1969 427 restoration from Sweden

427Swede said:
Had to fix most of the chrome this winter. I rechromed the rear bumpers, the front lower parts of the bumper and the trim around the air intakes where the position lamps are. A few small pieces for the T-tops were also rechromed.

The process included, de chroming, sandblasting, polishing, applying of copper, polishing again, final applying of chrome.
The total cost for this ended up at 2000$.
Also bought new door handles and a new rear veiw mirror, GM licensed parts. Good quality as far as I can see.
New rear letters, antenna and a new license bezel rounded up the chrome investments for this year.

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You joking of course....TWO GRAND for chrome bumpers??

I need a right rear for my car due to some small crack appearing on top in the bend area.....when it gets bad enough, I just getting it welded, and polished and then they all get gloss powder coated black.....

I THINK they make new bumpers for far less than 2000 bux.....


:surrender::eek:
 
427Swede said:
Nope.... 2000 $ it is.
That is a normal price for rechroming the parts I listed, here in Sweden.

It is expensive to be a Swede :eek:
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:smash::surrender: NO SHIT!!!! I am shocked time and time again what you guys over the pond pay for stuff on any American car.....course then again, no such thing as a cheap part for any European car over here, that pond is a bitch.....:fishing::smash:
 
MYBAD79 said:
You still need that little air dam (spoiler) for when the fans are not running..... Like at 70km/h that air dam funnels enough air to the radiator that the fans don't have to be on to cool ..... At that speed the air dam probably (probably) moves more air thru the radiator than the fans......just my guess....i don't have any numbers to back this up.... But...... The air dam not only directs the air "upwards" , it also creates a low pressure area behind the dam and so helps "sucking" air thru the radiator..... At speeds higher than maybe 50 km/h ???

I bought mine for maybe $39 or so...... Well worth it.....

I think your belly pan might prevent that "low pressure" area from being created, I'd like to see when your fans come on - maybe install a temporary light that shows when the fans are on ?? Compare the temps with and without that belly pan that you built..... That would really be some interessting data.....
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An update on the "belly pan" that I manufactured to get rid of all the dust that was collected in the engine bay during normal driving.

So, tonight it was time for my first cruise night for this season. It took place in a city called Southport, 40km to the south of where I live. The temps were really nice around 21-23ºC. A fairly high temp for this early in the summer.
I had no problems with the engine temps at all during the slow cruising through the city in streets totally jammed with American 50-70:s cars! The temps were steady at 180-190ºF without any tendencies to go higher. The streets were fairly dusty after the winter and after the drive home, 40km again, I opened the hood to have a look. It was dust free!!! Before everything would be covered in dust from the roads that would mess the paint and chrome up. Not so any moore.

So, no overheating problems and no dust despite extremely slow driving and high outside temps.
I can recommend you to test this solution if you get annoyed with dirty engine bays!

Regards, Daniel
 
Thank's!
I have not been active here for a long period but you know, a lot of things happens in life and it is difficult to be active everywhere.

I drive the Corvette every summer and it is running really good! No special problems except a small leakage from the rear main seal. I have 2 first places att car shows with the Corvette which has been great fun!
The Camaro Z28 I started restoring is not finished. I have bought all new sheet metal for it but, my boat needed some care. I am building a complete new driveline for it. A chevy 383 with AFR heads and so on. It will be finished coming summer.
 

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Didn't read all; the but pics show your massive task.
It would be good to change the fuel feed from pump to a hard metal line.
Just sayin - poof in afire - I owned several burned out Corvettes.
The fiberglass mat blow up like the insulation used in houses. It cannot be salvaged.
69 is my favorite of the 68-82 span.
 
Thank's for the tip Geoff!
I have a faint memory of trying to learn how they built it originally, was it a hard line? Probably. Maybe it is remanufactured by any of the parts suppliers such av Zip, CC and Paragon?
 
Ooooh! Don't mention those places, particularly the Z-one, around Geoff! :evil: But know that he would be the best person to have what you need or at least know where to find a good one! The OEM line is steel.
 
A 1x4 stock method uses a Q-Jet & requires 2 lines on right side of the frame from the fuel tank: a fuel feed line & a vapor return line. All 69 1x4 use that setup which involves an external fuel filter with a separate mount bracket & 3 metal lines. Two are fuel lines: one feed from fuel pump to the filter & the other from the filter to the carb. The third smaller diameter line connects to the top of the vapor port on top of the filter.

The filter used on the above 1x4’s is different that most others. Although it has a threaded inlet & outlet – it also has the small nipple like vapor port using a small short hose & 2 spring style clamps – it doesn’t have the pressure the other lines have – plus it is mounted with a bracket so it’s nicely secured. But getting this type of filter in Sweden may be difficult. On the other hand, how many times do you think you’ll be changing it. Four would probably last a lifetime unless you are commuting to Stockholm.

A tripower 69 does not have the vapor return line so the fuel line is one piece steel all the way from the fuel pump to the 3 Holley carbs. And each carb has it’s own Brass colored stone filter (i.e. sintered metal) behind the inlet.

L88 fuel line is metal all the way; however it requires a double pumper type Holley carb. No vapor return line on L88 also.

So the value or use of the extra vapor line is not known to me. I’m sure you could fab a metal fuel line with all the complex detailed work that you have already accomplished. If you were closer, I’d hire you to work on my cars. My regular wrench is busy. Me: too stiff to bend, kneel, wrench – you may know this old proverb: I’m too light for heavy work; and to heavy for light work”.

PS Feel like I’m in Sweden. 14” (x 2.54cm) snow two days ago & 3” more today. This time of year I love my 4WD Dodge pk up.
 
This was some new information for me! I have the steel fuel line and the steel return line on the frame in my car. The filter I have is some kind of aftermarket original look-alike steel filter with a return connection which I am using. But, your information reveals a much more intricate system.
Not a chance to get hold of those parts in Sweden...
The best solution is probably to make my own steel line.

I'm honored that you would let me work on your cars!
Too bad the USA is soo far away from here...
 
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