Is this normal? And is this ok?

[enkeivette]

Cherry, not using any sort of file. I'm using a hand held circular DA power sander.

TT, where is the color code? Is it in the VIN number?

 

[Twin_Turbo]

The trim tag is riveted to the drivers side a pillar.

 

[enkeivette]

The only tag that I can find riveted to the a pillar is the vin tag. Does the vin have the trim code in it? Or is there some other tag that I'm missing?

 

[enkeivette]

Found it, it's riveted just beneath the a pillar in the door jamb.

The color code is 26L, what color was that?!

 

[big2bird]

Found it, it's riveted just beneath the a pillar in the door jamb.

The color code is 26L, what color was that?!

Light blue

 

[Belgian1979vette]

gee, I have "regular bondo" on my car for 12 years now without a crack.....I believe bondo is a polyester and fiberglass is a polyester, making them compatible.....................

Polyester filler doesn't really stick to good to smc which was extensively used after 72 in our vettes

 

[turtlevette]

gee, I have "regular bondo" on my car for 12 years now without a crack.....I believe bondo is a polyester and fiberglass is a polyester, making them compatible.....................

Polyester filler doesn't really stick to good to smc which was extensively used after 72 in our vettes

what do you suggest we use?

 

[Belgian1979vette]

There are fillers on epoxy basis. I use them, but these are not for sale in the us. Probably a different brand has them over there.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

You will need special formulated resins, contact west systems or evercoat, they know what needs to be added (I think stinger posted here what the answer was)

 

[SMYDA]

To see which EVERCOAT product is right for you.... click here ....."EVERCOAT"


You will notice that most all of the "polyester putties" are SMC compatible.
SLICK SAND is basically just a SPRAYABLE putty.

The Evercoat body fillers (RAGE..AKA, bondo) make no mention of SMC compatibility.
Does not say either way. I would take this as a NO since the other products state they ARE for SMC.
I checked all our cans today. Even tried getting tech info from the paint stores.
(Might have some next week???????? If I do, I'll post it)

You can use most bodyfillers provided you prime the car FIRST with an epoxy primer.
(PPG DP line is a good epoxy primer).
The epoxy sticks to the glass .......... the filler sticks to the epoxy.
So technically your not actually putting the filler on the glass.





Just about all the SMC repairs I have done in the last several years were NON-Corvette
(but same stuff) and was done using the 3M 8115 and Evercoat Glazing Putties.
Haven't had any failures.

 

[SMYDA]

To have high spots and low spots like that? I swear I'm pressing the power sander down at the center and this is still happening.

The panels on that Vette are not going to sand perfectly flat because they
were never straight to begin with. The object is to NOT make it any wavier
than it already is. With all the rolls and curves on that body......and the fact
it is fiberglass....it is easy to make it worse.

Some paints sand easier than others......let the paper do the work, light pressure.
Patience is needed when it comes to Body Work.
Triple it when you add a Corvette body to the equation...........

Take it down to the black and hand block sand the rest.




I believe these pics were shot around 1981. Our car has the same layers.
Glass....grey coat.....black coat..........then the color coat.
Can't say why you have the two extra coats....unless it has to do with the lacquer they were still using at that time.
Our car (1981) is the first year they used BC/CC.........NO Lacquer.

 

[enkeivette]

Thanks SMYDA, you've been a big help. So would you say that I should expect some low spots while powersanding? I'll take a pic of my t top tonight and see what you think.

Also, there is a spot on my body where someone previously used some sort of filler, and as I was blasting the paint off with a pressure washer (that I had loosened with chemical stripper) I ate through the body work pretty bad. Not sure what was on there, don't think it's bondo. It's more porous than bondo and it's yellow. Anyways, should I try to remove more of the filler? Or just go over the damaged area with some other sort of filler? If so, what type would you recommend?

 

[SMYDA]

Yes.....expect wavy areas......We have waves in the middle our doors. :twitch:

I would go ahead and remove all the filler. Especially since it has already been
exposed to the chemical stripper. Also you will know what was being fixed.

(Let's see the damage..........PICS )


Similar situation with our hood.
I stripped this with a Bondo Hog and a 8" Soft Pad and then a DA.
I wouldn't advise a Novice to try it........
You would kiss those body lines in the center of the hood Goodby. :nuts:

Note... the "gray coat" is still intact over the majority of the hood.
The lightest areas are the actual SMC glass.
The dark areas is prior repair work that was done in the past.



There was far more filler on the hood then needed to be.
Also we have a number of star cracks in the hood.

Have not decided what we're going to do with this....
Fix the Hood ???
Modify it ????
Buy a custom aftermarket ???

 

[enkeivette]

K, here's a t-top that I've almost finished sanding, I feel like to avoid having low spots I need to use the corner of the DA sander very lightly and attack the top layers. If I keep it flat I'm more prone to getting those low spots.

But how does it look? Is it passable? I run my hand back and forth over it and it feels perfectly flat and smooth, or perfectly round where it curves.



I've got another question for you. On one side where the previous owner bonded in the rear bumper, it feels slightly wavy. It didn't look bad through the last paint job but I can feel it. Should I scratch up the surface before applying filler, or can I just slide it over the epoxy primer?

 

[Belgian1979vette]

Gray coat ? Any idea what it was ?

 

[enkeivette]

Isn't that the bare glass???

 

[MYBAD79]

Once you got all that old paint off you can spray a coat of either epoxy or urethane primer. then get a water sprayer and spray it wet after it fully cured of course.... the water will look like clearcoat and you can see every small imperfection.
here's an example, nothing but grey primer and water..... :



BTW....You never said anything about the razor blade method.....

 

[Belgian1979vette]

Isn't that the bare glass???

That's what I was thinking, just the very top layer of the smc. It's very thin so you sand through it easily.

 

[SMYDA]

K, here's a t-top that I've almost finished sanding, I feel like to avoid having low spots I need to use the corner of the DA sander very lightly and attack the top layers. If I keep it flat I'm more prone to getting those low spots.


I've got another question for you. On one side where the previous owner bonded in the rear bumper, it feels slightly wavy. It didn't look bad through the last paint job but I can feel it. Should I scratch up the surface before applying filler, or can I just slide it over the epoxy primer?

Keep in mind here that if your keeping your sander flat your not getting low spots
but revealing low spots........there is a difference.

Take a look at your photo (if my eyes are not deceiving me ) I marked the
HIGH spots with RED X's and the LOW with YELLOW O's



The X's are where you're sanding through First....indicating a High spot.
Which in turn "Reveals" the O's...Low spots.
If the sander is held properly the low spots are not Created but Revealed.
If you turn your sander on end you will only make them lower.
Not seeing the paint in that spot any longer DOES NOT mean the low has gone away..........It's still there.
This is where a High Build Primer or Slick Sand comes in......to fill these minor
voids and to give you a surface you can Block Sand Level.




2nd Question: Read the "Tech Info" for the Epoxy Primer you plan to use.
If it is with in the window of time aloud you can apply the filler with out sanding.
This creates a chemical bond.

If you wait to long.........sanding is required to create a mechanical bond.

(If you using PPGs DP line look at post #7 of this thread
http://vettemod.com/forum/showthread.php?t=773 )


When applying Body Fillers in general..............
I always sand the surface with a "minimum" of P80 grit.
If applying Glazing Putties a "minimum" of P180.

 

[SMYDA]

Gray coat ? Any idea what it was ?

That's what I was thinking, just the very top layer of the smc. It's very thin so you sand through it easily.

Look back at the 3 assembly line photos I posted.
Photo #2 shows the Gray Coat which is not present in Photo #1.
This is NOT a layer of SMC but some form of primer or sealer.
Which.......I honestly don't know.

SMC is Sheet "MOLDED" Compound ..........that Gray Coat was Sprayed on.