What benefits do slotted & drilled rotors offer?

:clap: Want good brakes on a shark?? O ring stainless lines calipers, eliminate that brake light switch, and do a Hydroboost conversion....

stop on a dime with 9 cents change....

:shocking::shocking::beer:
 
What kind of paint can be used on the hat area to keep them from rusting?

Also how hard is it to rebuild these calipers with o-rings or whatever they use?

Best way to bleed all brake fluid out of the entire system? Best fluid to use with (has ABS) I have heard you can't use silicone brake fluid with this system, is this true or false?

Good or bad stainless lines?

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these are calipers I will be using but I would like to make them nice again, not interest in red/pink/black paint hahaha ... however getting a nice aluminum color back and then clear coating would be nice if clear can stand up to and heat that is present on the calipers.

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:clap: Want good brakes on a shark?? O ring stainless lines calipers, eliminate that brake light switch, and do a Hydroboost conversion....

stop on a dime with 9 cents change....

:shocking::shocking::beer:

Only one problem, well two actually .... This isn't a shark and ain't no way I'm gonna be the first to attempt to put hydroboost on a C4. I just think that would be taking a few steps back towards the days of flintstone braking systems.
 
Jeff, I'm with you. But you have to remember GENE is a certified hydroboost leg-humper. If vacuum sucked (no pun intended) so bad, they wouldn't still be using it on the new cars.
 
:clap: Want good brakes on a shark?? O ring stainless lines calipers, eliminate that brake light switch, and do a Hydroboost conversion....

stop on a dime with 9 cents change....

:shocking::shocking::beer:

Of course it will. That boat anchor weighs so much, you can't even go fast.
Hydroboost is for trucks and Winnebagos. Rip it off, and install it on that Clamper.
(The dual rears too). :hissyfit:
 
I have the plastic PBR booster that I vacuum tested and it seems to hold vacuum fine. My problem is more related to metal to metal pads, losing fluid in the front master cylinder reservoir, possible sticking calipers since the front brakes seem to hardly work.

I always see fluid spot under right front of car so this is probably the brake leak. I just don't see a source for the leak so perhaps it is the caliper pistons leaking.

So I will just freshen up these J55 calipers. Sure there are better braking options but J55 has to be better then the original paper thin 12" stockers.

It's time for a complete brake overhaul not a hydroboost.
 
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glass beading will clean those calipers up

I use those goodrich brake lines too, no problems.

Some inox weld spray will work perfectly on the hats.

Those calipers are super easy to rebuild, just a square o ring and a dust seal, that's it. Get some pins and pin clips while you're at it
 
I like red calipers for some reason. Even the newer vettes have them. ;) Duplicolor makes a nice caliper painting kit, it's available in silver, black, red, yellow, blue, etc. It really cleans things up and will keep them from corroding in the future. Silver would be my choice if you wanted a "stealth" paint job on them. For the rotor hats, I masked off the clamping surfaces and used the leftover cast-color paint that I used on my water pump. It seems to be holding up OK.
 
:clap: Want good brakes on a shark?? O ring stainless lines calipers, eliminate that brake light switch, and do a Hydroboost conversion....

stop on a dime with 9 cents change....

:shocking::shocking::beer:

Of course it will. That boat anchor weighs so much, you can't even go fast.
Hydroboost is for trucks and Winnebagos. Rip it off, and install it on that Clamper.
(The dual rears too). :hissyfit:

Clamper has it's own HB setup, it too actually stops....I put a aluminum m/cyl on the vette because that large dia. truck m/cyl I tried with the old sucky 'booster' was WAY too much ....so I went aluminum aftermarket OEM diameter again...and sure enuff, It's fine....MY vette stops good with about 2" of pedal deflection, the way GOD intended, not some 4+" and to the floor, damn nearly....all I can do is post my observations guys....

:hissyfit::gurney::drink:
 
....all I can do is post my observations guys....
:hissyfit::gurney::drink:

I probably have no business lecturing you since i'm a hair from being banned.....but, the guys get weary of every brake related thread and some not related to brakes becoming about your hydroboost, over and over and over and over and over and over..... They all get taken off topic.

The question is "What benefits do slotted and drilled rotors offer?"

Street pads still outgas in my opinon so there is a very good reason to use drilled/slotted rotors. Racing pads don't outgas but they're so hard they wear a rotor out as fast as the pad wears.

The guys cracking rotors are getting them red hot. They're cracking rotors that are not drilled too.
 
Back in the mid eighties I used a "paint" product called Steel It to put a stainless steel coating on some motorcycle parts. It was magniciently bullet prrof looking as good as new for years. I don't recall now but it may have been heat set. Do a Google to see if it is still around as it may be the solution for those calipers.

What kind of paint can be used on the hat area to keep them from rusting?

Also how hard is it to rebuild these calipers with o-rings or whatever they use?

Best way to bleed all brake fluid out of the entire system? Best fluid to use with (has ABS) I have heard you can't use silicone brake fluid with this system, is this true or false?

Good or bad stainless lines?

DSCF0423.jpg
DSCF0424.jpg

these are calipers I will be using but I would like to make them nice again, not interest in red/pink/black paint hahaha ... however getting a nice aluminum color back and then clear coating would be nice if clear can stand up to and heat that is present on the calipers.

DSCF0412.jpg
DSCF0416.jpg
 
....all I can do is post my observations guys....
:hissyfit::gurney::drink:

I probably have no business lecturing you since i'm a hair from being banned.....but, the guys get weary of every brake related thread and some not related to brakes becoming about your hydroboost, over and over and over and over and over and over..... They all get taken off topic.

The question is "What benefits do slotted and drilled rotors offer?"

I have to agree here.:suicide: Gene, save it for a hydroboost thread, and since no one will ever start one here, it will quietly recede from brainwashing.
 
Back in the mid eighties I used a "paint" product called Steel It to put a stainless steel coating on some motorcycle parts. It was magniciently bullet prrof looking as good as new for years. I don't recall now but it may have been heat set. Do a Google to see if it is still around as it may be the solution for those calipers.

Interesting

http://steel-it.com/
 
It's not the first time this subject comes up.
I remember Norval drilling his rotors and claiming they were braking fine.

and heres an interesting answer I copied at ******** forum from one of our own member before he was banned there.



These are visual improvements, modern pads (street type stuff) don't outgas any meaningful amount, the holes and slots are purely visual. What they do affect however is rotor mass, the rotor mass is the heat storage buffer when braking (and the heat gets dissipated by air pumping through rotor from inside out, hence the vanes) so a rotor with less mass will run at a higher temperature under severe braking. More mass in the rotor is a good thing to lower the running temp. furthermore drilled holes may crack under severe braking (temperatureS) the expensive holed rotors have the holes cast into them. So if you want it for looks, go with slots but if you want brake performance I'd say go with plain rotors.

And I agree with him...
 
I did some searching. There is a SAE paper on it where engineers did some testing.

http://papers.sae.org/2006-01-0691/

Below is someone providing a summary of the findings.

There are many claims as to the benefits of drilled vs slotted rotors on stopping power. This guide is intended to provide some facts about drilled and slotted rotors. As a member of the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), I was pleased to see a paper "The Effect of Rotor Crossdrilling on Brake Performance" by two GM engineers published in 2006. They examined three vehicle platforms with cross-drilled rotors vs standard rotors to measure convection cooling capability, fade characteristics, wet braking, pedal feel and lining wear. The result is summarized as follows:

1.For the sports sedan, the coefficient of friction was 21% higher for drilled rotors than standard front rotors at 340F and higher using 15 brake snubs at 62mph. The track simulated 124 mph fade test showed 37% better brake output for drilled rotors. The drilled rotor brake temperature was about 150 degrees cooler.
2.For the performance car, the coefficient of friction was significantly higher for drilled rotors especially at high temperature.
3.Wet braking at high pedal pressure was the same for drilled or standard rotors. Wet braking is not significantly improved by drilled rotors.
4.Pedal force was much more consistent with drilled rotors over the brake temperature range. That is, to stop at the same deceleration rate, the driver does not need to modulate pedal pressure based on different brake temperatures. This reduces driver fatigue and improves brake response.
The authors also reported that drilled rotors prevent pad resin glazing on the rotor. So we now have solid evidence that drilled rotors have benefits over standard rotors. However, I have not found any published paper to show how slots affect brake output. So I reviewed inertial dynamometer tests using ISO NWI 26867 from Link Testing in Detroit with slotted rotors vs standard rotors. The results showed no significant difference in the coefficient of friction during the fade sections, hot stop section or pedal sensitivity portion of the test. My hypothesis is that slotted rotors do not contribute to rotor cooling whereas drilled rotors improve convection heat transfer to cool rotors and reduce brake fade. I should also point out that the pad lining wear for the slotted rotor was very severe during the test, i.e. the pad was chewed up over 20% more than the lining with stock rotors. While I believe that slots will help remove gas and debri from under the pad, I am not sure that this has a significant effect on brake torque for normal street driving. Perhaps the effect of slotted rotors is more significant on the race track, and conversely, I believe that drilled rotors are better for street and highway driving. For most drivers, I recommend drilled rotors over slotted rotors, and this conclusion is supported by the fact that Corvette, Ford GT, Porsche, Mercedes and BMW come with OEM drilled rotors. Brakemotive store
 

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