Plastic Fantastic 2

It was a busy night for Trio, had to hide Luigi's ball
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yet they are peas in a pod... there is a 6 or so month age difference
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back to C3 content
I can move the exhaust pipe towards the car. Granted, it's no longer parallel, but I have a thought
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that it will help deflect noise
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I'm close, within 1 db...
 
Turned down or inboard for race day? (tire warming)
Insert a tip cone with large holes? Just 1 dB is close.
Hope your measurement is accurate (or at least very conservative).
 
phantomjock said:
Turned down or inboard for race day? (tire warming)
Insert a tip cone with large holes? Just 1 dB is close.
Hope your measurement is accurate (or at least very conservative).
Click to expand...
I will have 2 2" 'extensions' to eliminate the bell that's created from the end of the glass pack to the tip of the exhaust.

With all of that said, there is no event where I'm a single car out there at full song - thus my hope is close enough is, truly, fine. And again, it's a 3 strike rule - I can run my limiter at a lower rpm (call it 5200 or so) and squeak under. Hopefully, testing will come next weekend at the autocross. Also, I have scheduled a track night at PIR at the end of this month (rescheduled) where I'll get to test the noise system at PIR (which is where Optima happens in July).

And, of course, we're moving 300 miles away during all of this.... so it should be interesting.
 
autox weekend.... the motorhome, it's beyond slow
and I need to fix the trailer brakes - developed a short on the trip
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looking for a short - and need to replace one tire...
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I also took the opportunity to repack wheel bearings - this trailer is going to get a work out over the next few weeks...
 
Sounds like your next big block build might be for the motorhome. MORE POWER!!!! Seriously though, a more modern transmission would likely be as big of a help. My parent's motorhome would be completely transformed by the 6 speed auto that is in my truck. It tows our camper great, but the electronic control aspect of it makes it a bit more of a difficult retrofit into an older model. It can be done, but is probably easier with an entire drivetrain swap. Probably easier just to warm up the big block and add a Gear Vendors overdrive to get a few more gears to help pull it out of the hole when the Vette is in tow. How did the car do?
 
Red77 said:
Sounds like your next big block build might be for the motorhome. MORE POWER!!!! Seriously though, a more modern transmission would likely be as big of a help. My parent's motorhome would be completely transformed by the 6 speed auto that is in my truck. It tows our camper great, but the electronic control aspect of it makes it a bit more of a difficult retrofit into an older model. It can be done, but is probably easier with an entire drivetrain swap. Probably easier just to warm up the big block and add a Gear Vendors overdrive to get a few more gears to help pull it out of the hole when the Vette is in tow. How did the car do?
Click to expand...
A very minor issue of the rack is leaking, but the car did awesome... me, I've got a lot to learn.... the difference I need to make up is 6 seconds. There was someone there who I think does the Optima challenge. He was 6 seconds faster then me (won the class).... I wasn't last - call it 'mid pack' but I have so much to learn (not whining, recognizing the challenge that I will overcome).

Ordered a rebuilt rack, should be here by June 2. Will likely lower the front a bit more and put at least one more 'click' in the attack angle of the rear spoiler.

So that was the biggest victory - no more understeer. Will probably put another 1/2 degree of camber in when I lower it. I could also use a bit more sway bar... but all of those things - no biggie... also need to pull quite a bit of fuel out (tuning)....

the motorhome.... what it needs is a cummins or duramax swap. But I'm not sure this is the right motorhome for that.... I dunno, this is an "after race season issue" - I'll consider solutions and start looking at repower options.... but not now, there's racing to do ;) oh yeah, and moving - signed the closing docs today
 
No more understeer with a big block is a crowning achievement, so you're getting close. You've got a lot on your plate for sure, so your progress despite the challenges is extra inspiring.
 
wow, the impossibility of getting a rebuilt steering rack for a C5 or C6 is pretty remarkable.... I bought another used one, figure I'll get my current one rebuilt (maybe?)
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
wow, the impossibility of getting a rebuilt steering rack for a C5 or C6 is pretty remarkable.... I bought another used one, figure I'll get my current one rebuilt (maybe?)
Click to expand...
I see a lot of that on CF. Several folks were complaining about the rebuilt ones they got from Zip Products leaking, but I see Zip is now showing out of stock. Good luck.
 
INQUIRING MINDS... want to know.
What is the advantage over Sweet - or other options? Front vs rear Steer?
Turns - Lock to Lock?
Power/Manual?
Span; wheel - to - wheel?
Easy Mount?
Price Point?

I can't believe it is about "maintaining" ethnic "purity"? Other bits are quite clearly from other suppliers, so please; school me on the advantage of C5/6 Rack.
I do know - it is difficult to source racks that match requirements - not unlike brake calipers, pads, etc., etc., etc. But is there something more specific I'm missing?

Thanks in advance. I appreciate you "smarten'-ing" me up. I'll be looking again soon too!

Cheers - Jim
 
Not trying to hijack, but I can supply a little insight. I have used both a Woodward and a Sweet rack, and my brother used a Woodward with C6 suspension in his Jag. The only critical thing is rack length. In order to keep control of bumpsteer, the ends of the rack need to fall on a line between the inner pick-up points of the upper and lower control arms. Since the control arms are not equal length, moving the rack up or down requires a different length. You can order most Woodward/Sweet racks in different lengths. Some racks, like the ones I use, are circle-track stuff and mount near the center with three bolts. I fabricate brackets on the cross-member to accommodate. Other racks, like the ones in the Jag, mount in collars further outboard. You can get the racks in manual or powered, and there is a wide range of ratios available. There is limited availability of racks for rear steer, except for some of the street rod stuff like Steeroids or Flaming River - I am not a fan. The Woodward/Sweet racks are about $1000, but then you need a pump, reservoir, and lines. I'm sure SuperBuickGuy can offer some thoughts. Below are two photos of the Sweet rack in my 56, a photo of the circle-track style mount, a photo of the Woodward rack I originally had in the 56, and a photo of a Woodward rack in the Jag w/C6 suspension. Hope this helps.
Front Suspension 4.jpgSweet Rack 2.jpgSuspension 7.jpgSuspension 4.jpgIMG_0764.jpg
 
I don't have experience with Flaming river or Sweet to offer an opinion on either. The reasons I used the stock one was mostly price and availability. Not to knock what I've never used, however, I trust GM QC more then anyone else's.

That said, as it sprung a leaky seal within 300 miles of installation (it was used, 100k unit) - I may revisit that opinion.

and, I guess, another reason - I'm pushing the envelope on the rules for 'stock manufacturer mounting points' thus that also is a factor in why I'm where I'm at now. Of course, this is lurnin' so take my opinion as unsupported and mostly off the cuff
 
hi-lift tilt... hydraulic eventually
the ramps are for the Corvette.... everything else doesn't need them

if it weren't for bad luck

this isn't the problem
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this is
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if you're missing the issue - the mount tab is broken off.... wasn't in the box.
 
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