Spring check up

I had a problem with the pedal cable length in my 74 so I went with a braided Lokar throttle cable. Not only does it look good, but its adjustable.
 
Well, I had the frame repaired this AM. Welded up the cracks around the left spring pocket, welded around the bottom, and found a few cracks on the a arm shaft reinforcing. Welded them up both sides, and added more welding around the reinforcing. Good news is the welding on the pass side from last year has held, and no more cracks. I really feel the poor factory welding contributed to all this.
Next week, we are going to gusset some of the weak areas. I fell alot better now, and will wait and see how it all works out.
 
Jeff, can you maybe pix and maybe yellow marker just specifically where you found the bad spots?? or paint a better verbal pix??

I not sure just exactly where, and nervous maybe I missing something....


:smash::thumbs:
 
mrvette said:
Jeff, can you maybe pix and maybe yellow marker just specifically where you found the bad spots?? or paint a better verbal pix??

I not sure just exactly where, and nervous maybe I missing something....


:smash::thumbs:
Click to expand...

I second that. Would love to see where for a reference point.
 
Here are last years cracks. Pass side. cracked down to the spring pocket, and down, across, and up that 1/2" lip that rolls up where the spring goes in:
34a1f2146c2692.jpg
34a1f21472d791.jpg
34a1f214782eb2.jpg
I'll try and get some drivers side pics tomarrow.
 
Shit, what year is that again??, I hear there is some metal thickness reduction in the later sharks, and mine is a '72....yours there is a 80-81?

but I have been checking along the welds in the upper/lower pivots/mounts, and along the cross supports, not the metal frame sections themselves....

:surrender::bomb:
 
mrvette said:
Shit, what year is that again??, I hear there is some metal thickness reduction in the later sharks, and mine is a '72....yours there is a 80-81?
Click to expand...

81. I believe Marc said the later frames were lighter/cheaper. Maybe weight reduction? Maybe profit enhancement?:smash:
 
big2bird said:
mrvette said:
Shit, what year is that again??, I hear there is some metal thickness reduction in the later sharks, and mine is a '72....yours there is a 80-81?
Click to expand...

81. I believe Marc said the later frames were lighter/cheaper. Maybe weight reduction? Maybe profit enhancement?:smash:
Click to expand...

Change tool/die stamping over profit on that lo a volume?? doubtful.....more like .gov fuel requirements, maybe performance due to more .gov junk on board, gotta cut weight somewhere....:surrender: dunno even IF i'ts true really, we need maybe take a C caliper to Dmoroso's car and mine to find out for sure...would be a interesting project....he just down the street here, and burnt some rubber on my road there out front....

it would give a hint to compare the two frames right next to each other....:smash:
 
mrvette said:
Change tool/die stamping over profit on that lo a volume?? doubtful.....more li
Click to expand...

Remember Gene, the later frames ARE different. Tranny crossmembers and the batwing. Bumper mounts too. DOT may have mandated crush zones also.
 
Just off the cuff here but I could be wrong but lol. After the 73-74 Model Corvette that you could purchase with a Big Block maybe they felt since after that time they would no longer place a Big Block in a Corvette they did make the frame lighter?

I have a 73 of which I think everyone knows I am going to replace the SB with a BB and I did hope not to have to weld all of the guessets on there but I do have the book to do so if needed.
 
'74 was the last year for BB. The frame in my '65 was a '74 and cracked just like in Birds pics. I have also heard that the later frames were more prone to cracking.
 
big2bird said:
mrvette said:
Change tool/die stamping over profit on that lo a volume?? doubtful.....more li
Click to expand...

Remember Gene, the later frames ARE different. Tranny crossmembers and the batwing. Bumper mounts too. DOT may have mandated crush zones also.
Click to expand...

True, but not in so much of the overall shape and design....but that 'lighter' frame is interesting for 'crush zone' engineering....

IMO, I"d rather have a battleship frame, and a airbag to keep my snout off the wheel/dash...and keep my property damage to a minimum, and ease of repair on my side....
 
Regardless of thinner/thicker frames, what would cause cracks with the spreader bar? I'm thinking that it must have something to do with off center mounting of the bar (not centered on the crossmember). Maybe that causes a twist?
 
BBShark said:
Regardless of thinner/thicker frames, what would cause cracks with the spreader bar? I'm thinking that it must have something to do with off center mounting of the bar (not centered on the crossmember). Maybe that causes a twist?
Click to expand...

My personal theory. Without the bar, the frame can flex and move a tad. (That's the whole reason for the bar, right?) With the bar, it's quite rigid. If something has to give, that bar is not going to give ZERO. The weaker piece is the stock frame.
(Sorry. It's all I got).:)
 
Theory 2. Micro stress cracks were already there in a 30 year old car. The added bar accelerated the cracking. I never magnafluxed the frame, as I'm sure no one does.
 
I should also add I have a rather large front sway bar. Adding the spreader bar was like increasing the sway bar to 2". Stopping the tower flex "enhanced" the action of the bar. The car stays flat in any corner, no matter how hard, untill the tires give up.
The only one around here that I have riden in that corners better is Vettezukis, and he runs Nittos. I would love to have a set. His car is scarey fast on a curve.:twitch:
 
big2bird said:
Theory 2. Micro stress cracks were already there in a 30 year old car. The added bar accelerated the cracking. I never magnafluxed the frame, as I'm sure no one does.
Click to expand...

I was thinking along the same lines...how much fatigue does a 30 to 50 year old frame get?
 
15 years ago I went 360 VBP plastic spring, and 460 coild in front, 1.25? front bar and 3/4? VBP rear, KYB shocks....here about 5 years ago I took the bars down to nothing in back and only ~3/4-7/8 in front, then put a stock rear bar back on, leaving the thin front bar....put on some Bilsteins shortly after...smoothed out these potholes here on this sand bar pretty good...my street was repaved for some odd reason, but the rest of this hood is really suffering BAD..very strange how they do things....

at any rate, I added a front brace bar in there too, and that's how the car is now....I have a thicker front sway bar but find no reason to change it out...

I am wondering about you comment on that brace making up for some loss in sway bar thickness, interesting comment....

also, can you describe what Vettzuki has done to his car?? or get him on here??

:smash::clap:
 
SmokinBBC said:
big2bird said:
Theory 2. Micro stress cracks were already there in a 30 year old car. The added bar accelerated the cracking. I never magnafluxed the frame, as I'm sure no one does.
Click to expand...

I was thinking along the same lines...how much fatigue does a 30 to 50 year old frame get?
Click to expand...

I always ASSumed rust would do them in first, then I see posts of the lower A arm supports breaking free....:surrender::twitch: makes me paranoid, as having that rack in there, and all these rough roads...:eek:
 
mrvette said:
I always ASSumed rust would do them in first, then I see posts of the lower A arm supports breaking free....:surrender::twitch: makes me paranoid, as having that rack in there, and all these rough roads...:eek:
Click to expand...

Red Cherry once hit a speed bump at 70 MPH. (Late and dark). He TORE the lower mount clean off.:twitch:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top