Plastic Fantastic 2
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
beautiful car and beautiful job... dang.
I was watching Bitchin Rides (Kindigit) and their Mercedes gull wing build. I saw the car at SEMA, so I really watched with interest how they fixed the issues with that car. the one I found most interesting was when he was rebuilding the fender and made basically an air mold using dental floss as the backer.... I think doing that, then tape, the foam behind it, then laying glass and resin would be a pretty straight-forward way of doing it.... but with fiberglass, whatever way works for you is the right one. What I wish they had described was how they kept their gloves from becoming hairy with fibers as they worked the glass mat into place.
there is a side-issue for me. I glued the flares on with the same adhesive GM uses to adhere truck bed sides - I suspect that if I tried to take it apart there, I'd fail badly.
I was watching Bitchin Rides (Kindigit) and their Mercedes gull wing build. I saw the car at SEMA, so I really watched with interest how they fixed the issues with that car. the one I found most interesting was when he was rebuilding the fender and made basically an air mold using dental floss as the backer.... I think doing that, then tape, the foam behind it, then laying glass and resin would be a pretty straight-forward way of doing it.... but with fiberglass, whatever way works for you is the right one. What I wish they had described was how they kept their gloves from becoming hairy with fibers as they worked the glass mat into place.
there is a side-issue for me. I glued the flares on with the same adhesive GM uses to adhere truck bed sides - I suspect that if I tried to take it apart there, I'd fail badly.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
first some CAD
then some lay out
dang, I even impressed myself with this freehand
then a few bends and fitting
which is where I stopped for the night.
then some lay out
dang, I even impressed myself with this freehand
then a few bends and fitting
which is where I stopped for the night.
vette427sbc
Well-known member
Looking good! One thing worth mentioning... the C5 suspension is designed with a certain scrub radius in mind. A wheel that fits this will likely open up your available wheel options considering how popular the C5/6 platform is. Cost savings from off the shelf wheels may help with your re-flare decision
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
carrying on
even clears the radiator support
lots of finish welding to do but it's driveable now.... which means I'm taking it apart further
time to eyeball for the coil overs
tomorrow the springs arrive but I think the next step will be finish bolting the front support in place, cut the 4 body bolts, remove a couple hoses and wires then lift off the chassis.editededited
even clears the radiator support
lots of finish welding to do but it's driveable now.... which means I'm taking it apart further
time to eyeball for the coil overs
tomorrow the springs arrive but I think the next step will be finish bolting the front support in place, cut the 4 body bolts, remove a couple hoses and wires then lift off the chassis.editededited
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
Looking good, man!
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
springs came
time to make a lower control arm mount
the rear is going to require a bunch more work to make it work (which really isn't a huge deal - the entire purpose of this was to solve the rear suspension issues and now spend $12,000 for a bandaid).editededited
the issue is the shock needs to lean at least 20 degrees over and preferably 30
and it will... just have to remove that redundant frame rail
front isn't bad, but it has an interesting issue
see the stabilizer.... it interferes.... but doesn't on the driver's side.
this tank may end up on the car - or at least the expensive bits...edited
in the vein of recycling... I had a bunch of parts cut for a guldstrand rear suspension... not using the system, but the parts make great upper shock mounts
time to make a lower control arm mount
the rear is going to require a bunch more work to make it work (which really isn't a huge deal - the entire purpose of this was to solve the rear suspension issues and now spend $12,000 for a bandaid).editededited
the issue is the shock needs to lean at least 20 degrees over and preferably 30
and it will... just have to remove that redundant frame rail
front isn't bad, but it has an interesting issue
see the stabilizer.... it interferes.... but doesn't on the driver's side.
this tank may end up on the car - or at least the expensive bits...edited
in the vein of recycling... I had a bunch of parts cut for a guldstrand rear suspension... not using the system, but the parts make great upper shock mounts
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
ah turkey day.... not much accomplished other then driving 400 miles
but still time to talk ofsets
whether anyone likes it or not, 20s is all that fit... .20x10 front 20x12 rear (though this could go to 14 if I so choose)
front 2 3/4" = 69.85 mm,edited 20x10 - 254 mm width.edited divide by 2 = 127.edited 127-69.85= 57.15 mm or 58mm positive offset on a 10 inch rim (which is a custom size, the best I've found is in the 40s)
rear 4"
math 20x12 = 304.8/2 = 153.9-101.6 (4 inches) = 52.3.... interestingly, the rears tend to be nearer zero or further out in the 70 range.
oh yeah and one more thing.... yes, that is suspended on the spring
did that by welding tabs on the top
hopefully Sunday I can start making the rear suspended
next up, I'll probably buy the tires to double check my measurements. One thing, though, about the front is if I extend the flares 1/2", then there are off-the-shelf solutions. That said custom wheels start at 600 and go up from there, so at some point, I may just say heck with it
but still time to talk ofsets
whether anyone likes it or not, 20s is all that fit... .20x10 front 20x12 rear (though this could go to 14 if I so choose)
front 2 3/4" = 69.85 mm,edited 20x10 - 254 mm width.edited divide by 2 = 127.edited 127-69.85= 57.15 mm or 58mm positive offset on a 10 inch rim (which is a custom size, the best I've found is in the 40s)
rear 4"
math 20x12 = 304.8/2 = 153.9-101.6 (4 inches) = 52.3.... interestingly, the rears tend to be nearer zero or further out in the 70 range.
oh yeah and one more thing.... yes, that is suspended on the spring
did that by welding tabs on the top
hopefully Sunday I can start making the rear suspended
next up, I'll probably buy the tires to double check my measurements. One thing, though, about the front is if I extend the flares 1/2", then there are off-the-shelf solutions. That said custom wheels start at 600 and go up from there, so at some point, I may just say heck with it
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SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
bmw 750il wheels work
and yeah, Custom Image Flares got me again.... the opening isn't the same right to left; that said, it's not a huge thing to fix - but it does give flesh to the warning I got from the guy whose C3 was the template for the flares (don't finish the flares until you have the wheels)
but the offset works
and it doesn't hit the wheel opening when turning
thankfully the right side is correct.... so it's just a matter of copying
back side looks good.... the 'real' wheels will be wider, but this, for now, works
''
*sigh*
I should point out, that the wheel will be out about another 1/2" in the front - because of the rotor and the brake mounting bracket.... so it was going to get changed anyway
and yeah, Custom Image Flares got me again.... the opening isn't the same right to left; that said, it's not a huge thing to fix - but it does give flesh to the warning I got from the guy whose C3 was the template for the flares (don't finish the flares until you have the wheels)
but the offset works
and it doesn't hit the wheel opening when turning
thankfully the right side is correct.... so it's just a matter of copying
back side looks good.... the 'real' wheels will be wider, but this, for now, works
''
*sigh*
I should point out, that the wheel will be out about another 1/2" in the front - because of the rotor and the brake mounting bracket.... so it was going to get changed anyway
phantomjock
Well-known member
Lookin' really great. I like those wheels too.
A quick question - Are the jack stands holding the front arms at full compression? I didn't see a comment earlier, I suspect so, but inquiring minds...
Cheers - JIm
A quick question - Are the jack stands holding the front arms at full compression? I didn't see a comment earlier, I suspect so, but inquiring minds...
Cheers - JIm
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
yep
69427
The Artist formerly known as Turbo84
so to more detail.
............................
another tip - the front control arm hole is 3/4" lower then the rear hole.... this picture is close to where it needs to live
Use the hole where the lines are drawn (rear) - those holes are supposed to be in the same spot on either side.edited That said, trust but verify.
I'm considering angling the lower control arms on my replacement crossmember this winter. I'm curious what angle that 3/4" difference ends up making. Have you measured it, or if you can just give the the center to center measurement of the lower control arm I'll just do the math.
Thanks.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
my thumb is on the front of the a-arm - that's .8 degrees
the upper arm is 12 degrees
the upper arm is 12 degrees
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SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
leveled the nose and it is close enough that I'm not going to mess with it - Keep in mind that I'm painting this black (or a dark color) so edges really blend
progress pictures
I need to brace the rear assembly, before the body lift
then I need to lay the coil over over... so that's a notch
how, in all that's holy, does fiberglass look like it rusted?edited
ughedited
thankfully I have sawzall blades.
progress pictures
I need to brace the rear assembly, before the body lift
then I need to lay the coil over over... so that's a notch
how, in all that's holy, does fiberglass look like it rusted?edited
ughedited
thankfully I have sawzall blades.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
a few minutes and got it on the ground
a bit of frame notching
and voila a roller again
it does need the wider rear tires..
a bit of frame notching
and voila a roller again
it does need the wider rear tires..
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
front brakes - I finally decided to go backwards. I cut the ears off the C5 spindles thinking I'd fabricate a bracket that attaches to the hub bolts. I seriously over thought it. The current plan is to cut the height of the ears down, drill new holes, then build a backing plate for the ears (to add strength back). Photos soon, hopefully while we're milling them
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
moving along time to make the coil overs permanent
it's getting close to time to get a few more tab plates lasered out
so when I do the finish work, all this will get boxed and finished
for now it's strong enough to drive
all I did on the lower arm was redrill the hole
now to connect the steering wheel to the front
basically, take the u-joint off the top and replace it with the lower one.... and in this case, had I not had the u-joint, I may have done this a bit different....edited
heat removes it
test
the issue
basically heat puts the new one back on....edited
and now it steers.. what's left there is to replace the motor mount and clean up the frame... which I'll do when I pull the body off (likely Sunday)
it's getting close to time to get a few more tab plates lasered out
so when I do the finish work, all this will get boxed and finished
for now it's strong enough to drive
all I did on the lower arm was redrill the hole
now to connect the steering wheel to the front
basically, take the u-joint off the top and replace it with the lower one.... and in this case, had I not had the u-joint, I may have done this a bit different....edited
heat removes it
test
the issue
basically heat puts the new one back on....edited
and now it steers.. what's left there is to replace the motor mount and clean up the frame... which I'll do when I pull the body off (likely Sunday)
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
hateful task ahead
but I finally afforded myself a power bleeder for when I get brakes
random rear picture
but I finally afforded myself a power bleeder for when I get brakes
random rear picture
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
so I have new spindles and plan b is this
I'll mill the tabs into spindle and basically take the same amount off both the spindle and the caliper.edited I figure the reduced metal thickness will be offset by the tabs being against the spindle/hub..edited
I'll mill the tabs into spindle and basically take the same amount off both the spindle and the caliper.edited I figure the reduced metal thickness will be offset by the tabs being against the spindle/hub..edited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
No, I haven't forgotten this.edited My friend with the mill is on vacation until early next year, so the front brake/spindle mods get to wait, also I have a stack of postponed projects that really need movement (e.g. Colorado air compressor, rack, lights, sliders; Suburban stuff).edited Also, the next step after the brakes is pull the body off.edited That, of course, fills my shop and lift - so the other projects plus my wife's craptastic Jeep JK Rubicon (which is leaking coolant, again) means I need to put this on a 2 month or so hold... leaving the body on the frame makes it far easier to move.
in other news, I've been building a plasma table so I can make nice pieces for the frame work that is soon to come
in other news, I've been building a plasma table so I can make nice pieces for the frame work that is soon to come
