All car projects on hold for summer 2014

What is the roof trusts made of in FL? With the walls and slab cement I was wondering what holds the roof up?

2x4 with steel plates on each side holding the W truss together, unless you have a modern high/vaulted ceiling then all bets are off, I seen some disASSters in that construction, much less change a fan or light bulb...fixture inside.....my little house is now 1600' I put a 300' room addition out back, and moved a bearing wall forward when redoing the kitchen, had to redistribute the load in the trusses, so faced the 2x6 framing with steel plate 1/8" thick and 6" wide, one to the peak of the roof another horizontal along the old bearing wall post, and bolted in place....

:bounce:
 
;) Good, still put up a rain gutter, if nothing else it makes using the door much more pleasant in a rainstorm.....

There will be a 9x27' roof between the door and the pool. I got these 4" thick styrofoam roof panels with aluminum bonded to it - currently that stuff is inside waiting for me to replace some rotten wood at the overhang where these panels attach to a C-channel.... There's a flimsy rotten 1x8 right now, I'm going to replace that with a pressure treated 2x8 and bolt that to 12 roof trusses with 24 angle brackets ... It will be rocksolid
 
What is the roof trusts made of in FL? With the walls and slab cement I was wondering what holds the roof up?

In modern constructed houses you have so called "hurricane straps" securing the roof trusses to the walls. These straps are galvanized heavy gauge steel straps, varying in length, the blocks on the four corners and the blocks on each side of a door or window are supposed to be filled with concrete. The straps are in these blocks as well , on the hollow blocks the straps go down to the concrete slab.... So the newer roofs are NOT going to lift off as easy as the older ones.

On my "new" 40+ year old house I am filling the blocks per the newest standard and also add the hurricane straps to secure the roof structure. I plan to cut holes in the blocks from the exterior, then fill with concrete bucket by bucket..... One of my buddies just did it, not fun.....

In two years or so I'll install lap siding Hardie panels so the patched holes on the walls are only a temporary eyesore....
 
Floor in the master bathroom: natural timber whitewash wood look porcelain tile ...... By the time I'm done I probably spent $7500 on the flooring alone, damn this is a money pit ..... Worse than my Vette

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In modern constructed houses you have so called "hurricane straps" securing the roof trusses to the walls. .

An interesting note, I talked to an insurance adjuster a while back and he told me that after the tornado that hit a neighboring city a few years ago, they found that the newer houses with hurricane clips attaching the roof trusses to the walls suffered more damage because when the roof lifted it tried to take the walls with it and destroyed everything. But the older houses built with only 3) #8 nails toenailed holding the trusses fared better because the roof just pulled off and left the walls intact.

(I'm talking conventional wood light frame walls here, not masonry)

"Just sayin..."
 
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In modern constructed houses you have so called "hurricane straps" securing the roof trusses to the walls. .

An interesting note, I talked to an insurance adjuster a while back and he told me that after the tornado that hit a neighboring city a few years ago, they found that the newer houses with hurricane clips attaching the roof trusses to the walls suffered more damage because when the roof lifted it tried to take the walls with it and destroyed everything. But the older houses built with only 3) #8 nails toenailed holding the trusses fared better because the roof just pulled off and left the walls intact.

"Just sayin..."

Yeh, I hear that, not witnessed it myself though, just know that I have a hurry cain bolt into the slab every 2-3' or so around the perimeter of the room addition, and I just wrapped the studs with Tyvek waterproofing and screwed the hardiboard over top of it, stuffed in insulation and done, it's on the east face of the house, so the coolest room in the joint, easy....house faces direct west....largest single bang for the buck was replacing my 5'h x 6'w front LR window with plastic thermal, lo E this dropped my LR temps by nearly 20f when the western sun streamed in....but since then wife has added a deck, and a roof, and a ton of plants/flowers...but I did all the windows in the house, gone are the 43 y/o single pane aluminum junk...I paint the roof white, number ONE, I had the lightest gray shingles available on there, they reached 165f in the summer sun by 11AM in the MORNING....

took various probes to the attic, the attic temps were clocking an easy 145f by PM......decreasing down to about 115 just above the insulation, I have roof vents long the peaks of the roof in back of the house, and of course ~2' overhang and vents there too....WELL, I found that painting the roof white, reduced my attic temps by .......get THIS.....40f.......105f on the plywood.....cut about 80-100 bux/month off my summer AC bill.....saved my ass this summer alone.....

IMO the only roof worth having in FLORIDA is white metal.....:devil:
 
Over here, in the tropics the roof trusts are steel and either corrugated cement or ceramic tiles. Very little wood as the dampness and bugs will take a toll.:sos:
 
Over here, in the tropics the roof trusts are steel and either corrugated cement or ceramic tiles. Very little wood as the dampness and bugs will take a toll.:sos:

YEH no shit, should see all the T-1 11 wood sided houses around here, all of them rotted out around the base so even though it's against hurry cain codes, they cut from 1-2' up all around the house, and replace with a ledger strip shaped like a Z almost, but 90* bends, and stick hardi/concrete board along the bottoms, years ago I hit a shower install on an outside wall, it was totally rotten out and MOLD!!!! the lady was Cuban and from Miami, and she was all torn up with the BS mold, I opened up the 3' shower wall along with all the rest of them, including the floor, and spray HELL outta it with full Chlorox and let it dry, hit it again next day, bath door closed , window cracked......day 3 she was all happy as hell, swinging from the chandeliers because her health improved THAT much....one lousy shower....now strange to say MY house master shower was on the outside block wall, since covered by room addition, but that shower is OEM to the house....tile and pan laid up by hand....I have had the walls open on the backside, and it's fine, no rot/mold go figger.....

:beer::p
 
Update after a few months: got the kitchen almost done .... Finally spent a day working in the garage today, wrenches and grease is much superior to gypsum and tile adhesive !!!!!

From this:

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To this:

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Update on my ongoing garage projects.... My '65 beetle (left) and my buddy's '64 on the right .... Was great to spend some quality time in the garage

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I have that stacked stone on my fireplace.love it. I was going to do my kitchen backslash with it but thought keeping it clean would be a chore.:waxer:
 
I have that stacked stone on my fireplace.love it. I was going to do my kitchen backslash with it but thought keeping it clean would be a chore.:waxer:

Kitchen tile has to be baked hard TILE, either flat or slick finish, anything else will not do well.......old kitchen installer here....:drink:
 
Update after a few months: got the kitchen almost done ....

Nice. I like the stacked stone on the island. What product did you use?

I want to use something similar in my kitchen but I need gray tones.

DC

This is "desert quarz" ledgestone from Lowes.... It is mostly grey, I can try to get a better pic, the warm light turns it golden. There's a lot of variety in the colors but mostly grey ??
 
I have that stacked stone on my fireplace.love it. I was going to do my kitchen backslash with it but thought keeping it clean would be a chore.:waxer:

Kitchen tile has to be baked hard TILE, either flat or slick finish, anything else will not do well.......old kitchen installer here....:drink:

I'm Going to use this for my backsplash too- the key is to use a good sealer .... That stuff is $40 a quart but it is the way to go ..... $40 well spent .... It will repell all the grease and crap from penetrating the porous natural stone ....
 
Finally made it back to turning wrenches ... Much more enjoyable than drywall, paint or tiles/concrete work...

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Played a little with my Beetle.... cut the rusted floorboards out, more rust than steel ... Lol
 
Again some quality time in the garage ... Can't believe I'm working on this house for one and a half years now... Spending time in the garage on some fun projects keeps me from going totally insane ..... Lol ... I'm Already considering buying another C3 to make sure I use all my shop space efficiently .....

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