"cheap" manual conversion, possible?

Uhm hate to tell you but the main reason why the gears on these break is because the case stretches and allows the shafts to shift and this makes for poor meshing gears and as such broken gears. If you are going to rebuild it, buy the beefier case from Gforce for 350 that eliminates the case stretch issue.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Uhm hate to tell you but the main reason why the gears on these break is because the case stretches and allows the shafts to shift and this makes for poor meshing gears and as such broken gears. If you are going to rebuild it, buy the beefier case from Gforce for 350 that eliminates the case stretch issue.
Click to expand...

Is 350 the price of the case?
That sound tempting, but I don't have much more than 1k$ for the conversion, and I know that at that price I won't get the kind of trans you can hammer, just a regular, well functioning manual gearbox.

Bought so far :
Tranny : 200$
ScatterShield: 130$
Pedal Set : 150$
Flywheel : 0$ (hope, hope)

To be bought (optimistic estimate) :
Cluster Gear 100$
2nd Gear : 50$
Rebuilt kit : 200$
Clutch+Pressure plate : 250$
Adapteur plate : ???
Shifter : ???
driveshaft : ???
flywheel resurfacing 50$?

See, budget it already busted :push:
Thanks however for sharing your taste for quality :hi:
 
That's a goddam sweet deal.:twitch:
So TT, if I get you right :

Hardened Case + stock gears > Stock case + hardened gear

Correct? Because I don't see how I could afford anything but the standard WC replacement gear.
 
I would upgrade the case before the gears. Have a G force T5 here, just the cry gears and all but in a stock case. Wonder how long it will last. It's coupled to a healthy 406.... we'll see
 
In my quest for part for my T5 I've found two replacement gear sources, at seemingly the same (good) price.
I've got
some "Tremec" gears made in Mexico and some "Great Taiwan Gear" gears made in, you guessed it, Taiwan.

Mexico is an industrial extension to the US, on the other hand Taiwan is a place of hi tech and precision engineering.

What would you guys choose quality wise?
 
I have no first hand experience with these trans cases but if the case deflects and stretches and if that is causing poorly meshed gears THEN.... the new gears won't mesh correctly if you use a stretched case... hate to be the guy with bad news but I'd hate you putting work and money into this and then find out the case is bad...

how about cleaning up the old gears and then check the meshing like you would on a differential ??? if the contact pattern is fine the case is probably fine, if not then its time for a new case....
 
MYBAD79 said:
I have no first hand experience with these trans cases but if the case deflects and stretches and if that is causing poorly meshed gears THEN.... the new gears won't mesh correctly if you use a stretched case... hate to be the guy with bad news but I'd hate you putting work and money into this and then find out the case is bad...

how about cleaning up the old gears and then check the meshing like you would on a differential ??? if the contact pattern is fine the case is probably fine, if not then its time for a new case....
Click to expand...
I will check this, just waiting for my rebuild instruction video to arrive to start pulling the trans apart.
Working in a foreign language, in a field you're new to, makes term less meaningfull. I understand the invidual terms, but putting them together don't create a mental image a fast as I would. Video really helps.

I already have a pdf with gear wear patterns explained (thanks Garret)
Got a tremec cluster for 140$, not too bad.
Choosing a rebuild kit depends on if the transmission use a reverse brake synchro or not. I did not find it yet on the service manual. If someone knows how to find this out, I'm listening.
 
denpo said:
MYBAD79 said:
I have no first hand experience with these trans cases but if the case deflects and stretches and if that is causing poorly meshed gears THEN.... the new gears won't mesh correctly if you use a stretched case... hate to be the guy with bad news but I'd hate you putting work and money into this and then find out the case is bad...

how about cleaning up the old gears and then check the meshing like you would on a differential ??? if the contact pattern is fine the case is probably fine, if not then its time for a new case....
Click to expand...
I will check this, just waiting for my rebuild instruction video to arrive to start pulling the trans apart.
Working in a foreign language, in a field you're new to, makes term less meaningfull. I understand the invidual terms, but putting them together don't create a mental image a fast as I would. Video really helps.

I already have a pdf with gear wear patterns explained (thanks Garret)
Got a tremec cluster for 140$, not too bad.
Choosing a rebuild kit depends on if the transmission use a reverse brake synchro or not. I did not find it yet on the service manual. If someone knows how to find this out, I'm listening.
Click to expand...

reverse not synchronized thats why it grinds till you have the clutch pedal in for a bit
 
Twin_Turbo said:
Uhm hate to tell you but the main reason why the gears on these break is because the case stretches and allows the shafts to shift and this makes for poor meshing gears and as such broken gears. If you are going to rebuild it, buy the beefier case from Gforce for 350 that eliminates the case stretch issue.
Click to expand...


MYBAD79 said:
I have no first hand experience with these trans cases but if the case deflects and stretches and if that is causing poorly meshed gears THEN.... the new gears won't mesh correctly if you use a stretched case... hate to be the guy with bad news but I'd hate you putting work and money into this and then find out the case is bad...

how about cleaning up the old gears and then check the meshing like you would on a differential ??? if the contact pattern is fine the case is probably fine, if not then its time for a new case....
Click to expand...
I guess you guys are proud of yourself ...I felt for the G-force case.
Too late for the ebay deal, oh well. :push:
I will have to replace one of the new bearing, casualties.
 
Ok, as a starter, here's a "in the process" of the rebuilt of my T5 into the G-Force reinforced case, will put more time on it next weekend. Note I had to grind the case and install the mainshaft without the driven 5th gear on to be able to fit it in.

16554eae2f5c6d482.jpg

I found a 153 tooth Camaro flywheel/cluth/pressure plate for the price of the flywheel alone, to I gave it a try :

16554eae2f5b7afc7.jpg

16554eae2f5c1c3af.jpg

16554eae2f5bc5ead.jpg

16554eae2f5a8929e.jpg

16554eae2f5adda27.jpg

16554eae2f5b31c13.jpg

All rust is surface rust.

Bear in mind it's the first time I have such part in my hand, but my understanding it that the flywheel will be fine after a resurfacing, the pressure plate would still do, and the clutch is gone.
Am I right?
 
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You can buy a clutch kit (flywheel, pressure plate, disk, throwout bearing, installation shaft) for around $100. I've even seen Rock Auto specials under $70.
I'm guessing you're going to have nearly that much buying individual parts and having the flywheel resurfaced.
IMHO, not worth the the chance of having to remove the trans again.
 
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the pressure plate is junk, you can not reface the pressure table without disassembling the whole thing. The flywheel can be resurfaced. Just buy a new disc and plate.
 
Twin_Turbo said:
the pressure plate is junk, you can not reface the pressure table without disassembling the whole thing. The flywheel can be resurfaced. Just buy a new disc and plate.
Click to expand...

:clap: Beat me 2 it, I agree entirely....OH, and I would want N/American made parts ,not some China import crap, which reinforces my opinion on that flywheel.....

NO freeking WAY to have a China made fly near my foot....period, end of discussion....
 
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