DeeVeeEight
Fast Pedalphile
replacing the front cable and installing a cable tensioner did the trick on my '79
Parking brake
- Thread starter Arthur Brown
- Start date
replacing the front cable and installing a cable tensioner did the trick on my '79
JPhil
Huh?
OK, so I repeat my question: What does any of that have to do with whether or not you can make the e-brake on a C3 work properly?
Federal mandates or not, I want mine to work. I will now work on it some more using information given here. This is the first time I have ever heard anyone say that they actually can work as they should.
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mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
BECAUSE in 16 friggin' years of car ownership it was a rare car where the brakes held jack diddly.....and that was with rear drums....
and so ONE guy in my entire rememberance of shark ownership gets his brake to work somehow.....when all the rest just accept that it's a design inadequacy and the FACT that it's a 5" drum trying to hold 3400 lbs on a incline....well....pardon ME, but I take my experiences to the bank....
and I also know how the liberal mind set works....they HATE CARS....
:tth:
big_G
Blown Member
Wow....some excitement here..ha ha....Keep in mind that the same skinny parking brake shoes were used on most of the C-4's, all C-5 and pretty sure used on the C-6's. G.M. has screwed up some things on the Corvette, and fixed/re-designed things when necessary. The C-3 parking brake was good enough that no changes were made in the 14 years of production. I guarantee you nay-sayers ( not mentioning any names) that the parking brakes worked fine when the car was new. Similar to everyone putting electric fans on their 'Vette to cure "overheating". The 'Vette, when new, didn't overheat. Bottom line....it boils down to either improper set-up or lack of maintenance.
MYBAD79
Moderator
If you use properly sized hydraulic cylinders to press the shoes against the drum you can hold more than 3400lbs with these 5" drums :bounce:
GTR1999
Gearhead
Couple of notes, when I rebuild arms I turn the star wheels as they are sometimes a little long and the shoes will drag otherwise. I do use the SS shoes and have been able to get the lock up. Once I found some were thick and I had to dress them so the star wheel would fit.
Once the arms are done I fit rotors most of the time and dial them in. Last check I do is to hold the lever to see if the shoes drag after I faced the wheels, they should not. Then I adjust the star wheel until I lock them up, back them off and ship them. the installer will final adjust on the car. If you have the original cables then they may be stretched and should be replaced. I had my 69's adjusted to hold the car on a kwik-lift ramp no problem. It was a hair too tight in fact and heated up in a short drive. I really don't use them on my cars, they're all new but I just never bothered to go back and final adjust them.
Once the arms are done I fit rotors most of the time and dial them in. Last check I do is to hold the lever to see if the shoes drag after I faced the wheels, they should not. Then I adjust the star wheel until I lock them up, back them off and ship them. the installer will final adjust on the car. If you have the original cables then they may be stretched and should be replaced. I had my 69's adjusted to hold the car on a kwik-lift ramp no problem. It was a hair too tight in fact and heated up in a short drive. I really don't use them on my cars, they're all new but I just never bothered to go back and final adjust them.
