SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
clean garage, impressive.
1958 MGA Coupe
- Thread starter bobs77vet
- Start date
bobs77vet
Well-known member
well you have to start some where:
of course i have 6 of them, so lets take the best 4
clean them up and paint them with the zinc oxide treatment
did somebody need these dimensions?
of course i have 6 of them, so lets take the best 4
clean them up and paint them with the zinc oxide treatment
did somebody need these dimensions?
bobs77vet
Well-known member
small bites as usual, last night i painted the brackets
dont ask me why but there are three different hole sizes for the holes for the caged nuts...one size for the bottom and two sizes for the top...of course there is
so carefully pull the tabs close together or make the small holes on the top bracket bigger
i did say carefully right?
no problem I have another one that is an original
looks like cross slotted on the outside with a washer and hex head on the inside
dont ask me why but there are three different hole sizes for the holes for the caged nuts...one size for the bottom and two sizes for the top...of course there is
so carefully pull the tabs close together or make the small holes on the top bracket bigger
i did say carefully right?
no problem I have another one that is an original
looks like cross slotted on the outside with a washer and hex head on the inside
bobs77vet
Well-known member
well i gave my welding table to my son along with the wood working equipment......so what is a poor boy to do???? 5 hours worth of work by Grandpa....those 9' pieces were heavy....
remember this, lintels from old brick houses that are being torn down.....9' x 3x5 x 5/16 USS steel... and 6'x2 1/2 x4x1/4
it will have full inner perimeter clamping capabilities and a clampng slot down the middle, top is 11"x 1/4" table size is 35 x 54. depending on how is use the 3x5 angle iron, i may do one side with a 3" spine and and the other with a 5" spine. just to give maximum vesatility. the 5" spine would be good for straightening out metal parts
wire brushed and wiped down
and sprayed with self etching primer, most people don,t paint welding tables but this is really a metal shop assembly/welding table. i need it to be clean so if i brush up against it i dont get all dirty.
remember this, lintels from old brick houses that are being torn down.....9' x 3x5 x 5/16 USS steel... and 6'x2 1/2 x4x1/4
it will have full inner perimeter clamping capabilities and a clampng slot down the middle, top is 11"x 1/4" table size is 35 x 54. depending on how is use the 3x5 angle iron, i may do one side with a 3" spine and and the other with a 5" spine. just to give maximum vesatility. the 5" spine would be good for straightening out metal parts
wire brushed and wiped down
and sprayed with self etching primer, most people don,t paint welding tables but this is really a metal shop assembly/welding table. i need it to be clean so if i brush up against it i dont get all dirty.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
another day of having fun!!
set up the legs
trued up
welded up 240v hobart handler 190 set way up high
time to lower it it was just me working today....i estimated about 270 lbs
set up the legs
trued up
welded up 240v hobart handler 190 set way up high
time to lower it it was just me working today....i estimated about 270 lbs
bobs77vet
Well-known member
thanks
heres the blocking for the casters so its a rigid table....
for now its band clamped on and its rock solid, i think i will make some brackets at some time and bolt them in place.
some bracing for the top supports while i weld it in place
and my recycled top 11" x 1/4 from a parking lot repair that the contractors through in a dumpster at my sons work and he retrieved it for me
next to incorporate a trailer hitch in to the under side shelf
heres the blocking for the casters so its a rigid table....
for now its band clamped on and its rock solid, i think i will make some brackets at some time and bolt them in place.
some bracing for the top supports while i weld it in place
and my recycled top 11" x 1/4 from a parking lot repair that the contractors through in a dumpster at my sons work and he retrieved it for me
next to incorporate a trailer hitch in to the under side shelf
bobs77vet
Well-known member
well since I have the MG TD with a relatively new exhaust it really has put the MGAs 40 yr old muffler to shame. i knew i needed a new muffler but with a side by side comparision i had to do something. so i have been watching for a replacement muffler and sure enough one of you guys in NC swapped your new exhaust system for a stainless steel system and your shop sold the replaced new muffler to me with shipping it was $39. the label hadn't even fallen all the way off yet
i didnt even jack up the car
i knew when i installed the exhaust system the old muffler would come off at some point so i never torqued up the clamps to crushing torque levels
and the sound test was fantastic, it took 45mins.from start to finish
i didnt even jack up the car
i knew when i installed the exhaust system the old muffler would come off at some point so i never torqued up the clamps to crushing torque levels
and the sound test was fantastic, it took 45mins.from start to finish
bobs77vet
Well-known member
a left over Hitch from who knows where, it was under my deck
i lucked out i now have some receiver tubing
the top will be my storage shelf
some i beam from fencing a neigbor was tossing
now i need to get some 1 1/2 inch black pipe to bridge the channels and then i can tack the top down and sand the new pieces and prime them and then slip it in place
with those pieces i am up to about 380 lbs
i lucked out i now have some receiver tubing
the top will be my storage shelf
some i beam from fencing a neigbor was tossing
now i need to get some 1 1/2 inch black pipe to bridge the channels and then i can tack the top down and sand the new pieces and prime them and then slip it in place
with those pieces i am up to about 380 lbs
bobs77vet
Well-known member
so lets wrap these windows up
where we start with two now to make one
missing some screws
take off the bottom chrome trim the other frame is the nicest
broken screw in the bracket and the other screw was missing but i had one
the tap set tells you what size hole to drill to tap new threads, for a #6 screw its number 35 or really close to 7/64 if its not it exactly
go slow and use cutting oil , you go backand forth cutting about 1/16 of a turn at a time especially for these small taps
and after hand polishing
so the only thing these window frame needs is a new inner liner for the frame. I have a new ventilator gasket but I am not sure if I am going t put that in or not
about 2hrs of work
where we start with two now to make one
missing some screws
take off the bottom chrome trim the other frame is the nicest
broken screw in the bracket and the other screw was missing but i had one
the tap set tells you what size hole to drill to tap new threads, for a #6 screw its number 35 or really close to 7/64 if its not it exactly
go slow and use cutting oil , you go backand forth cutting about 1/16 of a turn at a time especially for these small taps
and after hand polishing
so the only thing these window frame needs is a new inner liner for the frame. I have a new ventilator gasket but I am not sure if I am going t put that in or not
about 2hrs of work
bobs77vet
Well-known member
moving on to the drivers side. so in looking at my parts, it seems the easiest path is to use the vertical upright for my old windows on the new windows
the broken tab is harder to deal with then swapping the vertical posts
i do have to drill out the one screw and probably retap
i see the camera is picking up everything other then what i want, but i am letting the two screws soak in PB blaster before i try and torque on them
first round of hand polishing
the broken tab is harder to deal with then swapping the vertical posts
i do have to drill out the one screw and probably retap
i see the camera is picking up everything other then what i want, but i am letting the two screws soak in PB blaster before i try and torque on them
first round of hand polishing
bobs77vet
Well-known member
so to pick up where we left off the bracket under the ventilator window is broken on the window frame i am going to use and i need to take the bracket off so the new donor pillar will fit basically drill the rivets out and pop it out with adrift
these are the parts
kind of the way it looks on the car
one last broken screw to coax out
these are the parts
kind of the way it looks on the car
one last broken screw to coax out
bobs77vet
Well-known member
the boss retired early
and i was thinking about how to get the ventilator pivot bolt nut off so i decided to cut it off with a dremel
bracket screw would not come out so drill and tap it
next side
ready to order parts to put it all back together again
and i was thinking about how to get the ventilator pivot bolt nut off so i decided to cut it off with a dremel
bracket screw would not come out so drill and tap it
next side
ready to order parts to put it all back together again
bobs77vet
Well-known member
so lets take somemore stuff apart
remove old gasket
some times it easier to line things up using screws that are longer these re 1/2 long
all shined up and mock fit before the gasket goes in
this was a PITA two people, one pushing on the bottom and the other pushing up top with a Popsicle stick
this gets pushed in last
and a trial fit i still have to put that rivet i place right now its just a nut a bolt holding it
remove old gasket
some times it easier to line things up using screws that are longer these re 1/2 long
all shined up and mock fit before the gasket goes in
this was a PITA two people, one pushing on the bottom and the other pushing up top with a Popsicle stick
this gets pushed in last
and a trial fit i still have to put that rivet i place right now its just a nut a bolt holding it
Last edited:
bobs77vet
Well-known member
4 screws and 1 gasket how long can that take???
and what you are seeing is the only screw i didnt have to drill out and retap
athough i am getting good at free hand drilling
so three holes drilled and tapped, and parts polished
and we ran out of umpph to keep moving it forward will regroup later tonight
and what you are seeing is the only screw i didnt have to drill out and retap
athough i am getting good at free hand drilling
so three holes drilled and tapped, and parts polished
and we ran out of umpph to keep moving it forward will regroup later tonight
bobs77vet
Well-known member
where we left off
just effort from this point forward just shove and push...and i used a har dryer to see if i could make it softer I am not sure anything other then brute force actually worked
put the bottom piece on easily
and done
Jim Cheatham pointed out to me the gaskets have to be trimmed on the side the glass folds in on
the very top needed to be seated just a 1/16 of an inch more so lets see if wedging some thing in there will let it form into the position over time
its all down hill from here, i will put in a parts order tomorrow to finish up
just effort from this point forward just shove and push...and i used a har dryer to see if i could make it softer I am not sure anything other then brute force actually worked
put the bottom piece on easily
and done
Jim Cheatham pointed out to me the gaskets have to be trimmed on the side the glass folds in on
the very top needed to be seated just a 1/16 of an inch more so lets see if wedging some thing in there will let it form into the position over time
its all down hill from here, i will put in a parts order tomorrow to finish up
bobs77vet
Well-known member
lets clean up the parts and place all the hardware in place
mark the parts
had one thread that needed to be retapped
that finishing strip needs to come off
paint stripped off
and polished it looks better then it did
and a teaser photo or two
mark the parts
had one thread that needed to be retapped
that finishing strip needs to come off
paint stripped off
and polished it looks better then it did
and a teaser photo or two
bobs77vet
Well-known member
show time..
1/8" split pin for the handles
clean it up with a 5/32 drill bit so its nice and tight
trial fit
tapped down with the rivet set tool
a hard surface to set it
hit until the rivet tools bottoms out, then move to flat end drift
fully set
back together
I use green grease its synthethic and waterproof really good stuff, on the spring and washers of the window ventialtor mechanism, i came to discover how good this stuff is when i went to clean a bearing grease tool and tried cleaning it with gasoline and i couldnt remove the grease even after soaking it in gasoline, then i knew i had really good stuff and have been using it ever since
the triangular trim piece also has a ridge in it to catch the gasket
1/8" split pin for the handles
clean it up with a 5/32 drill bit so its nice and tight
trial fit
tapped down with the rivet set tool
a hard surface to set it
hit until the rivet tools bottoms out, then move to flat end drift
fully set
back together
I use green grease its synthethic and waterproof really good stuff, on the spring and washers of the window ventialtor mechanism, i came to discover how good this stuff is when i went to clean a bearing grease tool and tried cleaning it with gasoline and i couldnt remove the grease even after soaking it in gasoline, then i knew i had really good stuff and have been using it ever since
the triangular trim piece also has a ridge in it to catch the gasket
bobs77vet
Well-known member
lets put the felt channels in place
so why would the window channels that should be felt have a metal spiral bound liner in them?
basically fold the felt channel in half and push it in.
fully seat it with the butt of a plastic spreader
tomorrow i think i will use some thread locker and tighten up all the screws and move to put these in the doors over the next week
so why would the window channels that should be felt have a metal spiral bound liner in them?
basically fold the felt channel in half and push it in.
fully seat it with the butt of a plastic spreader
tomorrow i think i will use some thread locker and tighten up all the screws and move to put these in the doors over the next week
Sam Cogley
Well-known member
Is there a filler block for that corner, or do you just have a strange triangular opening next to your vent window?
