95 Cobalt/454 Mercruiser

Some one could have lost/pulled the plug on it while it was docked or a leak through the transom. They will sink up to the top of the hull, no further. That would fill the engine with water. Over the last 20 years, I can't tell you how many boats I've see tied up to the dock, floating in the water with about 6 inches sticking out.
 
Those are the filled ones I've fooled with.
Usually the batteries are still connected for the bilge pumps and the tell tale signs are instant corrosion on all the electrics, really easy to see on the gauges.
Then it's a whole new set of problems.
 
I do believe it's something stupid, I just can't figure it. The owner swears nothing stupid occured, and the boat shows zero signs of water on board.
The oil floated up 4" above the risers, and out the spark arrestor intake..
He did try to crank it 1 year ago, and maybe a filled piston pumped it up and out the carb via an open intake valve.. Only thing I can think of.
Flapper valves are carbon black, no rust.
Stabbord side exhaust manifold had a high water line 2" below the riser flange.
Port exhaust had a puddle at the bottom.
I can't even think with prop exhaust how you could pump it backwards.
Today, after draining all night, I'll flush the oil lines, disconnect the raw water pump belt, pull the carb, and do a compresion test.
It's either a powerplant, or an artificial reef now.:smash:
 
I wonder if I should flush it with Diesel, ATF, or cheap oil?:confused2:
 
I do diesel first, then cheap oil, crank or run a bit briefly, a couple times in a row, then some synthetic and change filters only a couple times. Didn't even bother with comp tests other than my finger.
Had them run for years afterward.
 
Pickle it ASAP. Fill everything up with diesel to the top, it will soak up any water. Turn it over by hand a few revolutions to get the diesel in the oil passages. Standard procedure on swamped motors. But you ususlly have to do it quickly after draining the water to avoid rust.
 
Pickle it ASAP. Fill everything up with diesel to the top, it will soak up any water. Turn it over by hand a few revolutions to get the diesel in the oil passages. Standard procedure on swamped motors. But you ususlly have to do it quickly after draining the water to avoid rust.

Okay. Filled the engine CC with 10 gallons of diesel for 1 hr, used compressed air in the dipstick to agitate. Drained the diesel with the predicted milk, and filled with 6 qts cheap oil. Squirted ATF in all cylinders.

Engine cranks 1* with each hit of starter. Breaker bar and cheater on Dampner bolt does zilch. NOT looking good for the team.

Will soak the cylinders in ATF all night, and try again tomarrow.

If I can keep walking it around 1* to get 360*, I'll decide what's next. Meanwhile,..............

I "could" pull the dizzy, POS Optispark, And use a priming tool to get fresh oil in the journals,lifters,valves, etc.......................
 
Drained the sump on the boat. 4 gallons of water, and 2 gallons of oil.
The water level went so high, it pushed oil up thru the intake manifold, and out the carb, coating the top of the intake slightly. All while sitting on a trailer over a 2 year period. WTF? I am perplexed.
Coolant still green, and pressure tested fine. It is raw water in the oil.:huh:

Pickle it ASAP. Fill everything up with diesel to the top, it will soak up any water. Turn it over by hand a few revolutions to get the diesel in the oil passages. Standard procedure on swamped motors. But you ususlly have to do it quickly after draining the water to avoid rust.

Okay. Filled the engine CC with 10 gallons of diesel for 1 hr, used compressed air in the dipstick to agitate. Drained the diesel with the predicted milk, and filled with 6 qts cheap oil. Squirted ATF in all cylinders.

Engine cranks 1* with each hit of starter. Breaker bar and cheater on Dampner bolt does zilch. NOT looking good for the team.

Will soak the cylinders in ATF all night, and try again tomarrow.

If I can keep walking it around 1* to get 360*, I'll decide what's next. Meanwhile,..............

I "could" pull the dizzy, POS Optispark, And use a priming tool to get fresh oil in the journals,lifters,valves, etc.......................


Wow, I thought it already turned over some before. Cylinders must be rusted bad. This one probably ain't coming back from the dead.
 
Drained the sump on the boat. 4 gallons of water, and 2 gallons of oil.
The water level went so high, it pushed oil up thru the intake manifold, and out the carb, coating the top of the intake slightly. All while sitting on a trailer over a 2 year period. WTF? I am perplexed.
Coolant still green, and pressure tested fine. It is raw water in the oil.:huh:

Pickle it ASAP. Fill everything up with diesel to the top, it will soak up any water. Turn it over by hand a few revolutions to get the diesel in the oil passages. Standard procedure on swamped motors. But you ususlly have to do it quickly after draining the water to avoid rust.

Okay. Filled the engine CC with 10 gallons of diesel for 1 hr, used compressed air in the dipstick to agitate. Drained the diesel with the predicted milk, and filled with 6 qts cheap oil. Squirted ATF in all cylinders.

Engine cranks 1* with each hit of starter. Breaker bar and cheater on Dampner bolt does zilch. NOT looking good for the team.

Will soak the cylinders in ATF all night, and try again tomarrow.

If I can keep walking it around 1* to get 360*, I'll decide what's next. Meanwhile,..............

I "could" pull the dizzy, POS Optispark, And use a priming tool to get fresh oil in the journals,lifters,valves, etc.......................


Wow, I thought it already turned over some before. Cylinders must be rusted bad. This one probably ain't coming back from the dead.

:confused::banghead::ill::banned:
 
Okay. Pulled the manifolds, aux's, and heads. Pried up 4 stuck lifters.
Still stuck.:banghead: Soaked the cylinders in PB blaster for the night.:drink:
I know it has to come out. Never done an I/O drive.:confused:
What am I up against? Special tools/equipment?
What should I know before I get over my head?
Can I use a stock Chevy and switch cams?:huh:
 
BTW, raw water pump is siezed. Fuel pump had water. Fuel filter had water. Carb needs rebuilding. Coolant pump,powsteer,alternator are fine. Manifolds will clean up. Heads look like a refresh will do. Lifters and pushrods are trash. Cam is free and looks good.
 
Boat

Break Out Another Thousand,pull the motor and rebuild at dick sherrer,maybe 4grand poor mikey
BTW, raw water pump is siezed. Fuel pump had water. Fuel filter had water. Carb needs rebuilding. Coolant pump,powsteer,alternator are fine. Manifolds will clean up. Heads look like a refresh will do. Lifters and pushrods are trash. Cam is free and looks good.
 

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btw

cam and nitrous while your at it haha
Break Out Another Thousand,pull the motor and rebuild at dick sherrer,maybe 4grand poor mikey
BTW, raw water pump is siezed. Fuel pump had water. Fuel filter had water. Carb needs rebuilding. Coolant pump,powsteer,alternator are fine. Manifolds will clean up. Heads look like a refresh will do. Lifters and pushrods are trash. Cam is free and looks good.
 
I can get it rebuilt for maybe $2,000. It's the I/O drive,crane/a frame crap that bugs me. It's a new horizon,(or all time low). I know I can do it, it's the knowledge base in that field that bugs me.

Got any free time Bob?:rofl::rofl:
 
get a poontang

doesnt take long for all that rust to set in . old motor rebuild time .love my 225 hp mercury outboard.70 mph since 1986. passangers kinda freak out though .but i gotta have my fishin fun....mike needs a poontang (pontoon) party barge for his style imo so we can go kick it at the river :beer::beer:
 
always have a few hours to help out. i"ll check overtons for parts.
 
What drive is on it, alpha, bravo, or TRS?
If that's full of water too, you have a big fiberglass bathtub. Check it from the plug at the bottom, not the reservoir.
 
What drive is on it, alpha, bravo, or TRS?
If that's full of water too, you have a big fiberglass bathtub. Check it from the plug at the bottom, not the reservoir.

Bravo. I'll check it today. Thanks
 
If not familiar, you may want to get a book. Lots of little stuff to set up.
You should remove the drive first. Engine has to be aligned properly when put back in anyway.
Worst case, after the drive is off and everything else loose and out of the way, trailer it to a place with a forklift, lift it out and into the back of your pickup. Same to put it back in. Forklift is faster and easier and I've got the overhead chainfall.
 

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