I would like to add that a HV has nothing to do with a bursting filter or opening of the bypass valve. (you made me wonder which bypass you're talking about here, since on a normal engine there's 2 imo, namely one in the filter and one in the spin on adapter. To state things clear I run an adapter without bypass and let the filter do this job).
If the HV pump puts out to much volume (which is not pressure) it will bypass to the input side of the pump. The only thing that can cause things to go south is pressure. This is regulated by the spring in the pump, which is easily changed for a low pressure type.
The rule here is 10 psi per 1000 rpm if I'm correct.
Wether or not you need a HV pump is dependant on other factors as clearances etc. I run a HV currently because of a load of long oil lines running from my engine to the remote filter, oil cooler, accusump. Then there is the crossdrilled crank, the pressure oiled roller lifters, the spring oilers I intend to run...
All this talk made me question filters.
So what is a good filter ? And what about the valve in the filter ?
Not sure if you had a typo or not, but there is only one filter bypass on common oem setups.
The Ford type, has the bypass in the filter and not in the housing.
The Chevy type has the bypass in the housing and not in the filter.
The only oem difference is in the Ford type racing filters, such as Fram R, which eliminate the built in filter bypass, but at the same time decrease the filtration from approx 20 micron to over 60 micron, obviously to handle the increased flow.
For the HV pump, any time you increase the flow with the same resistance you will also increase the pressure. Adding an oil cooler, longer lines, accusump does nothing to decrease the pressure (or requiring more flow) since the oil ultimately flows thru the same restrictions in the engine.
The others like the drilled crank, spring oilers etc can use more flow to keep the same pressure. You may want to add extra oiling for the dist gear and timing gears too, since you have the hv pump.
A word about the oil pump relief.
Most Melling HVs come with a 70psi spring. If you have an accurate gauge and are showing 70psi, your same setup without that relief may put out 110 psi. In other words you don't really know how much oil the pump is relieving or bypassing. Putting in a lower relief spring of say 60psi will make the pump bypass more of the time and of course show 60psi on the gauge.
Anytime a hydraulic system goes over relief, the oil heats very, very quickly, degrades and the pump has a good opportunity to cavitate, all of which is detrimental.
You would be better off to put an 80psi spring in and lower the oil viscosity or reduce the flow resistance in the circuit to keep the pressure where you want it and under relief all or most of the time.