Plastic Fantastic 2
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
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SuperBuickGuy
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The baby moons will be a nice touch. Especially when you have the Buick up on the trailer.
both of my Buicks have title issues that require being inspected before I can get the title to them - so it's going to happen soon.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
a bit more of the elephant.... got the u-joint so I can get the driveshaft shortened
it's a 1330 (small diameter) to 1350 u-joint..... I know there will be disappointment, but I'm not shortening the shaft - I still have a few things to do on the lathe (like figure out why the tailstock doesn't adjust)edited I also don't have a steady rest, add need to balance and there it is....edited
it's a 1330 (small diameter) to 1350 u-joint..... I know there will be disappointment, but I'm not shortening the shaft - I still have a few things to do on the lathe (like figure out why the tailstock doesn't adjust)edited I also don't have a steady rest, add need to balance and there it is....edited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Story time..... 3" would have been better but 2 will do
anyone considering this particular swap, get the flat plate, not the full billet bit.edited feeding it through the hole was a bit of a challenge
onto the e-brakes
take the old mounts
attach them to the front of the frame - crossing the ebrake cables to take up some length
close
take a die grinder and carbide bit and open the holes up so the cables slip through
simply attach the cable through with a 2" spacer. Eventually, I'm going to do better, (and add that bit in pictures) but for now it works
it's funny, those 20" wheels I hate so much are coming back - 18s will NOT go over these brakes.edited I could probably get away with 19s but since the plan is a nearly 16" wide rear wheel, larger rims will be fineedited
cleaned up and in place
next is run brake lines.
before anyone gets on me about how it looks.edited I'm putting this together, putting black stripes on my driveway and road, then pulling the frame out and making it all pretty... but unlike the land cruiser, I'm going to actually put 100 or so miles on the whole suspension before I blow it back apart.
anyone considering this particular swap, get the flat plate, not the full billet bit.edited feeding it through the hole was a bit of a challenge
onto the e-brakes
take the old mounts
attach them to the front of the frame - crossing the ebrake cables to take up some length
close
take a die grinder and carbide bit and open the holes up so the cables slip through
simply attach the cable through with a 2" spacer. Eventually, I'm going to do better, (and add that bit in pictures) but for now it works
it's funny, those 20" wheels I hate so much are coming back - 18s will NOT go over these brakes.edited I could probably get away with 19s but since the plan is a nearly 16" wide rear wheel, larger rims will be fineedited
cleaned up and in place
next is run brake lines.
before anyone gets on me about how it looks.edited I'm putting this together, putting black stripes on my driveway and road, then pulling the frame out and making it all pretty... but unlike the land cruiser, I'm going to actually put 100 or so miles on the whole suspension before I blow it back apart.
I think that's a great plan. Better to work out all the bugs before you finish weld everything. This is a DRASTIC change in design over the original and you really don't know what weird things might pop up as you are shaking it down. I would add a 0 to that 100 and make the shakedown 1000 miles. You are building a prototype chassis here of sorts much like GM's skunkworks does with each new model of Corvette. That takes some time and testing to make sure you are happy with it.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I agree - I should say "100 trouble free miles" which is usually 1000 miles total..... of course GM is concerned with things like stopping, turning, and all-weather reliability. I like those features, but it's not like they're necessary
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
20s clear.... probably could go 19sedited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
For those curious - the bolt into the axle flange is a M12 x 1.5 bolt.edited If you go to you local bolt dealer, they will look at you like you've grown a 3rd head (and it's a stupid as the other 2).edited You can buy them, but be warned, you will get a bunch of BMW wheel bolts in your search.... why, GM, why?edited you think you're better then 1.25 and 1.75 pitch?edited
the trans bolt is the same, and you cannot use GM bolts because they are a lot too long.
the trans bolt is the same, and you cannot use GM bolts because they are a lot too long.
Mcmaster Carr has 12x1.5
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
they're always my last option because it usually takes at least a week to get anything from them.... I think I have the right ones now, but I need to get a car off the lift to go back...
In other questions, are there aftermarket, manual racks for the c5/c6?
In other questions, are there aftermarket, manual racks for the c5/c6?
rtj
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On the grand am power rack, I just crossed the hydralic lines and used it as manual. It may work on a c5.
Edit: quick search shows photo of c5 rack with a “jumper” hose on the pump connections.
Last edited:
SuperBuickGuy
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Can you feel the valve in the rack when you're driving?
rtj
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On the grand am rack, no issues. I crossed the lines, I’ll see if I can find an old photo.
The only thing I really should do is make new bump steer blocks that give me a tighter turning radius.
The guy that posted the c5 fix was over at CF.
The only thing I really should do is make new bump steer blocks that give me a tighter turning radius.
The guy that posted the c5 fix was over at CF.
rtj
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Looping the line (in-out) works.
SuperBuickGuy
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I read the discussion and it doesn't seem like anyone said "I tried it and it worked"
the thing I'm curious about. If you pull the power steering pump off a C3, the valve in the steering makes for a lot of sloop in the steering. Rack and pinion use the same kind of system - but it looks like a lot less play, so it may be nothing - that said, I'd hate to put this all together and find out that, while it does a nice job centering, it does a terrible job and being neutral on the road.
rtj
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https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/3821690-c5-manual-steering.html
Found it again. See photo.
Found it again. See photo.
Is there a manual steering option for a C5? I wouldn't think so.
Some people are running the Grand Am rack on C3's without a pump and no issues. It probably wouldn't be great for parking lot maneuvering but you probably won't be doing that.
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4337&highlight=manual+rack
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9740&highlight=manual+rack
Some people are running the Grand Am rack on C3's without a pump and no issues. It probably wouldn't be great for parking lot maneuvering but you probably won't be doing that.
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4337&highlight=manual+rack
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9740&highlight=manual+rack
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
so the next step will either be gold or goat.edited I'm going to put Camaro rotors and Camaro Brembo brakes (basically rely on the design of GM).... will it work?edited dunno
I know I can make it work and I know that I'll have to build adapter brackets.... but here's the deal - Detroit Speed suspension is 18,000-23,000 and I may have 2k in this suspension with the new coilovers..... that's front/rear price.... wish me luck
as for the rack - I'm going with a stock C5. There is a drag-race manual rack available for about $500 but it states no street use - which could be an anti-lawyer device or could be it's not designed for high-lateral-g loads.... I'd rather not bet when it comes to that. Thus either I'll make the C5 steering manual (with the bypass line) or I may put a pump on and have hydraboost brakes as well. That said, I may make the steering true manual by converting the stock, C5 rack
I know I can make it work and I know that I'll have to build adapter brackets.... but here's the deal - Detroit Speed suspension is 18,000-23,000 and I may have 2k in this suspension with the new coilovers..... that's front/rear price.... wish me luck
as for the rack - I'm going with a stock C5. There is a drag-race manual rack available for about $500 but it states no street use - which could be an anti-lawyer device or could be it's not designed for high-lateral-g loads.... I'd rather not bet when it comes to that. Thus either I'll make the C5 steering manual (with the bypass line) or I may put a pump on and have hydraboost brakes as well. That said, I may make the steering true manual by converting the stock, C5 rack
bobs77vet
Well-known member
i like the C5 rack on my C5 and i liked the steeroids rack on the C3 (i think that was the grandam rack), i did have to play with the shims in the pump on the C3 to get the pressure right.
I think it would be hard to argue against the c5 rack as a good choice, can you use all the speed sensitivity steering stuff as well that the c5 has?? i guess the power steering pump pressure is reduced as the speed goes up.
I think it would be hard to argue against the c5 rack as a good choice, can you use all the speed sensitivity steering stuff as well that the c5 has?? i guess the power steering pump pressure is reduced as the speed goes up.
