bobs77vet
Well-known member
what are you going to do with 100 tabs? thats alot of tabs....is that 1/4" plate
Plastic Fantastic 2
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
order another because that one is about done. Yep, 1/4, those are pretty handle for chassis building.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I'm not stopped, but I am taking some time to consider options.edited I have 3" from the hub face to the fender lip (on the rear of the car).edited I can gain 2" by using narrower Camaro arms.edited I can use Corvette rims (79 mm positive offset - that's just over 3" from the center)... or, of course, buy something aftermarket.edited The wheel has to be 19" to clear the calipers.edited So what to use? deeper offset is kind of cool but the latest trend in making cars handle is longer control arms.... so I dunno... I also need to order the front arms... what I don't want to do is order wheels then need to buy new wheels because I don't like the fit/use.
what that means for the project is I'm going to finish body work and decide which is betteredited
what that means for the project is I'm going to finish body work and decide which is betteredited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Now I get why the person whose fenders were the mold for these said to put the wheel on before you finalized.edited This is terrible but I'm not sure getting a replacement would be any easier....
driver's side is actually pretty good (as are the front fenders)
this is the driver's side (and to be clear - the new differential is far closer to perfect then what GM did with the original)
other side
at least in this direction it's close enough
so this is the offset 4 1/2"edited
what's cool is I could fit a 16" wide wheel in the back.edited I'm still going with my plan of Z06 wheels.edited I've now seen it on another car without flares and they look pretty good.
What's really funny, those wheels were on Plastic Fantastic (the last C3 I built) and I utterly hated then and even tried to give them away.edited Glad they didn't go because now I know exactly what will fit and what 20s will look like on the back
driver's side is actually pretty good (as are the front fenders)
this is the driver's side (and to be clear - the new differential is far closer to perfect then what GM did with the original)
other side
at least in this direction it's close enough
so this is the offset 4 1/2"edited
what's cool is I could fit a 16" wide wheel in the back.edited I'm still going with my plan of Z06 wheels.edited I've now seen it on another car without flares and they look pretty good.
What's really funny, those wheels were on Plastic Fantastic (the last C3 I built) and I utterly hated then and even tried to give them away.edited Glad they didn't go because now I know exactly what will fit and what 20s will look like on the back
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I'll bring this as a separate post because there's a question embedded in it
I'm not sure I know of a good way to fix this.... thinking about using the Dulcich method (cut, foam, mold) - I wonder if that car still is only half flared?edited suggestions on an easy way to get that curve.... tomorrow I verify the suspension isn't part of the issue (even if it is, it's still not round so can only be part of the problem)
edited
I'm not sure I know of a good way to fix this.... thinking about using the Dulcich method (cut, foam, mold) - I wonder if that car still is only half flared?edited suggestions on an easy way to get that curve.... tomorrow I verify the suspension isn't part of the issue (even if it is, it's still not round so can only be part of the problem)
edited
bobs77vet
Well-known member
they make Jigs that attach to the wheel studs that you can rotate to give you the radius you need. i bet you could make one out of ply wood like a big trammel for marking the curve
rtj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2011
- Messages
- 3,231
I feel your pain. The old bodies on old perimeter frames shift around. My hookers are asymmetrical.
Take a breath, work other issues on the car, a good solution will probably pop up.
Great job on the irs. The old “battery box delete” was a winner here. Actually might make a nice product for someone/company (i.e., a replacement panel for the deleted box).
Take a breath, work other issues on the car, a good solution will probably pop up.
Great job on the irs. The old “battery box delete” was a winner here. Actually might make a nice product for someone/company (i.e., a replacement panel for the deleted box).
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
back to offending people who hate Corvettes
I've decided I don't care.edited The fix is to pie slice the passenger side about 1/3 up from the front edge... but frankly, I'm the only person who will ever notice
now I need to wait for the coil overs, and get moving on ordering the bits for the front suspension
I think it looks cool so low - it moves up about an inch but it's going to be low (as low as my other, and it was never a problem)
I've decided I don't care.edited The fix is to pie slice the passenger side about 1/3 up from the front edge... but frankly, I'm the only person who will ever notice
now I need to wait for the coil overs, and get moving on ordering the bits for the front suspension
I think it looks cool so low - it moves up about an inch but it's going to be low (as low as my other, and it was never a problem)
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
A bit of progress
first, Buick is ready for his first ride
which requires hood pins
still have to file fit, but close
first, Buick is ready for his first ride
which requires hood pins
still have to file fit, but close
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
multi-tasking today... Corvette got latches
shocks came last week, waiting on the springs.edited PF1 had 450 lb springs, these will be 550
this is going away - it's funny, I spent a great deal of time trying to find this gear set (3.36s), now I've no need for it
this is what happens when you don't tighten the spring correctly
shocks came last week, waiting on the springs.edited PF1 had 450 lb springs, these will be 550
this is going away - it's funny, I spent a great deal of time trying to find this gear set (3.36s), now I've no need for it
this is what happens when you don't tighten the spring correctly
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
springs arrived
test fitted
just in time to roll it out of the way
test fitted
just in time to roll it out of the way
bobs77vet
Well-known member
very nice....so the broken tab doesn't really matter anymore?
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
to whomever buys it, I'm sure it does.... I'm still working on the why-not-just make my own control arms.... I swear it's not going to happen (which pretty much guarantees it will) pull the body off the frame. it would make it a lot easier to simply make a new cradle, put the wheel face where I want it, solve the offset differential issue.... to that end, I'm likely buying some .120 wall 1" tube next week.
I've been messing with that suspension program that someone on here suggested - in my playing, I really like long arms because it keeps the tires more perpendicular to the road through suspension travel - not to mention less movement means less trouble controlling rebound (since everything stays close to the frame)... might end up being a bust, but it keeps me out of bars and I learn stuff - picture having indy-car-length control arms....
bobs77vet
Well-known member
well the guy i bought the z06 sway bars has both the front and rear cradles and control arms for sale over on the corvette forum from a donor z06 that was not crashed......
theres a start if you dont want to make your own.
theres a start if you dont want to make your own.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
and now I am proud owner of 2 sets of the world's ugliest wheels.editededited
but these are the right bolt pattern and clear the rotors (but not the calipers).
but these are the right bolt pattern and clear the rotors (but not the calipers).
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
someone asked why I got the bumper for the colorado... here's why
even gets to go outside now
even gets to go outside now
bobs77vet
Well-known member
30 days and no work???? what happened, you must be going through withdrawals
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I got distracted
sorry
I'm starting back on this, slowly... but the first is I need my lathe to be working
now the explanation.edited I have that really pretty adapter that only requires a shorter driveshaft and cutting the main cross to fit the 1350 u-joint.edited
the alternative is using an aluminum puck to adapt the Spicer bit you see on the black driveshaft to the 3 bolt differential.edited Problem is it's still a 1350 joint for the over-the-counter adapters (not to mention $200)... so I'm going to use a outer adapter from the other suspension to make an adapter.... which requires some lathe work (and maybe mill work - which would mean going to see a friend about doing both on his lathe and mill)
However, I also have a lathe that 'just' needs to be wired
I think I'm going to rewire this completely and bring it into at least the later part of the 20th century
sorry
I'm starting back on this, slowly... but the first is I need my lathe to be working
now the explanation.edited I have that really pretty adapter that only requires a shorter driveshaft and cutting the main cross to fit the 1350 u-joint.edited
the alternative is using an aluminum puck to adapt the Spicer bit you see on the black driveshaft to the 3 bolt differential.edited Problem is it's still a 1350 joint for the over-the-counter adapters (not to mention $200)... so I'm going to use a outer adapter from the other suspension to make an adapter.... which requires some lathe work (and maybe mill work - which would mean going to see a friend about doing both on his lathe and mill)
However, I also have a lathe that 'just' needs to be wired
I think I'm going to rewire this completely and bring it into at least the later part of the 20th century
bobs77vet
Well-known member
welcome back looks like a fun distraction....I would like a mill/lathe set up
