Weight reduction: Running out of ideas.

Try the Ruggles - I found them easy enough to use - after struggling with some digital postal scales (400#). They were error prone with the slightest surface imperfection. The shop had a small divot we didn't see and struggled all day to correct cross weight, but it was data input error! Now in my garage and better floor. But still like the Ruggles.

Yes, the Sports Renault can be quite tail happy, and under powered. I'll post in separate thread once I get the engine back together. Plan is get it going, race it once/twice, then sell it. Full court press on the 'vette.

Cheers - Jim
 
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Starter weight and fitment questions.

I'm currently running a C4 PMGR (Denso) starter. It's 10.25# versus about 18# for the original Delco starter. I've seen some aftermarket starters that are about 7.5#, and that got me thinking about some of the other GM PMGR starters used in cars and trucks. I'm curious about the weight on those, but also if any of them fit a 153 tooth flywheel. Anyone know any details about the non-Denso/non-C4 type starters I'm referring to?

Thanks.
 
I’ve bought a few of these Chevrolet Performance High Torque Mini Starter Small Block and Big Block Chevy. Says 10 lbs.

I bought a csr for the camaro, I’ll check the model no.
 
CSR 100spd. Starts the car instantly but their idea of high torque mini starter looks like 12 lbs on the only weight I could find. Sorry.
 
Just wondering...

have you considered replacing the rear window with Lexan? A bit of a job, but there might a bit of savings (weight) there, and you could kill 2 birds..
12695ea99b880787e.jpg

These could dump air into the rear deck when open - and when closed - might leak! ;)

Cheers - Jim
 
Is the 68-73 removable window actually glass? Or is it already some kind of plastic? It doesnt feel like glass when I give it the "tap test" and feels lighter than I would expect for glass. I never have mine in anyway, but its all scratched up and would be an easy piece to make out of lexan if it would take out a pound or two
 
vette427sbc said:
Is the 68-73 removable window actually glass? Or is it already some kind of plastic? It doesnt feel like glass when I give it the "tap test" and feels lighter than I would expect for glass. I never have mine in anyway, but its all scratched up and would be an easy piece to make out of lexan if it would take out a pound or two
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Whenever I tap that window, it always sounds like plastic. It doesn't have the "sharper" ring of actual glass.

I always remove the t-tops and rear glass when I run the rare autocross, but keep those all on during track days. Quieter drive, and an extra illusion of safety.
 
rtj said:
You probably saw this, but if not, it is under 8 lbs:

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Chevy-Lightweight-Starter-1-0-kW,2400.html

Good reviews.
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I took a look at that. I do like the stated weight. But, real life kicks in. I can't justify the cost of that starter for the 2.75# weight reduction compared to my C4 starter. I looked around some more, and found a DB Electrical starter that is .6# heavier than the Speedway piece, but is $130 cheaper, and apparently has 70% more power.

My net result is slightly over 2 pounds lighter, and I can probably sell the C4 starter to get most of this purchase price back.

I'm just finishing up getting the car back together, so hopefully tomorrow I can see if this new starter was worth the effort.

I appreciate your post. Even if I can't afford the absolute lightest parts, it does give me a metric to compare the parts I can actually afford.
 
How about this. The U shaped frame that holds the Headlight door has two struts that run between the two lower bolts on the actuator and the "legs" of the U frame. They are about 8-9 inches long, about 5/16 or 3/8 dia. steel rods and there are 4 of them. Quick calculation is about 1/4lb each. Remove them or replace w/ aluminum?

Just a thought. I'm installing headlight assemblies right now and it kind of struck me that these weren't very useful. In fact you have to loosen them to tweak the U frame forward legs into place. Then the rods don't fit very well. When tightened, they probably put more stress on the U frame than act as a gusset.
 
BBShark said:
How about this. The U shaped frame that holds the Headlight door has two struts that run between the two lower bolts on the actuator and the "legs" of the U frame. They are about 8-9 inches long, about 5/16 or 3/8 dia. steel rods and there are 4 of them. Quick calculation is about 1/4lb each. Remove them or replace w/ aluminum?

Just a thought. I'm installing headlight assemblies right now and it kind of struck me that these weren't very useful. In fact you have to loosen them to tweak the U frame forward legs into place. Then the rods don't fit very well. When tightened, they probably put more stress on the U frame than act as a gusset.
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I'll take a look at them. Thanks.
 
Mybad79 gutted some doors and really dropped a lot. I wonder what gutted doors with carbon fiber skins would weigh. Then those massive barn door hinges could go. I’ll search maybe someone already make them for drag cars.

Edit
https://www.dynamiccorvettes.com/pr...r-skins-pair-with-handle-door-lock-delete-c3/

Cosmetic mostly.


They sell fiberglass bumpers and grille trim. Also custom image makes them. Probably mentioned earlier.
 
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rtj said:
Mybad79 gutted some doors and really dropped a lot. I wonder what gutted doors with carbon fiber skins would weigh. Then those massive barn door hinges could go. I’ll search maybe someone already make them for drag cars.

Edit
https://www.dynamiccorvettes.com/pr...r-skins-pair-with-handle-door-lock-delete-c3/

Cosmetic mostly.


They sell fiberglass bumpers and grille trim. Also custom image makes them. Probably mentioned earlier.
Click to expand...

Swapping out the door hinges for lighter pieces is on my to-do list. I need to borrow/rent some hinges in the near future so that I can do the jig and fabrication work without taking the car out of commission for the duration (my fabrication projects NEVER go as quickly as I think they should).
 
Coolant expansion tank weight?

Anyone know the empty weight of the early C3 aluminum expansion tank (until I get a free moment to pull mine off)?

It's about perfect weather for roaming the local junkyards, so I might just carry my small capacity weight scale with me on the next trip to see if I can find a slightly lighter replacement.

I'm assuming I may have to look around a lot, as it seems that some/most modern tanks are after the radiator cap (ie: unpressurized), rather than before the cap (pressurized).

I suppose I also need to figure out the expansion volume needed for my size cooling system.
 
Maybe a Plastic Tank? A lot of cars seem to use those - maybe not so "flash" looking - but gotta' be light weight. I could measure the one in the SR. Bet it holds a quart of coolant as overflow/reservoir--maybe more.

Check out the Dorman universal - 8 bucks:
17191312_dor_603001_pri_larg.jpg


Cheers - Jim
 
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