SBG's C3

Wilwood D8, the problems continue
So I put the $80 lines I bought from Summit on the back, and moved to the front (and now I have "spare" front brake lines as it was cheaper to buy all 4 then just 2...)
P7260015.jpg
looks nice, huh? :)
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this is the "after" picture. The before picture shows the caliper won't clear the rotor. I had to put an 1/8" spacer between the hub and the rotor to get it to fit together.
P7290008.jpg

Nice that they included bolts to put 2 of the calipers on.... would even be nicer if those bolts worked on 2 of the calipers. For those doing this update, save all your bolts, you'll need them. At least they're pretty?

Got the steering box back in the car
P7290001.jpg

front end reassembled
P7290003.jpg

To get a bit more lowering, I swapped the 1" block that was on top of the composite spring to the bottom
P7290017.jpg

and started removing the lower arms to put poly in instead of the rubber
P7290018.jpg
 
My wilwood calipers fit great. Maybe something else is out of spec.
 
rtj said:
My wilwood calipers fit great. Maybe something else is out of spec.
Click to expand...

I noticed that too, that 1/8" spacer may well be caused by having a rong set of rotors on there, the front and back have different rotors, the only difference being the thickness of the rotor where it fits over the hub, I dunno WHY, just is, I had a cow over it long ago and one phone call got me online to that fact....

:cussing::surrender:


I been thinking about that pad over my rear spring also, and thinking of when the weather FINALLY breaks here, I need remove the lower A Arms for the bushing replacement, so am thinking of cutting the 460 lbs VBP springs to lower the front a inch or so, ....

:)
 
mrvette said:
rtj said:
My wilwood calipers fit great. Maybe something else is out of spec.
Click to expand...

I noticed that too, that 1/8" spacer may well be caused by having a rong set of rotors on there, the front and back have different rotors, the only difference being the thickness of the rotor where it fits over the hub, I dunno WHY, just is, I had a cow over it long ago and one phone call got me online to that fact....
Click to expand...

Yes, the front and rear do have different thickness. Not sure why but it would cause the problem you describe
44d9e1191cc864.jpg
 
I thought about that - something out of spec on my car, but I had problems front and rear - and they both were the same problem, too tight. Granted, the front was a lot worse then the back. The rear I took ~.020 off the caliper tabs and they fit (not centered, mind you). FWIW, the reason I changed the rotors was the old rotors were worn almost to minimum spec, but all on the inside of the rotor... the 1/8" on the front pretty much centered the calipers.

about the offset - .010 is a long way from .125.

I simply wish wilwood had made the calipers so they could be shimmed to the correct position - would mean putting in a boatload of shims, but, what does that cost? 10 cents?

Oh well, at least they're pretty.... hope they work - certainly they'll work better then the leakers I took off :)
 
Do a search.... there was an issue with incorrectly fitting brake rotors not too long ago.
Do you still have the stock rotors? Can you measure the offset and compare ?

Many have installed these Wilwood calipers and did not report any issues... mine are still in the box
 
MYBAD79 said:
Do a search.... there was an issue with incorrectly fitting brake rotors not too long ago.
Do you still have the stock rotors? Can you measure the offset and compare ?

Many have installed these Wilwood calipers and did not report any issues... mine are still in the box
Click to expand...

I do, I'll have to take a picture to show what I've done with them :clap: they're quite useful in their new employment. :thumbs:... however, this edit... I just remembered why that won't help. The rotors aren't evenly worn - they wore almost exclusively on the inside (almost is the problem)... so I have no idea what the original hat depth was

I probably sounded whiney - really wasn't the point, I fixed the problems and have moved on with life. And I wouldn't be surprised if there was a problem with the rotors - iRotors.com is the worst company I've ever dealt with (which is actually pretty amazing given some of the yahoos I've run across in my 40 or so years of doing cars)
 
MYBAD79 said:
found my old rotor thread:
http://vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3013&highlight=ebay+rotors

difference front/rear is .080" (2mm)

Did your rotors have all the holes or did you have to drill like I did ??
Click to expand...




Which tells me you wanted to rivet them back on the hubs....why?? I have not done that ever, and my car came with no rivets on it, so at some time in dim past someone else agreed.....now I do spray paint a marker on the rotor to clock it to the hub......
 
mrvette said:
Which tells me you wanted to rivet them back on the hubs....why?? I have not done that ever, and my car came with no rivets on it, so at some time in dim past someone else agreed.....now I do spray paint a marker on the rotor to clock it to the hub......
Click to expand...

I tapped the holes and used countersunk bolts to bolt the rotors to the hub:

214990e4d711dc4.jpg
 
MYBAD79 said:
mrvette said:
Which tells me you wanted to rivet them back on the hubs....why?? I have not done that ever, and my car came with no rivets on it, so at some time in dim past someone else agreed.....now I do spray paint a marker on the rotor to clock it to the hub......
Click to expand...

I tapped the holes and used countersunk bolts to bolt the rotors to the hub:

214990e4d711dc4.jpg
Click to expand...

WHY??:bonkers:
 
Kid Vette said:
SuperBuickGuy said:
To get a bit more lowering, I swapped the 1" block that was on top of the composite spring to the bottom
P7290017.jpg

and started removing the lower arms to put poly in instead of the rubber
P7290018.jpg
Click to expand...

Tell me about the spring mount bolt in this picture. Is that a Bubba fix? :confused:
Click to expand...

Mr. Hamfist (the PO, I presume) overtightened the bolt holding the spring on; he then bought another cover and included it with the sale.... that one the holes were stripped then he fixed the holes with heli-coils. A bit of engineering later, I needed to get the car back on the road and I was adverse to driving it with 3 bolts holding on the spring - so necessity became the mother of invention.... now, you may call the mother of that invention a whore (lol), but she works quite well, and when I do rebuild the suspension with upper control arms; that fix will go the way of the dodo.... until then, I'll relish my redneck heritage; and ask mom for some spending money :clap:
 
the rear sway bar is too close... what to do?
P7310003.jpg

P7310004.jpg

so I worked on other stuff tonight while I continue to ponder and get feedback about what to do.

shiney bobble arrived
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of course with new parts come new problems, I had to remove the mechanical fan and put some electric fans on
P7310004-1.jpg

so I dunno, I want to fix the rear sway bar, but I also am planning on putting an aluminum pan under the back to keep from building pressure up behind the tail lights - so I don't want to get so crazy that it'll make that other task difficult.... thoughts?
 
Springs came. Cut 1/2 coil off, height seems a bit high now, but should settle nicely
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P8010003.jpg
I don't like the spacing to the fender from the tire, but that's the largest tire that will fully turn, and any lower and the car wouldn't make it off the 3" step into my shop.

Control arms
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bought the weld together brace kit
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welded it
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collecting bits for the next upgrade (not yet) - replace the poly joints on the sway bars.
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I buy my tabs by the sheet :) actually, it seems greed has taken suppliers of these silly little parts. The cheapest I could find shock tabs was $4.25. From my laser cutter, .50 each
P8020002.jpg
 
brace installed
P8020001-1.jpg
with 1/8" spacer, the caliper is still off... not sure I care enough to pay to machine a custom spacer
P8020002-1.jpg
Note the double stainless brake line. Why they didn't include a full length is beyond me (wilwood).
P8020004.jpg
Had to bend the roll bar in towards the center to give enough clearance for the wider tires (285/40 17)
P8020005.jpg
Moved 1" towards the center, it's just enough
P8020006.jpg
same story v.2
P8020007.jpg
 
It moves and stops again... woohooo
P8030007.jpg

so the brake rotors were backwards.... but it didn't make a difference re: needing shims behind the rotors. Ah well, alls well that ends - and bright side is those who read will note to look at that issue...

so this is a test
P8030004.jpg

I'm going to use heim joints in here - I had to bend the sway bar in to clear the tires, and of course, that meant moving the mount on the swing arm (welded to the side with a brace)

but if it doesn't hit or cause problems; I'll know that's where it's supposed to be

It does drive nice up and down my street - when the brakes are broken in, and I get the rest of the air out of the lines it should stop well

I'm also reconsidering the no PS situation - maybe I should consider upgrading to rack n pinion.... dunno, I think I'll drive it awhile first
 
Got the car aligned today - then took it for a brief country cruise (I live in the sticks).... oh good heavens that was fun

so on to painting

helpful tip du jour
an 11/16 6 point socket is the cat's pajamas for getting that triangle bolt off
P8060001.jpg

stripped, tomorrow more cleaning and sanding and booth building
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