While I have the frame off...

Should I cut the crossmember and make it removable and if I do end up cutting it would anyone have a template for the plates?

Thanks Ray

Wasn't it bullshark that had the templates? That was the only nice solution I saw, I cringe when I see cut crossmember with big through bolts and pieces of angle iron. When using through bolts the crossmember should be reinforced by welding a tube inside it (or drill a large hole and weld a tube flush with the outside)

Why not buy the correct brackets and x-member for the auto's and weld them in?

Solo said:

Why not buy the correct brackets and x-member for the auto's and weld them in?

Click to expand...

Are they available outside of a junk yard? Also, why go stock if you can build better :beer:

With that being said, I am interested in these so called brackets. *Cough* I planned on...um...using angle iron and thru bolts...

Angle iron and thru bolts been on my car for some years now....~4-5?....

works fine....I even cut the bottom of the double loops outta there, angled back on the bottom of the channels pretty good, and then welded in a bridge/lattice work for strength....

:shocking:

TT, where is that picture of your crossmember??

Why not get one of those bowtie overdrives tubular crossmembers. It is probably lighter and stronger than the stock pieces.
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_inc/viewitem.php?ITEMID=112

I have one of the Bowtie crossmembers and it fit great. It's probably the only thing they do right!

Well it looks like I'm going to cut and weld paltes on like bullshark did on one of his projects.
I pmed him and he told me it was ok to use his pics here.

I love that idea, but I wonder what something like that would run I couldn't make that with the tools I have and I cant weld... Maybe I'll just hot glue them on :idea:

NOOOOOOOO not hot glue ....JB weld:lol::lol:

I guess I'm lucky in this area I have 5 brothers and 6 sisters and we all have different jobs auto mech, engineer/draftsmen, a machine shop owner operator,home builder, oh yeah elevator repair, etc. Also our dad from a young age started showing that most jobs could be done with out farming them out. (Thanks Dad)

JB weld! But that's too expensive....

My dad was a do it yourselfer, but not when it came to cars. That's my niche. However, I lack fabrication skills. I can fix things and think of solutions, but can't always build it from scratch. Maybe I can make up those brackets (or something very close) and then I'll have my local shop weld them in. I always seem to have a supply of card board for brackets

greg75vette said:

I love that idea, but I wonder what something like that would run I couldn't make that with the tools I have and I cant weld... Maybe I'll just hot glue them on :idea:

Click to expand...

Neither can I Greg. :cussing:
I cut the center section out using a sawzall then took it up to a friend of mines machine shop. They used the center section to define the inside cutout on the plate. Real easy when you have a water jet cutting tool. :amazed: They then cut out the outer profile per the drawing.
They real benefit of having the center of the plate cut out is that it makes the alignment a no brainer. I had them weld on the two inner plates. I then took the center section and bolted it up, tack welding the outer plates. Removed the center section and finished the outer plate weld around the inside cutout profile and as much of the outside as I could get to with the body still on the car. Welding was fairly easy but I had a lift and avoided the hot metal falling. That water jet cutting tool made the job a relatively easy. Worth every penny the shop would charge. Should be around $100 a set of four according to my friend. I have seen where a guy now out of odessa Texas Vettesbydesign (kevin gilliam) sells the plates, but without the center section cutout. I would think trying to align and fit welding just the flat plate would be a real challenge at least for me.

Bullshark

I agree with you Bullshark. If you did not remove the center section of the plates then you would have to remove material from the removable part of the xmember. I can see that being more tricky. Your approach seems rather sound as well. However, I may try to make my brackets with what I have and then have my shop weld them in. Should be cheaper and just as effective. I'm just not sure how I'll cut that inside curve. But even if I approximate the curve with short straight sections, I should still be ok as long as the gap doesn't become too large for a weld bead. But that may be just as difficult. I'll think of something.

Any updates on the removable crossmember question. I've got a TKO-600 tranny on order from Kreisler. I'm going to put in in the 68. Right now with the stock Muncie, its 3000 rpm at 70 mph...arghhh. Really sucks gas and also I hate to think of the engine wear and tear.

A previous posting has a sketch of some plates. I don't know where, as of yet, to have them fabricated here in LA. I also have an auto tranny crossmember. Part of the frame attachment brackets are included with the auto tranny crossmember...but not all of the brackets...someone cut off the attachment brackets with a cutoff wheel and a portion of the brackets were left behind on the frame! I worry about trying to use the auto crossmember since if I have it welded back on (i.e. weld what's left of the frame attachment brackets) and it's off a little in elevation, I could have driveshaft problems. I think I like the plates better.

Maybe 10 years ago, Guldstrand Motorsports in Glendale, Ca wanted $1500 to build a removable crossmember for the 68. I'll probably give him a call, but I bet the price is more now. Even 10 years ago, or so, $1500 seemed really pricey.
Thanks

elevatordude said:

Well it looks like I'm going to cut and weld paltes on like bullshark did on one of his projects.
I pmed him and he told me it was ok to use his pics here.

Click to expand...

Ok ok I'll use that one.. While I'm at it....

Heres a few While I'm at it...


Plates


Cutting


Spot welding of plates in position.


Everything in place




Frame gussets





Box the engine support




Rear safety loop connections.



Safety loop



Cardan shaft and loop. The distance around the shaft to the loop is 8mm (5/16"). It should be enough to allow movement of the driveline during driving. If not, I will make a new loop.



Ready!


Anyway theres more on this on this thread from 427suede,
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7724

68/70Vette said:

Any updates on the removable crossmember question. I've got a TKO-600 tranny on order from Kreisler. I'm going to put in in the 68. Right now with the stock Muncie, its 3000 rpm at 70 mph...arghhh. Really sucks gas and also I hate to think of the engine wear and tear.

A previous posting has a sketch of some plates. I don't know where, as of yet, to have them fabricated here in LA. I also have an auto tranny crossmember. Part of the frame attachment brackets are included with the auto tranny crossmember...but not all of the brackets...someone cut off the attachment brackets with a cutoff wheel and a portion of the brackets were left behind on the frame! I worry about trying to use the auto crossmember since if I have it welded back on (i.e. weld what's left of the frame attachment brackets) and it's off a little in elevation, I could have driveshaft problems. I think I like the plates better.

Maybe 10 years ago, Guldstrand Motorsports in Glendale, Ca wanted $1500 to build a removable crossmember for the 68. I'll probably give him a call, but I bet the price is more now. Even 10 years ago, or so, $1500 seemed really pricey.
Thanks

Click to expand...

Marck made a trick crossmember once. PM him.

1Michel said:

Heres a few While I'm at it...


Plates


Cutting


Spot welding of plates in position.


Everything in place




Frame gussets





Box the engine support




Rear safety loop connections.



Safety loop



Cardan shaft and loop. The distance around the shaft to the loop is 8mm (5/16"). It should be enough to allow movement of the driveline during driving. If not, I will make a new loop.



Ready!


Anyway theres more on this on this thread from 427suede,
http://www.vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7724

Click to expand...

First cabin work going on here. Kudos.

I like that jig, would make a good foundation to adapt C4 suspension. Do you have more pictures of it?