Weight reduction: Running out of ideas.

Maybe a Race-Technology DL-1 with a Dash unit, MoTec, or AimMXL dash? If you have electronic sensors they almost might be plug and play. I just weighed my RT dash & main module. Wait for it... 15.8 ounces. Dump the entire stock dash and replace with only what you need. Oh, but there is an investment to consider, but you'd have a lighter wallet too! ;)

Cheers - Jim
 
This guy has some good info. Shows how he made the oven for $200 in another video.

He gives weight savings for an import at the end. 40lb.

Maybe when I retire.....

 
How can I do a non-destructive test to tell an aluminum piece from a titanium piece? I have a few lightweight bolts that I suspect are aluminum, but short of doing an Archimedes' type test, what's the least destructive way of figuring out what I have here?

Thanks for any suggestions.
 
“The hardness of titanium is lower than some steels, so it scratches easier than most steel. However, titanium is much much harder than gold, platinum and aluminum.”

They sell cheap test kits, but I would try a spring loaded punch first. I see talk about spark test.
 
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BBShark said:
Spark test will work. Also aluminum is lighter than titanium
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You are correct. I mistakingly remembered/thought that the weights were reasonably similar (when I originally posted), and that's why I couldn't figure out an easy (and non-destructive) way to tell the two metals apart. A couple hours ago my first mentor at work corrected my memory (the specific weights are noticeably different) and suggested I weigh a similar size steel bolt and compare the weights. (Aluminum bolts should be less than half the weight of a steel bolt, while a titanium bolt would be slightly more than half.) The scale reading was less than half, so I've got an odd assortment of aluminum bolts that I'd like to find a purpose for.
 
Here is the lightest 911. Thought he went obsessive-compulsive. :)


 
Guess Norval has an English cousin?
Anyone reckon what technique/method for the holes? Hole saw or plasma cutter with a template?
Does it pass the WOF (Warranty of Fitness)? Some places get pretty sticky about inspections etc.
Thankfully not here in the Free State!

Cheers - Jim
 
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:) :)

Sheet metal hole punches make nice holes. But only on flat plate.

I saw that a week ago but hesitated to post it. Definitely doesn’t fit in the “still looks stock” category.
 
Norval and TT both attacked the chassis. TT a bit more conservative than Norval.
Doubt a sheet metal punch would profit much there. But great for door skin etc as he has done.
There must be a "tool" that can work a chassis - a heap of opportunity there.
Mid you, be judicious and have a cage.
 
I bought one of these off Amazon to Johnny joint my ta’s.

It is all set up in the mill….

Annular Cutter JESTUOUS 3/4 Inch Weldon Shank 2 Cutting Diameter 2 Cutting Depth

They look good in videos.

I bought rock jock joints.

Plus, mag base drills are getting more affordable! For chassis holes.
 
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They have some really nice products
I have purchased some items from them, fabulous company to work with
just a shame they make most of the really cool stuff for the c-2 and not the c-3
 
Well, my guess is the c2 guys spend more. :)

If you are on FB you can follow them. They post daily it seems.

Eventually the c2 products will spill over to c3.
 
rtj said:
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I wish I had the ability to do stuff in carbon fiber, but that's not a skill set that I possess at the moment. I'd like to do several of the body panels in CF if that was a possibility for me.

Regarding the radiator support in the video, I did a replacement in aluminum about a dozen years ago as a first TIG project. Was slow going because I was still learning, but it ended up about five pounds lighter than the original steel piece, and once I put a coat of semi-gloss black paint over it, no one has noticed the change.

The car is currently at about 2695# (it weighed 2720 on the scales a couple years ago, but a Lithium battery and a few more aluminum substitute pieces have taken 25-26 additional pounds off.

Latest project is modifying a C5 aluminum LCA crossmember to replace my steel crossmember I fabricated about fifteen years ago when I put a narrowed C4 suspension under the '69. I'll need to seriously section and re-weld this C5 part to make it fit. Right now it looks like I might be able to shave about 8-10 pounds off with this swap out.
 
I remember the aluminum rad support, it turned out really good. Glad to hear you are still whittling away the pounds.

I bought a front clip last year and the seller claimed it was 19lbs. I’m going to weigh it soon. Looking at the construction the cloth (mat) used is yellow and appears to be 2 layers. So I’m thinking it is Kevlar. Looks like the front end of a Kevlar car.

I keep watching street banditos on YouTube. They do cf parts and make it look easy.

Overview.

 
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