Wiring Harness Repair

I have a complete 82 harness with all the connectors and crap that is on it.

What harness of yours was burned? Just the engine harness? Mine has been fiddled with a little, just the IAC drivers have been rewired but it's easy enough to wire back to stock. Need it?
 
I have a complete 82 harness with all the connectors and crap that is on it.

What harness of yours was burned? Just the engine harness? Mine has been fiddled with a little, just the IAC drivers have been rewired but it's easy enough to wire back to stock. Need it?

Marck,

Thanks for the offer. My Injector wires on the front TB were melted together. BB pointed me to NAPA for the correct replacement. I think that I am going to make a new one from scratch just to rule everything out. One of my IAC motor plugs was also damaged. When getting my parts list up for the motor plug, I was shock that there was not a ground on that circuit. I need to look at that closer. There were 3 other grounds tied together on the other misc circuits to the Air Pump.
 
Don't go to Radio shack to buy supplies,that will cost you a fortune in the end. If the town i live in has a Fastenal then a town like JAX should have one or something similar. And then there is Grainger and McMaster-carr,order online from them,these places are cheaper and you can buy in bulk some serious bulk.
And those connectors that TT posted,they are a huge time saver :thumbs:
 
I can send you a copy of Boeing's standard wiring practices manual. If you can find anything in there it's a foolproof and very permanent way to repair a wire. Any wire.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I had all but a few of the connectors dropped out of Texas. They had all of the Weather Pack fittings in stock that I needed. I am going to make a new harness with new wires & connectors. The only splicing will be for the grounds in the common circuits, & the AIC wires that are in parallel.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I had all but a few of the connectors dropped out of Texas. They had all of the Weather Pack fittings in stock that I needed. I am going to make a new harness with new wires & connectors. The only splicing will be for the grounds in the common circuits, & the AIC wires that are in parallel.

Dbuster, like I said b-4.....pay super attention to just exactly WHERE in that 4 pin plug that each wire goes, and make sure it agrees with your wiring diagram....sometimes I have found various connectors to have the colors in a differant positon, and the motor not respond well at ALL.....

so one plug could actually have the wires reversed over another....so the motors are actually backwards when the codes say it's correct....

don't ask....please.....:suicide::tomato::smash::eek:
 
Thanks for the help guys. I had all but a few of the connectors dropped out of Texas. They had all of the Weather Pack fittings in stock that I needed. I am going to make a new harness with new wires & connectors. The only splicing will be for the grounds in the common circuits, & the AIC wires that are in parallel.

Dbuster, like I said b-4.....pay super attention to just exactly WHERE in that 4 pin plug that each wire goes, and make sure it agrees with your wiring diagram....sometimes I have found various connectors to have the colors in a differant positon, and the motor not respond well at ALL.....

so one plug could actually have the wires reversed over another....so the motors are actually backwards when the codes say it's correct....

don't ask....please.....:suicide::tomato::smash::eek:


No Problem .....:suicide::tomato::smash::eek
 
A repair method I've used before, or when making something from scratch is if you can't get a new plug but the original one is ok: remove the connectors from within the plug with a little jeweller's screwdriver, carefully unfold the crimp and remove the damaged/broken wire. Get your new piece of wire, tin the end with solder then re-crimp it back into the original connector then solder it to the connector as well (in case you weakened it opening the crimp). Then, slide it back into the plug - bingo, new wire.

I've also hacked out lumps of harness from cars in wrecking yards rather than buy a roll or wire when I only need a few feet...

Probably sounds gash but it works for me :drink:
 
Thanks Wayne,

I just checked UPS, and it looks like all of the new connectors & pins should be here tommorow. I just want to make sure that I put these electrical gremlins behind me.:banghead: If my IAC motors start working right again, it will be worth it. One of Bird's shortcuts said that they could make me one, but it would be a prototype & 10 to 12 weeks down the road. That's just to much downtime. Hope fully by the time I get thru with the harness, I will have my valve covers PC'd as well.
 
A repair method I've used before, or when making something from scratch is if you can't get a new plug but the original one is ok: remove the connectors from within the plug with a little jeweller's screwdriver, carefully unfold the crimp and remove the damaged/broken wire. Get your new piece of wire, tin the end with solder then re-crimp it back into the original connector then solder it to the connector as well (in case you weakened it opening the crimp). Then, slide it back into the plug - bingo, new wire.

I've also hacked out lumps of harness from cars in wrecking yards rather than buy a roll or wire when I only need a few feet...

Probably sounds gash but it works for me :drink:


How long is it before yours is air worthy?:beer:
 
How long is it before yours is air worthy?:beer:
Hmmm... how long's a piece of string? Hopefully, not too much longer. I have to finish fabricating the transmission cooler lines (I bought a Snapon double flaring kit but it hasn't arrived yet), fit the fan, pulley and belts, assemble the gubbins in the distributor cap (which I distinctly left in a safe place than now elludes me) and fit the distributor, make up a set of ignition leads, cut to size and fit the rad hoses (the metal types), connect the exhaust back up to the manifolds and put a battery in it! Hypothetically, a day or two's work. Realistically, probably a few weeks.

I put my chrome hood hinges on today and replaced the hood support with a gas strut. I was figuring around 2 hours work?

I wanted to put stainless bolts in the hood hinges but didn't have any the right size left, so I ducked out to a shop that's close buy to get some. The only way I know to get there has the road dug up and they're not letting anyone through. So what should have taken me half an hour stretched into one and half hours before I was back home with some bolts. I didn't want to remove the hood so I was going to replace the hinges one at a time while my son supported the hood. I started undoing the first hinge bolt and when it was about halfway out, it started getting real tight. I gave them all a squirt of Kroil, left it while I had a cuppa then started turning the first bolt again. It was turning nicely then snapped off!! The damn thing had rusted almost through around the shank just under the head. After messing around with vice grips and just twisting both protruding ends off, I ended up drilling the bolt out. But of course, to get the drill in there, I had to remove the hood. The other bolts all came out ok though. While I had the hood off, I removed the original hood support so I could fit the gas strut. Got the new hinges and the hood back on, pulled the bottom part off the old hood support and bolted it back on. Drilled some holes where the gas strut attached to the hood, went to rivet the bracket on and realised the riveter had a rivet tail jammed in the workings. Took me an hour to pull the damn thing apart before I could use it.

So, nothing you guys haven't been subjected to before but what I thought would take me 2 hours ended up taking me over 5 and it was 116*F today :cussing:
 
How long is it before yours is air worthy?:beer:
Hmmm... how long's a piece of string? Hopefully, not too much longer. I have to finish fabricating the transmission cooler lines (I bought a Snapon double flaring kit but it hasn't arrived yet), fit the fan, pulley and belts, assemble the gubbins in the distributor cap (which I distinctly left in a safe place than now elludes me) and fit the distributor, make up a set of ignition leads, cut to size and fit the rad hoses (the metal types), connect the exhaust back up to the manifolds and put a battery in it! Hypothetically, a day or two's work. Realistically, probably a few weeks.

I put my chrome hood hinges on today and replaced the hood support with a gas strut. I was figuring around 2 hours work?

I wanted to put stainless bolts in the hood hinges but didn't have any the right size left, so I ducked out to a shop that's close buy to get some. The only way I know to get there has the road dug up and they're not letting anyone through. So what should have taken me half an hour stretched into one and half hours before I was back home with some bolts. I didn't want to remove the hood so I was going to replace the hinges one at a time while my son supported the hood. I started undoing the first hinge bolt and when it was about halfway out, it started getting real tight. I gave them all a squirt of Kroil, left it while I had a cuppa then started turning the first bolt again. It was turning nicely then snapped off!! The damn thing had rusted almost through around the shank just under the head. After messing around with vice grips and just twisting both protruding ends off, I ended up drilling the bolt out. But of course, to get the drill in there, I had to remove the hood. The other bolts all came out ok though. While I had the hood off, I removed the original hood support so I could fit the gas strut. Got the new hinges and the hood back on, pulled the bottom part off the old hood support and bolted it back on. Drilled some holes where the gas strut attached to the hood, went to rivet the bracket on and realised the riveter had a rivet tail jammed in the workings. Took me an hour to pull the damn thing apart before I could use it.

So, nothing you guys haven't been subjected to before but what I thought would take me 2 hours ended up taking me over 5 and it was 116*F today :cussing:


Only 116*. Hell, better you than me. When I was getting ready for the first Bird run I decided to take the top off to clean easier. Off came the top and the right side mounting flange and stud fell off. What was to be a 1 hour clean up truned into a 3 hour fix before I could clean. The temp was 68*.:cool:
 

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