Sidepipe mufflers

Making those things from scratch takes a lot of time, see, if you have all the spiral pieces cut and formed and set up in a jig, it's easy to weld them up, however fabricating a set from scratch...you must have very good connections or people owing you because they will be at it for hours and hours.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Making those things from scratch takes a lot of time, see, if you have all the spiral pieces cut and formed and set up in a jiog, it's easy to weld them up, however fabricating a since set from scratch...you must have very good connections or people owing you because they will be at it for hours and hours.
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That's why I think of a couple Thrush muffs in series for each side...I used to have a pair in place of the stock setup, years ago, but it was too loud, so reverted back....I have never actually tried two in series, but it's a tempting test.....about a 150 buck gamble here for my rear exit system....I would think it should fit/work fine for a sidepipe setup....
 
But the trush mufflers don't have a conical shaped entry, so they would restrict quite a bit unless you fabricate a smooth entry for them. Also, I doubt they will fit tight into the sidetubes.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
But the trush mufflers don't have a conical shaped entry, so they would restrict quite a bit unless you fabricate a smooth entry for them. Also, I doubt they will fit tight into the sidetubes.
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I forget if they were 21/4 or 2 1/2 in them, my present exhaust is 2 1/2 so maybe Rickey expanded them to fit, I dunno.....

I got nothing going on, going to run up to PEP boys and check out what they have now a daze....something to get my mind off this damn paint job....

and a excuse to DRIVE it....SUNSHINE today, first time in a freeking WEEK!!!

:banghead::devil:
 
Gene, Summit offers $25 Summit Bux with purchase of Dynomax Bullets (2.5" in/out glasspack with 4" OD is #WLK-24215), the muffler is $40 so 4 of them are $160 and you get $100 Summit Bux towards a future purchase.... good deal IMO...

Most of these mufflers are 4" OD, not sure but I believe the sidepipes are 4" OD as well, not 4" ID.

If you use a mild steel side tube, cut it lengthwise on that side that faces the rocker panel, spread it open so that the mufflers fit, slip the mufflers in place and weld the mufflers to the sidetubes while welding the gap ....

This should be an interesting project but I'm afraid you're better off just buying the maxflows which are just like what you want to build....

Maybe try 2 1/4" mufflers ???:confused:
 
TT, it would be nice to make some of the things you do. Its a talent that very few are born with! I'm a butcher when making thing.

Anyone seen any cfm figures on the moroso spirals? I used them to pass tech one time, had been running open side pipes. I didnt notice any loss, did like the sound. Had to reduce to the 3" intake. At Hillclimbs they like for the cars to be loud so the by standers can hear them coming. Its hard to control the spectators. So I was able to run open pipes. Not at track events.

They are now in the Ducati, I beat the stock stuffing and baffles out. The outside of the spirals where the same as the inside diameter of the factor mufflers. Cut the moroso's tappers out, drilled and bolted them,, fit right in. What a nice mellow sound. Plus the bike feels a slight bit stronger. But, just pushing one cylinder's exhaust out each pipe. When you look at the bike's muffler, you cant tell anything has been done to them, other than the two bolts on the inside of the pipes.
 
MYBAD79 said:
Gene, Summit offers $25 Summit Bux with purchase of Dynomax Bullets (2.5" in/out glasspack with 4" OD is #WLK-24215), the muffler is $40 so 4 of them are $160 and you get $100 Summit Bux towards a future purchase.... good deal IMO...

Most of these mufflers are 4" OD, not sure but I believe the sidepipes are 4" OD as well, not 4" ID.

If you use a mild steel side tube, cut it lengthwise on that side that faces the rocker panel, spread it open so that the mufflers fit, slip the mufflers in place and weld the mufflers to the sidetubes while welding the gap ....

This should be an interesting project but I'm afraid you're better off just buying the maxflows which are just like what you want to build....

Maybe try 2 1/4" mufflers ???:confused:
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I made some sidepipes from 4" id 5" od glass packs I'll dig up the plans and pics... I just used a set of BK Deans stainless sidepipe covers. I did CNC plasma some mounting tabs that use regular hooker style mounting.


[ame="http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3092249457833028510&hl=en"]http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=3092249457833028510&hl=en[/ame]
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Making those things from scratch takes a lot of time, see, if you have all the spiral pieces cut and formed and set up in a jig, it's easy to weld them up, however fabricating a set from scratch...you must have very good connections or people owing you because they will be at it for hours and hours.
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I'm not getting into an argument about this, as there is no need to. Just because you don't have the time to weld them up, doesn't mean that I don't. If I decide to weld them up myself in the end, instead of buying them, I will post pics on how I did it right here on vettemod to contribute to the forum.
 
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Here's a photo of these baffles (not mine, I found it on the net). There are nine of these baffles per side so you will have to cut eighteen 4" round pieces with a roughly 2" hole from stainless material - you'll need a good size sheet 18gauge stainless and the center tube... that's not going to be cheap and it sure is a lot of work.... I'm guessing that the material incl shipping is $200....

214a1e989c09d81.jpg
 
Yes, and the # of hole saws you need will not be limited to 1 either, going slowly, lots of lube/coolant to keep the saw from burning up. Only quick way is to have a bunch of them cut out of sheet, bend them yourself and buy the center tubes. Building the inserts I made cost me all of about an hour a piece. Also factor in that since these things are bent they are not cut perfectly round, the hole and the outside need to be ellipse shaped so when you fold they will fit over a round tube and in a round tube.

Then again it looks as if my comment/input is not appreciated. If you want to waste endless hours of your life on those things be my guest. Sometimes it's just more economical to buy stuff. Some people think everything is easy, just get a grinder and a mig machine and you can copy everything you see. This is not the case. Stainless does not weld easily with mig, with a low CO2 content mix it will have very poor wetting, the beads will just build up with little penetration. then there's the issue with warping. surely you want the things to actually still fit in the side tube, no sense in welding up a large tube with those vanes only to realize in the end it got more crooked than a boomerang. The pic above is testament on wetting, bead flow & penetration. There are large areas there where the bead doesn't flow out to the sides. Clearly visible and I'm willing to bet that the person who did those did not do that one as his first.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Yes, and the # of hole saws you need will not be limited to 1 either, going slowly, lots of lube/coolant to keep the saw from burning up. Only quick way is to have a bunch of them cut out of sheet, bend them yourself and buy the center tubes. Building the inserts I made cost me all of about an hour a piece. Also factor in that since these things are bent they are not cut perfectly round, the hole and the outside need to be ellipse shaped so when you fold they will fit over a round tube and in a round tube.

Then again it looks as if my comment/input is not appreciated. If you want to waste endless hours of your life on those things be my guest. Sometimes it's just more economical to buy stuff. Some people think everything is easy, just get a grinder and a mig machine and you can copy everything you see. This is not the case. Stainless does not weld easily with mig, with a low CO2 content mix it will have very poor wetting, the beads will just build up with little penetration. then there's the issue with warping. surely you want the things to actually still fit in the side tube, no sense in welding up a large tube with those vanes only to realize in the end it got more crooked than a boomerang. The pic above is testament on wetting, bead flow & penetration. There are large areas there where the bead doesn't flow out to the sides. Clearly visible and I'm willing to bet that the person who did those did not do that one as his first.
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Well, first off, I never said I was making them out of stainless steel. I am not doing it to save money, I think it would be a fun project. My last job was mig welding for 40 hours a week - I am no newb, and I weld like a pro. Regardless of that, you are correct more time would be put into them than it is worth. It is not economical. I am doing it for the thrill of it, not to save some change.
 
You know, thinking about this some more: my sidetubes are 304 stainless, if I made these baffles from stainless material I would want the baffles to be a nice interference fit inside the tubes so they have to be pressed or beaten in place so they won't rattle and don't need a hole drilled thru the tube.... probably a god idea to dress the OD of the baffles with a grider and have some off to one side and some off to the other side, that way it's going to be a tight fit...

If I were to make these for mild steel sidetubes I'd just tack weld them inside the tube to make sure it's not rattling.

I don't like the way these baffles are bolted in place.
 
Does the spiral muffler need to be tight to the tube? Say 3 1/2 inside the 4" tube would give around 3/16" all the way around the baffles.

If having that gap wouldn't hurt anything you could make them very easly out of 3 1/2" auger flighting.
 
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I know some people have used the cheap auger inserts sold by speedwaymotors. just secure with a bolt to weld on some bent tabs so that you have to hammer the thing home.
 
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