Plastic Fantastic 2

phantomjock · Jan 26, 2021

Just a thought - and adding more work for you - BUT as long as the block is out and "empty." Tap the 8 flow-back/drain hole in the lifter valley with a 1/4 NPT. That way if you ever decide to install a Dry Sump - you can easily add the stand off pipes Ive seen. That seems to be where I'm trying to work a solution as my engine is assembled (bottom end).

Beat it likes it owes me money - I like it (I'm taking that).
Class B and Trailer - my plan too - maybe see you on the road.:friends:

Cheers - Jim

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 26, 2021

probably a dumb question - but 1/4" stand off pipes in the lifter valley?

*edit

I see you're running a SBC. Mine is a BBC, lifter screens would probably be a good idea, but (I add this for random readers) it doesn't have the lifter-valley 'holes' that are capped or have standoffs to reduce oil dropping back through the center of the motor...

windage is a much larger problem in the limited space of a stroked SBC than it is with a destroked BBC. Jury is out whether I'm brilliant or an idiot for big-bore/short-stroke motor. Thankfully, I only play a car guy on evenings and weekends

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 27, 2021

time to hone

and then a problem (actually a couple problems)...first, the hole wasn't lined with the oil feed (not a huge deal) however, these bearings weren't looking happy, then there was the notches where they were installed... I can't imagine having to pull this all the way apart to repair cam bearings... so out they come

the easiest way to do this...

bonus issue... I went to clean the passages and one plug was finger tight.... 2 had thread lock, one was loose, the other was okay... I'll stake them when they go back in (and drill a hole for timing chain oiling

that bearing probably isn't reusable....

phantomjock · Jan 27, 2021

I really like the detail you are providing on this build. I forgot you are on a BBC!
We interrupt this program..:

The general idea is two fold. Keep crap out of the bottom end, and that includes excess oil (and the scavenge does that). Tapping the holes is something I thought of as you are torn down - wish my SBC had been done at that point. And the BBC has a different layout And, OOPS - forgot you're doing a BBC.

But there are some approached to consider before you "put the lid on". Norval (sometime poster here) added a screen over his valley on his BBC to keep lifter parts out of the bottom end. Seems like good insurance

. Kind of a "while you at it" task. Might use a finer mesh, but the screen he added would keep out the big chunks. Milodon makes a kit, Milodon 23160 Lifter Valley Screen Kits Big Block Chevy [HINT - pitstopusa.com is over 10 bucks cheaper than ebay]. I'm going to add neo-magnets as well to my lifter valley. You can find those and install like washers at: https://www.kjmagnetics.com

Now I gotta figure something out or just deal with it as is. Wish somebody made mini-freeze plugs to pound in the holes in the lifter valley on the SBC!

Cheers - Jim

I'll add more-better info on my progress/research on the other thread.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled program...

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 28, 2021

Time to start moving in the right direction
but first remove the rest of the cam bearings...edited

note the problem? while it is true that BBC bearings are different diameters, this is the first I've seen where one is narrower

but now I can paint

this stuff works well, so again....

how to store it

shiney

get it to flash so I can start assembly tomorrow

bobs77vet · Jan 28, 2021

that looks awesome....as to the really big mesh wire on the lifter gallery what about all the smaller stuff that can get through it, does keeping the big stuff out really make a difference if the smaller stuff is getting through it?

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 29, 2021

the reason I use non-needle bearings in both the rockers and lifters... there's nothing up or down that will shed little bits into the oil system.. the problem with BB's is they can hold oil up on the top.... which, I'd really rather not experience.

I could epoxy a screen in place - but it's a restriction... at least that's my take on it - there are other opinions.

time to build

cam bearings in

rear plug in place

my clever way of figuring out which bolts hold the windage tray

studly

.042 above the deck (yes, I know the piston is in upside dow)

I figured when it took .040 to get the deck right that I'd be using spacer gaskets... 080 to the rescue

and while I'm at it, mark the balancer

in other news, this idea needs some work... I'm not a fan of using the aluminum steering shaft, but welding aluminum to steel is beyond my abilities

so that's a Camaro one.... problem is it's splined rather than flatted.... I may fix that... but we'll see

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 29, 2021

In other news, Wilwood Corvette Challenge. There is no way this year, but I can totally see doing it in 2022.... As long as the car is reliable, I can store it in S. Cal or Vegas.. they fly and drive..... but let's see how this first round goes... I know there's a mountain of knowledge to gain and all I see are the foothills.

bobs77vet · Jan 29, 2021

SuperBuickGuy said:
the reason I use non-needle bearings in both the rockers and lifters... there's nothing up or down that will shed little bits into the oil system.. the problem with BB's is they can hold oil up on the top.... which, I'd really rather not experience.

interesting and I had thought my roller bearing rocker arms was a good thing never thought about it that way, of course they repalced the stamped rockers that broke.

nice photos i definitely am living this build vicariously

69427 · Jan 29, 2021

SuperBuickGuy said:
the reason I use non-needle bearings in both the rockers and lifters... there's nothing up or down that will shed little bits into the oil system.. the problem with BB's is they can hold oil up on the top.... which, I'd really rather not experience.
.......................

I share your concern. :thumbs:

I made one exception, that being a needle thrust bearing between the cam sprocket and the block. It is the one part that causes me frequent concern when running the engine hard on track days.

SuperBuickGuy · Jan 29, 2021

bobs77vet said:
SuperBuickGuy said:

the reason I use non-needle bearings in both the rockers and lifters... there's nothing up or down that will shed little bits into the oil system.. the problem with BB's is they can hold oil up on the top.... which, I'd really rather not experience.

Click to expand...

interesting and I had thought my roller bearing rocker arms was a good thing never thought about it that way, of course they replaced the stamped rockers that broke.

nice photos i definitely am living this build vicariously

The stock LS that brought needle bearing rocker concern to the world - however, it was a friend who is running a BBC 427 in Miss Blue (something or another) that lunched at least 2 motors due to roller bearings set loose in the motor that convinced me. (they're also the ones who are getting 1100 hp NA out of a BBC 427 - that also helped but I'm not running 14:1 or methanol so my mountain is not quite as monsterous).

SuperBuickGuy · Feb 2, 2021

onward with the motor.
$15.00 engine bags? uh no, how about 10 for $35.00 100 gallon trash tote liners?editededited

measure the end play

to spec
eyeball the scraper

seems fine

hmm... problem

clean and reassemble the oil pump (with new pickup)

time to assemble pistons (can't do the scraper without the pistons in)

and yet.... it's now a 4 cylinder

SuperBuickGuy · Feb 3, 2021

Storytime... doesn't include scraper... well, it doesn't end in a scraper
but first things first, I owe the motor 4 more pistons
number 8.... and yes, I bought a one-size piston ring compressor.... break one ring, once, and you'll (like me) think this is cheap insurance

started marking it out

realized that I'd take most of it off... for very little (if any) benefitedited

because there is also a windage tray

however, as I pointed out before - it hits the pan

next up, remove the stud, cut 3/8" off, reinstall...edited

bobs77vet · Feb 3, 2021

your engine building skills are way over mine....(thats a good thing) the blue thing is a scraper to remove oil on the rotating mass? or is it to give you pan clearance or both?

SuperBuickGuy · Feb 3, 2021

bobs77vet said:
your engine building skills are way over mine....(thats a good thing) the blue thing is a scraper to remove oil on the rotating mass? or is it to give you pan clearance or both?

yep, scraper now scrap.... after I got to the windage tray mounted I realized that the scraper was doing nothing but creating the possibility of an oil leak (because the windage tray is within .040 of the weights).

SuperBuickGuy · Feb 3, 2021

To be clear about something.I measured the main caps with the original bolts and with the studs torqued to spec, there was no difference in diameter IN CAPITAL LETTERS, YOU MUST CHECK THIS but in this case, there was no need to hone.

phantomjock · Feb 3, 2021

I just got my new gasket yesterday, and today the rails came for my oil pan. The Fel-Pro gasket has these cool "doofers" to screw into the block, and then snap in the gasket to hold while installing the pan. Something I'll need while laying under the car. I'm jealous of your engine work and being out of the chassis.

I've got to wait for the Ceracoat to arrive next week to spray the pan (outside heat transfer coating). Then I'll catch up -- HAHA!

Seriously nice work there.

Cheers - Jim

SuperBuickGuy · Feb 4, 2021

catch up... I'm so far behind already...

trimmed

wooohooo?

ah no
look close, the back is too high

I suspect it's hitting the rear stands... but tomorrow I'm getting a replacement endoscope and can check easily enough.... still hope to have it in the car this weekend.
though, before I noticed the pan was too far back - I measured the clearance.... 1/2" is enough