C3/4/5 frankenstein frame

[SuperBuickGuy]

wow - awesome

 

[vette427sbc]

Got my ABS pump in today so I can start wrapping up the brake lines... excuse the temporary ziptie mount! The pump is from a 2006 BMW M3. (Teves MK60) Its a pretty widely used pump in motorsports with a few options to upgrade for programmable and tuneable track oriented ABS. Capable of running standalone, so no need for the original cars computer. Wheel speed sensors, front and rear master cylinder port pressure sensors, and a yaw sensor are all the additional parts required

Let me know if pics are showing up? they are attachments from another forum

Your picture of the rear tire/frame rail looks like mine. I also have a 285 tire. Don't have the body on yet so not sure if I will have problems with clearance (tire to fender). My outside of tire to outside of tire width is 68 1/8". I measured the rear fender to fender max at 68 5/8". So, I'm only inside the fenders by 1/4".

I measured a stock 71 with 225's and got an overall tire to tire width of 69 1/4" so I think I'm good. I hope I'm good. Too late to change now!

Ill have to measure mine tomorrow to see where mine lay... Lots of mods without the body nearby for measurement! Fingers crossed!

wow - awesome

Thanks :2nd:

 

[bobs77vet]

pictures showed up nicely, that looks great.....even with a zip tie!

 

[vette427sbc]

Stoptech ST40 caliper bracket mocked up... had my neighbor (who happens to have a very cool C3 as well) 3D print the bracket prior to having it done on the CNC. Glad I did because a few measurements I had taken were off. This bracket is designed for a '88.5+ C4 with a C5 front rotor, a Stoptech ST40 caliper and an IPSCO mechanical spot caliper.

(apologies for the poor pictures... Im limited to the front facing camera on my phone so Im taking a "selfie" of these parts while trying to stay out of view :lol: )

 

[vette427sbc]

and now for some photos that are slightly less horrible quality :tomato:











So now on to the fuel lines... since my body is off the frame Im having a bit of a hard time knowing what is going to fit (or not!) around frame sections. Im running 2 -8 hardlines (aluminum, because theres a few less ounces :bounce: ) If anyone has any photos of the underside of their car, specifically how low the floors are compared to the frame rails and the gap between the body and front side of the frame crossmember where the frame rails kick up (I think the pre ~'75 cars were all the same floors?) I would appreciate it!

 

[bobs77vet]

that 3d printing is pretty amazing.

 

[BBShark]

So now on to the fuel lines... since my body is off the frame Im having a bit of a hard time knowing what is going to fit (or not!) around frame sections. Im running 2 -8 hardlines (aluminum, because theres a few less ounces :bounce: ) If anyone has any photos of the underside of their car, specifically how low the floors are compared to the frame rails and the gap between the body and front side of the frame crossmember where the frame rails kick up (I think the pre ~'75 cars were all the same floors?) I would appreciate it!

You have the same dilemma as me. I wish I would have paid more attention when the car was together. I'm pretty sure I will have to raise the transmission tunnel. As far as the lines, I think you are OK as long as they are in the same location as stock.

I'm trying to figure out how much room is between the back of the heads and the firewall because I'm running my fuel lines there.

What are you going to do with your frame jig?

 

[vette427sbc]

that 3d printing is pretty amazing.

Its great... I think I may end up getting my own printer; Its a very helpful tool!

(The centerbores are backwards in version 1) :withstupid:

You have the same dilemma as me. I wish I would have paid more attention when the car was together. I'm pretty sure I will have to raise the transmission tunnel. As far as the lines, I think you are OK as long as they are in the same location as stock.

I'm trying to figure out how much room is between the back of the heads and the firewall because I'm running my fuel lines there.

What are you going to do with your frame jig?

Im worried that the frame rails are off enough from stock to still fit the body, but wont support another ~.625 worth of fuel line. Plus, Im trying to make as much of the car serviceable without removing the body again. The fuel lines didnt fall into that category on a stock 69' :crylol: The jig is going to stay at the fab shop for now... Not sure what to do with it

Whats too big for your trans tunnel?

 

[BBShark]

You have the same dilemma as me. I wish I would have paid more attention when the car was together. I'm pretty sure I will have to raise the transmission tunnel. As far as the lines, I think you are OK as long as they are in the same location as stock.

I'm trying to figure out how much room is between the back of the heads and the firewall because I'm running my fuel lines there.

What are you going to do with your frame jig?

Im worried that the frame rails are off enough from stock to still fit the body, but wont support another ~.625 worth of fuel line. Plus, Im trying to make as much of the car serviceable without removing the body again. The fuel lines didnt fall into that category on a stock 69' :crylol: The jig is going to stay at the fab shop for now... Not sure what to do with it

Whats too big for your trans tunnel?

The transmission is a TKO500 but I set up my driveline angles to match. Problem is, I could only get the diff down about 1 1/2 degrees (stock is 0 degrees). The engine is down at the tail 3 1/2 degrees so that means the driveshaft is higher at the tailshaft. So, the transmission is higher than stock.

I probably should have set it up like stock. I'm just making things more difficult.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

In the offroad world, we run 2* offset with no problem at all. The perfect world is 1* postive/1* negative front/rear but 2* - as long as the shaft is balanced - is fine. Maybe this can be your excuse to get a carbon fiber shaft?

and just for the record.... my FJ40 has 18* on the output and zero on the differential (cv joint in front)....

 

[bobs77vet]

that 3d printing is pretty amazing.

Its great... I think I may end up getting my own printer; Its a very helpful tool!

(The centerbores are backwards in version 1) :withstupid:

thats amazing is it strong enough for a real mock up like those fake mock up engines?

 

[vette427sbc]

ABS bracket from DMP Fab showed up... Aluminum bracket with a .030 heat shield underneath to protect from potential sidepipe heat. The abs unit will sit on a strip of rubber to help isolate from vibration





Fuel lines and tank mock up... Im using Earls pro-lite 350 -8 braided from the rear frame rail to the kickup. The plan so far for the tank is to have it come down to the bottom of the body and follow the body line as far back as possible to help seal off the open rear underside for aero. at 38x10x15 its just shy of 25 gallons.




Mockup hardline

 

[vette427sbc]

thats amazing is it strong enough for a real mock up like those fake mock up engines?

The inside is honeycomb so its not solid plastic. I have to be careful tightening bolts through it because it can crush pretty easy. Im sure it could be made solid to be able to handle much more abuse

 

[rtj]

Looks good.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

that looks like the tank I built for my last C3, it may even look like the tank I'm going to build once I get the Camaro suspension under mine. Are you going to make it out of 16ga, 304, #4 finish stainless steel?

 

[vette427sbc]

Looks good.

Thanks!

that looks like the tank I built for my last C3, it may even look like the tank I'm going to build once I get the Camaro suspension under mine. Are you going to make it out of 16ga, 304, #4 finish stainless steel?

Im unsure yet, Really whatever the guy building it thinks is best. Weight is a huge concern so aluminum popped into my head but with all the ethanol fuels now Im not sure how reliable that is going to be (wont be running e85, but still)

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

for what it's worth, the minor weight savings of aluminum compared to the non-reactive attributes of stainless. My napkin math says the stainless tank would be 50 lbs vs. 35 lbs for aluminum... if you really want to be good forever, 316 2b (what they use for tables in science labs).... hmmm, now I'm thinking about building mine out of it too - my first step is finish my plasma table.

truly just my 2 cents, if it helps, cool, if not never mind me :suspicious:

 

[vette427sbc]

for what it's worth, the minor weight savings of aluminum compared to the non-reactive attributes of stainless. My napkin math says the stainless tank would be 50 lbs vs. 35 lbs for aluminum... if you really want to be good forever, 316 2b (what they use for tables in science labs).... hmmm, now I'm thinking about building mine out of it too - my first step is finish my plasma table.

truly just my 2 cents, if it helps, cool, if not never mind me :suspicious:

It does help... 15 lbs is alot!! this never crossed my mind until right now but my (hard) fuel lines are aluminum also. Going to have to do some research about all of this now...

 

[vette427sbc]

Starting on belly pan tabs before I go any further with the (hard) fuel lines since I will be routing the lines around the tabs. Im using Dzus fasteners/plates/springs from Earls... They were the only company that I could find with a diagram on how to choose what parts would work together (ie: spring height w/ compression, plate sizing, fastener reach) They also have "lightweight" plates with a few extra holes in them. Am I being anal enough about weight yet?? ::toothbrush:



The wood is just there for mockup purposes... The final pan material will be .25" carbon fiber honeycomb

 

[rtj]

You make them tight enough, you could lose the floor. But, 1/4” probably not strong enough.

Looks good.