Plastic Fantastic 2

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 22, 2017

rtj said:
Hope you plan on a block saver and blow proof bell housing. They make an extended pilot bushing now to accomadate the block saver.

oh yes, I like my feet.

rtj · Sep 23, 2017

SuperBuickGuy said:
rtj said:

Hope you plan on a block saver and blow proof bell housing. They make an extended pilot bushing now to accomadate the block saver.

Click to expand...

oh yes, I like my feet.

Yep! I think someone posted what the fiberglass looks like after a flywheel lets go, haven't seen one in a while.

I think speedway sells the extended bushing. I used oem and was careful not to drive it in too deep. Edit:Speedway SBC/BBC Chevy V8 Extra-Long Bronze Pilot Bushing

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 24, 2017

1

2

3

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 25, 2017

oil pan troubles.... you'd think if you got the pan and pickup together, they'd fit... you'd be wrong

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 26, 2017

so tonight I didn't have much time so it was time to dig in my stash of stuff and find a mini-starter, motor mounts, steel sfi flywheel, and oil pump stuff.... I also found some roller rockers that I forgot I had, though not for a BBC.

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 27, 2017

I just couldn't leave that one in the block

pushrod checking length - as is normal, one of the checkers won't work because you can't get the jam nut past the guideplate

which lead to another issue... there's an interference between the head and the piston
cute,no?

the repair

see the straight edge? it's designed for the older, closed port heads

now it's all heart shaped.... and an interference.

yeah, precision work....
I'm still not sure I took enough off but until I get clay and check that along with the valve clearance, at least it doesn't hit on rotation. I'm going for .050 clearance

pretty, even with the missing tooth

the water pump is on because I can - not because I should

rtj · Sep 27, 2017

Looks like you are having fun. I prefer to do as much as possible, but motors and transmissions I've been leaving to experts.

One thing I forgot to mention, word of caution, on a Lakewood bellhousing. I used all new parts, ram clutch, adjustable pivot, et cetera, but needed to open up the opening 1/4 inch to get enough adjustment. It might be the body shifted with time. After pulling the trans and driveshaft a couple of times I got it right. A lot of extra work I might have avoided with some planning/measurements.

SuperBuickGuy · Sep 29, 2017

I enjoy doing it all.... though if I could afford it, I'd farm out the body work
first things first.... replace the plug

then measure for new pushrods

verify that nothing is going to hit (and who says I'm not crafty?)

at least .0740 of clearance

verified both sides

stack it all together again

which brings the new problem.... I ordered the wrong head bolts, in case anyone is copying this - the heads are similar to a Profiler 18 or 24, so those are the head bolts to get. Ah well, it's all moving the right way

SuperBuickGuy · Oct 1, 2017

test fit time

with supervision

this was a bit spun up because a balloon went over....

hmmm, nice balance

let's try that again

take wheel off.... life is easier until I finally build a gantry

almost like GM planned it this way

part one was how tall of valve cover would fit

this is why there is a big hit on the header tube from OBX - still looks like crap

miles of room

and the other thing I needed to know - how much scoop

certainly won't be doing a tall filter but it looks like just enough clearance for my L88 scoop

SuperBuickGuy · Oct 2, 2017

If you need to see pictures that disappeared because Photobucket's hijacking of photos.... this works. the rule is you should clear your image cache if the pictures aren't coming back up

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/...ed-fix/naolkcpnnlofnnghnmfegnfnflicjjgj?hl=en

SuperBuickGuy · Oct 5, 2017

so, other then the DD distraction, parts are coming together to move forward ..
first, and oh how I loved the howl last time I changed the rag joint for a solid borgeson joint.... these are the bits to remove the power steering and the rag joint

and I got the pushrods

now it's time to start pulling the stuff down for the rest of this build

I'm sure someone, somewhere needs this cowl hood and wants to trade me for their flat one - so I can put a different scoop in it. The guy who did this did a reasonable job installing the scoop so it seems kind of a shame to cut it one up

SuperBuickGuy · Oct 6, 2017

the only thing interesting about this picture (other then the sweet flare) is this...

I hit the paint with 80 grit sand paper and it didn't even scratch the surface, but that duct tape took off a layer of paint in 10 minutes.

bobs77vet · Oct 7, 2017

i have heard of people stripping the paint with a razor blade faster then being able to sand it.

SuperBuickGuy · Oct 8, 2017

I tried a bit on this one.... nope. I think I have to be smarter then the razor blade. I think I'm just going to use stripper... fortunately, by the time I put the flares on and the new hood I won't have much left to strip

bobs77vet · Oct 8, 2017

i used stripper on the aluminum body panels on the MGA the hood, trunk lid and doors and it worked very well. i just used the aircraft stripper from the strip mall auto parts strore that supposedly has been watered down and is half the strength of the good ole days....any way it worked just fine

denpo · Oct 8, 2017

bobs77vet said:
i have heard of people stripping the paint with a razor blade faster then being able to sand it.

I concur. Started getting the hang of it on parts I'd have to redo with filler anyway then moved to the rest. Went quick with the peace of mind of not putting anything corrosive on the body.
My personal trick was to work with the dullness the razor blades, I used fresh blades on very flat and simple surfaces, then when they get duller I kept them for working on more complex shapes. Too sharp blades promote nicks in curvy areas.

SuperBuickGuy · Oct 9, 2017

I may only go down to the original paint... it's the top coat that's the problem with repainting. We will see when I get there.
I was right, dammit, I was right. But before the details....

got the pins for the bellhousing

yes, extra long, not sure that's a good idea but it's what I've got

part of the day was cleaning the engine bay - which happened after the motor was removed

not terrible, but dirty

much better

after it dries, paint...

pulled the pan off to do the mods I need to finish on it

you'll note the engine doesn't have heads on it.... that's because the chinesium head bolts broke at 74 lbs....

I knew it. I knew I should have just bought ARP studs. They're $220 (that I would have had to buy twice because I would have bought the wrong ones first).... The chinese heads are profiler 24 heads that require a bit shorter outside bolts and 1" longer bolts across the top of the exhaust ports... ah well, I'm seriously just one crank away from having a complete 2nd BBC with all the spare parts.... did I mention that I was building another 427? this one is a gift for my dad and his 65 Chevelle SS (no telling).