Adjusting t-arms and rear wheel alignment?

[1Michel]

Yes, the same shimming method. The JJ just replaces the normal rubber bushing.

84rvz500r has JJs on his trailing arms.

Ok cool I'll do the Johnny joints for sure, You convinced me
Hey I was looking at your bro's suspension and I'll also going that route.
I like what you did on the trail arms. The only thing I'll change is probably add a hydrolic parking brake.

A while ago I followed an old post from Digital, you, I think Mark and Norval were discussing the configuration of the 6 link susp.

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31119

I'll try to reproduce that 6 links. I dont need a race car but want to upgrade it a bit.

The body is mounted on the frame and as soon I can, I'll do a mock up on and play with it.
Of course I'll post pics and ask for your opinion.

 

[Dirtbuster1]

then align with a 2' carpenter's level against the rim with screws shimmed out so you don't touch the tires....look up the degrees converted to inches in the tables....measure off jack stands with monofillament fishing line stretched tight....note that on a C3 the rear is 3/8 inch wider than front on each side....
and twist away.....

:stirpot::ghost::2nd:

Why would you use screws against the level. I just used a piece of straight wood, to the height of the rim. Then I put the level on the wood. Like BB said just level it out, or use a protractor to dial in.

Also why is the rear 3/8" wider on each side. This is the 1st I have heard of this. Heard 1 person say it's 2 inches wider on each side.

If the frame is straight, why wouldn't you measure off of 2 parallel points on the frame with the fishing line or laser. Front wheels parallel with the string, and the rear wheels total out 1/8" towards the rear.

Need help understanding this correctly. I thought I was close, but now I'm not sure?