast. seems it will need a little more fixing. and just to sweeten the agony, well the #7 pipe is in the way of the Z bar by about 3/8 inch. Again I will take off the headers and "modify" the area of concern. I'll get more photo's for the problem area's. I would guess at this point that these may have been for an automatic not a manual. Overall I am not disappointed with the headers. It is some work getting the drivers side in but I already checked plugs and a couple of other area's and there is no problem. Not sure when I'll get the header back off and work on it, I hope within the next couple of days. I get more phots and keep you posted.
6t8vert
Member
They do not come with mufflers
Sorry I did not mean to mislead anyone, OBX headers do not come with muffler inserts. I bought those separately.:sweat:
Sorry I did not mean to mislead anyone, OBX headers do not come with muffler inserts. I bought those separately.:sweat:
elevatordude
Well-known member
I don't know if denting the pipe that much was a really good idea. It seems that the header was built wrong. My hookers are tight but they are not hitting.
There's a sentence I never thought I would say"my hookers are tight" I must have a strong pimp hand.
There's a sentence I never thought I would say"my hookers are tight" I must have a strong pimp hand.
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
Being stainless pipes, take it to a shop and have them weld a curved section in there. If you were close I'd do it for free but the price of shipping is a little high 
Seriously, that dent is a little too much, it will upset that cyl.
Seriously, that dent is a little too much, it will upset that cyl.
6t8vert
Member
I agree.
Well I'll mark the drivers side header at the problem area and then take down to a local racing shop that does stainless steel welding and have two new tubes adjusted and welded in. One is for the pitman arm in the way and the other is to put a slight curve in the rear tube so the z bar will go in. It is going to cost a little more for the re-work but overall still less expensive than the HKR's. I know I know you get what you pay for. I expected to have some issues so no rear big surprise just a PIA. By the way getting what you pay for?? Did you know that TREMEC transmissions are moving to Mexico and will be built there? Seems everything is going outside our boarder for manufacture. Well I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the suggestions. By the way, does anyone know which way the muffler inserts go in? Are the levars facing to the exit or the intake side of the side pipes? Hooker did not say one way or the other, no instructions with the mufflers. Maybe does not matter I don't know?
Well I'll mark the drivers side header at the problem area and then take down to a local racing shop that does stainless steel welding and have two new tubes adjusted and welded in. One is for the pitman arm in the way and the other is to put a slight curve in the rear tube so the z bar will go in. It is going to cost a little more for the re-work but overall still less expensive than the HKR's. I know I know you get what you pay for. I expected to have some issues so no rear big surprise just a PIA. By the way getting what you pay for?? Did you know that TREMEC transmissions are moving to Mexico and will be built there? Seems everything is going outside our boarder for manufacture. Well I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the suggestions. By the way, does anyone know which way the muffler inserts go in? Are the levars facing to the exit or the intake side of the side pipes? Hooker did not say one way or the other, no instructions with the mufflers. Maybe does not matter I don't know?
Last edited by a moderator:
redvetracr
Well-known member
Being stainless pipes, take it to a shop and have them weld a curved section in there. If you were close I'd do it for free but the price of shipping is a little high
If that dent was required to fit my car I would want to adjust someones head with that BFH or a 2X4....I see now that my built on the car headers were worth every penny.....I`m a bit confused how when you consider all 63-82 Corvette frames are basically the same and there were only two options for motors these don`t fit right out of the box? It`s not rocket science.....now where is that big mouth that told us all how great these OBX headers were?
68L71
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 13, 2008
- Messages
- 747
Being stainless pipes, take it to a shop and have them weld a curved section in there. If you were close I'd do it for free but the price of shipping is a little high
If that dent was required to fit my car I would want to adjust someones head with that BFH or a 2X4....I see now that my built on the car headers were worth every penny.....I`m a bit confused how when you consider all 63-82 Corvette frames are basically the same and there were only two options for motors these don`t fit right out of the box? It`s not rocket science.....now where is that big mouth that told us all how great these OBX headers were?
Is that a stock box?
Yellow73SB
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2008
- Messages
- 1,201
I wish they made big block headers
6t8vert
Member
A little more news to confuse the issue. I took several pictures of the problem area of the number one pipe hitting the pitman arm so I could show the welder. I also went to HKR web site, and several other venders of the HKR's. I copied the pictures so I could see what the difference in the way the pipes are routed. Well to my surprise, three different venders (to include HKR) and three different routings of the headers for the drivers side. So I thought maybe it is because with or without power steering, with manual or automatic transmission. My steering box is stock so that is normal. I also looked at a friends steering box and pitman arm, the same as mine. I looked at the #7 cylinder header pipe and all of them go stright down, which does not leave room for a z bar. I am not bashing HKR or OBX, just is interesting that there are so many different header pipe routings from the same manufacturer. I should have my header pipe "fixed" within a couple of days so I can finish the job. Again, I am not bashing any manufacturer, it just would seem one of them could get it right, could sure save us C3 guys a lot of grief and aggavation. I tried the OBX knowing there might be some issues. I could not find where anyone had tried the OBX side exhaust for a C3. Not to be the ginney pig but wanted the look so now pay the price. Even with the slight mod to the header pipe, still come in great with the price. Just received a Corvette catalog from a vender, HKR with sidepipes and muffler--$1700 plus shipping. I'll have a lot less than that in it when I am done. That does not include the copper gaskets. I'll keep you posted.
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
hookers:
