TPI wiring diagram

[SuperBuickGuy]

AUJP = a 5.7L L98 Auto prom, that's a speed density setup.

You do know you will have to get a bin with VATS disabled right?

I should have the ARAP bin somewhere. Would be best to tweak the bin for the correct axle ratio too. What kind of injectors? Looks like painted multecs? I would change them right now, easiest to do with the engine out of the car. Get some modified Bosch IIIs from southbay. They are a day and night difference with those junk Multecs.

I am just wondering if someone could provide an English translation?

I bought the motor with the set up that should be all ready to run. It came with the sensors and new wiring loom. The injectors are Accel 23lb. This motor will be a DD so I was not looking for something to go racing. The engine builder sells these setups for mostly street rods and they are sold ready to run, What I need now it a wiring diagram in order to connect all the sensors correctly.

Maybe later after getting into this I will understand more than I currently do, which is very little.

english translation - you're screwed.... no seriously
In order to get the proper schematic, we need to know what car that motor and associated wiring harness came from. The discussion about type of injector, MAF, MAS, or Speed density is the same as asking what year that injection was built. The other advice you're getting has to do with reliability and the ability to start the car.

So. What year did the builder claim the fuel injection was built? Schematics are actually fairly easy to get; but honestly, Painless wiring makes a harness that simply requires ignition power, full-time power, and a ground to make it run.... were it me - I'd go that route.... However, this would not be complete without an example of the number of wires you might be dealing with

to make this project car of mine run, I simply have to connect the wires on the right and left to the wires in the middle (57 for those who are curious) :crap:

 

[mrvette]

AUJP = a 5.7L L98 Auto prom, that's a speed density setup.

You do know you will have to get a bin with VATS disabled right?

I should have the ARAP bin somewhere. Would be best to tweak the bin for the correct axle ratio too. What kind of injectors? Looks like painted multecs? I would change them right now, easiest to do with the engine out of the car. Get some modified Bosch IIIs from southbay. They are a day and night difference with those junk Multecs.

I am just wondering if someone could provide an English translation?

I bought the motor with the set up that should be all ready to run. It came with the sensors and new wiring loom. The injectors are Accel 23lb. This motor will be a DD so I was not looking for something to go racing. The engine builder sells these setups for mostly street rods and they are sold ready to run, What I need now it a wiring diagram in order to connect all the sensors correctly.

Maybe later after getting into this I will understand more than I currently do, which is very little.

english translation - you're screwed.... no seriously
In order to get the proper schematic, we need to know what car that motor and associated wiring harness came from. The discussion about type of injector, MAF, MAS, or Speed density is the same as asking what year that injection was built. The other advice you're getting has to do with reliability and the ability to start the car.

So. What year did the builder claim the fuel injection was built? Schematics are actually fairly easy to get; but honestly, Painless wiring makes a harness that simply requires ignition power, full-time power, and a ground to make it run.... were it me - I'd go that route.... However, this would not be complete without an example of the number of wires you might be dealing with

I beg to differ, to adapt the very early TPI stuff to a later setup, such as the speed density computer he shows, all you need to do if block the 9th injector with a pipe plug, like goes into freeze plugs in engine blocks....

22# injectors are fine, I wired mine with my own color codes and used junkyard pigtails/connectors and made up my own harness, twist and solder/tape/wrap all connections, put up in the black plastic spiral wrap, done....I have never worked with a painful wiring harness, I toss off on the name because last I hear those harnesses are something like 6-800 bux, that's prohibitive......to MY wallett, not when I can make up my own in a afternoon....:shocking::beer:

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

okay, I sit corrected, I didn't complete the translation :friends:.... my point does remain, though - that if you're having trouble understanding which TPI unit that you're working with, then you're going to really hate life when you realize that's the easy part (identifying).

Thus, I get the impression that in this particular application - while, yep, it's an expensive wiring harness; how expensive of paperweight do he own if he can't get it running? I am fearless with wiring now (see picture of MS3x wiring), but there is a 1986 Blazer that was my first FI system that I never did get running.... just thinking maybe it might be a good idea for him to get his system up n going - without the problems that DIY wiring harnesses have (and I still have trouble with occasionally - such as poor connections, grounds, faulty connectors, bad CPU bits.... and the list goes on). Or, put another way, climb an easy hill first before you conquer K2. :suspicious:

 

[Twin_Turbo]

TPI is very easy to wire up, that ECU with the corresponding harness will run any intake, even non tpi MPFI. NOT a problem. Standard sensors and wiring. Only thing is indeed to block off the 9th injector and watch the fan switchgin, some bins have the fan switched i reverse so you have to either change that or wire it up differently (some have a ground strap tucked away in the harness that will ru the fan)

 

[mrvette]

TPI is very easy to wire up, that ECU with the corresponding harness will run any intake, even non tpi MPFI. NOT a problem. Standard sensors and wiring. Only thing is indeed to block off the 9th injector and watch the fan switchgin, some bins have the fan switched i reverse so you have to either change that or wire it up differently (some have a ground strap tucked away in the harness that will ru the fan)

Marck, read that several times, I don't get what you are saying....

 

[BangkokDean]

You should buy mu multiport easier to change injectors, bigger manifold, also polished, comes w/ wiring...ready to run (and a weatherpack ECU)

Thanks TT, who sells this setup and for how much for the complete unit with ECU and dizzy?That would look good in my Corvette.

The unit I have will work better for the LPG system I am having installed. The LPG injectors will be all be concealed under the TPI top. I beleive the mods you indicated above are already done to the ECU as this setup with motor and the 700R4 trans should be ready to run as is.

The LPG system is quite common over here that is why I will be adding it to this motor, this will be in my DD 56 pickup.

Like I said all I need at this time is a wiring diagram. I may require more info if there is a problem getting the system working later.

I am learning as I go here.

The truck project is now in the brake, fuel and LPG line process.

 

[BangkokDean]

AUJP = a 5.7L L98 Auto prom, that's a speed density setup.

You do know you will have to get a bin with VATS disabled right?

I should have the ARAP bin somewhere. Would be best to tweak the bin for the correct axle ratio too. What kind of injectors? Looks like painted multecs? I would change them right now, easiest to do with the engine out of the car. Get some modified Bosch IIIs from southbay. They are a day and night difference with those junk Multecs.

I am just wondering if someone could provide an English translation?

I bought the motor with the set up that should be all ready to run. It came with the sensors and new wiring loom. The injectors are Accel 23lb. This motor will be a DD so I was not looking for something to go racing. The engine builder sells these setups for mostly street rods and they are sold ready to run, What I need now it a wiring diagram in order to connect all the sensors correctly.

Maybe later after getting into this I will understand more than I currently do, which is very little.

english translation - you're screwed.... no seriously
In order to get the proper schematic, we need to know what car that motor and associated wiring harness came from. The discussion about type of injector, MAF, MAS, or Speed density is the same as asking what year that injection was built. The other advice you're getting has to do with reliability and the ability to start the car.

So. What year did the builder claim the fuel injection was built? Schematics are actually fairly easy to get; but honestly, Painless wiring makes a harness that simply requires ignition power, full-time power, and a ground to make it run.... were it me - I'd go that route.... However, this would not be complete without an example of the number of wires you might be dealing with

to make this project car of mine run, I simply have to connect the wires on the right and left to the wires in the middle (57 for those who are curious) :crap:

Maybe when I get the motor in the truck and start installing the harness it will be easier to take pictures and get advise then.Thanks for the info above.:drink:

 

[Twin_Turbo]

You should buy mu multiport easier to change injectors, bigger manifold, also polished, comes w/ wiring...ready to run (and a weatherpack ECU)

Thanks TT, who sells this setup and for how much for the complete unit with ECU and dizzy?That would look good in my Corvette.

The unit I have will work better for the LPG system I am having installed. The LPG injectors will be all be concealed under the TPI top. I beleive the mods you indicated above are already done to the ECU as this setup with motor and the 700R4 trans should be ready to run as is.

The LPG system is quite common over here that is why I will be adding it to this motor, this will be in my DD 56 pickup.

Like I said all I need at this time is a wiring diagram. I may require more info if there is a problem getting the system working later.

I am learning as I go here.

The truck project is now in the brake, fuel and LPG line process.

Hotrodlane sells it for a bunch of $$$$


could be that the bin is custom, easiest way to check is open the little cover and snap a pic of the inside, then post it.

 

[BangkokDean]

Here is the picture TT, can you tell by looking at them?

 

[mrvette]

That is an aftermarket cal pak/chip never seen any numbers written on the tan base before, so that's aftermarket, and the GM chip showing white through the blue cover there has always been a silver sticker with some numbers on it.....this one is plain white, again saying someone burnt the chip and put it in the cal pak......or possible reburnt a stock chip, as they were soldered in place from the factory.....
many times they are cut/unsoldered and a full socket put in then the chip....

methinks that is ready to go .....

:yahoo:

 

[Twin_Turbo]

does it say aujp on the little sticker in the left window on that calpak?? I can't see it, it looks like a white blank sticker. Should say aujp, if not someone went the hard way and soldered the prom to the original connections. If it DOES say aujp, it's the original prom and you will have a vats issue as well as others, it will not run without avats column & interpretor.

See here where it displays the prom ID on these? (under Delco)

 

[mrvette]

does it say aujp on the little sticker in the left window on that calpak?? I can't see it, it looks like a white blank sticker. Should say aujp, if not someone went the hard way and soldered the prom to the original connections. If it DOES say aujp, it's the original prom and you will have a vats issue as well as others, it will not run without avats column & interpretor.

I dunno what you mean, about that last line there.....VATS is a automatic delete by any programmer, unsure about the rest....

interpretor? programmed in Germany???

Russia?? China, yeh, most probably anymore....:surrender: