The engine assembler specified these springs for the cam. Machine shop also had the cam sheet so he knew the springs for this build and they should have worked according to our discussion this morning. Going to take a few more pictures and talk with spring manufacturer tomorrow.
LS Swap in 78 Vette
- Thread starter donnie_19
- Start date
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
Looks like the retainer broke 1st, valve hung down and got intimate with the piston 
How does the piston/bore look?
What is the coil bind height on those springs?
How does the piston/bore look?
What is the coil bind height on those springs?
Bullshark
Well-known member
I went over to the hanger this morning to take a look. I think that is exactly what happened Marc. I saw a very slight imprint of the valve on the top ofthe piston. Visual only with no damage to the piston. The cylinder wall has two gouges about the size of a pencil eraser deep enough for concern. 10-20 deep. I'd pack the engine up and dump it on the builders door step. No excuse for this IMO.
denpo
Carburated Nihilist
All I can offer is my compassion, and you got it. :gurney:
Going to machine shop in the morning to discuss what to do with repairing my engine. Sent several photos and a warranty form to spring manufacturer.
Did get my 2004 R tranny completely overhauled and new shift kit installed while waiting for the LS engine to get fixed.
Did get my 2004 R tranny completely overhauled and new shift kit installed while waiting for the LS engine to get fixed.
Picking up engine in the morning
Hopefully back in action soon. Picking up engine tomorrow from machine shop. New heads, valve springs and push rods. Machine shop ended up honing the damaged cylinder wall and the piston and rod were checked and should be fine. Only other option would be a new block and rebuild. No guarantees or warranty.
Lesson learned the hard way should have bought a crate motor with a warranty.
Hopefully back in action soon. Picking up engine tomorrow from machine shop. New heads, valve springs and push rods. Machine shop ended up honing the damaged cylinder wall and the piston and rod were checked and should be fine. Only other option would be a new block and rebuild. No guarantees or warranty.
Lesson learned the hard way should have bought a crate motor with a warranty.
Back on the road
Picked up the engine from the machine shop today. Ended up not charging for the labor or parts and the engine builder provided a set of heads to replace the damaged head. Glad they both stepped up and stood behind their work. Ended up going double springs and different pushrods. Honed the cylinder and reinstalled the piston. Bearings and rod were inspected and deemed to be reuseable.
Started setting up the engine today around 9:30 and fired it up at 6:00 tonight. Sounds great and can't wait to drive around tomorrow.
Thanks Bullshark for the help and my other friend Dewayne for the installation today.
Picked up the engine from the machine shop today. Ended up not charging for the labor or parts and the engine builder provided a set of heads to replace the damaged head. Glad they both stepped up and stood behind their work. Ended up going double springs and different pushrods. Honed the cylinder and reinstalled the piston. Bearings and rod were inspected and deemed to be reuseable.
Started setting up the engine today around 9:30 and fired it up at 6:00 tonight. Sounds great and can't wait to drive around tomorrow.
Thanks Bullshark for the help and my other friend Dewayne for the installation today.
Thats great that they stepped up and didn't bone you. You don't see that much these days.
denpo
Carburated Nihilist
Glad to hear it turned out right :thumbs:
Moving forward with mods
Now that engine is running and transmission is shifting correct, going to finish the exhaust. Need to replace the existing cherry bombs with some flowmaster mufflers to quiet the cabin noise. Can't hear yourself think.
I have a set of dakota digital gauges to install and need to get the fiero seats mounted.
Now that engine is running and transmission is shifting correct, going to finish the exhaust. Need to replace the existing cherry bombs with some flowmaster mufflers to quiet the cabin noise. Can't hear yourself think.
I have a set of dakota digital gauges to install and need to get the fiero seats mounted.
Vintage Air
Finally got my VA Gen IV charged up last night. I am using the 3 knobs for control. The mode control knob that controls the vents doesn't change air flow to the different vents only blows on the floor. Doesn't seem like the fan blows very hard but that could be normal. Also the compressor kicks on and off when the A/C is on max cooling. The air temp coming out of the floor vent was below 50 degrees.
Going to call Vintage Air today.
The Sanden compressor sure puts a load on the engine. When I turned the A/C on the engine died and would not idle with the extra load. Need to adjust the ECU to handle the extra load.
Spent a couple of hours on Wednesday evening getting the Holley ECU tuned and parameters set. Thanks to Chip and Bullshark for the late night. Need to spend some time driving at various RPM's so it continues to learn.
Finally got my VA Gen IV charged up last night. I am using the 3 knobs for control. The mode control knob that controls the vents doesn't change air flow to the different vents only blows on the floor. Doesn't seem like the fan blows very hard but that could be normal. Also the compressor kicks on and off when the A/C is on max cooling. The air temp coming out of the floor vent was below 50 degrees.
Going to call Vintage Air today.
The Sanden compressor sure puts a load on the engine. When I turned the A/C on the engine died and would not idle with the extra load. Need to adjust the ECU to handle the extra load.
Spent a couple of hours on Wednesday evening getting the Holley ECU tuned and parameters set. Thanks to Chip and Bullshark for the late night. Need to spend some time driving at various RPM's so it continues to learn.
DC3
Well-known member
I had the same problem when I installed my VA system. Can't remember exactly which connection it was but I had a connector that wasn't making good contact. After pulling it apart a time or two and re-seating all the connectors, mine started working. I currently have a similar issue with the temperature control. I get full cold until I barely turn the temperature down and then I get full heat. Apparently my blend door isn't working and I suspect another connection problem or maybe a bad blend door motor. I just haven't wanted to tackle removing the right dash pad again to sort this one out. I should have fully tested the system before re-installing the dash and center console.
My fan blows pretty hard on high. And its loud on high. Is yours loud? Maybe once you get the airflow sorted out, this will not be an issue. I do remember also having a problem at first with only being able to get low speed no matter the position of the switch. Not quite sure how I resolved that one but after double checking all the connections, it started working fine.
My air temp is usually just below 40 degrees coming out of the lower vent on the drivers dash. I notice a little drop in RPM when the compressor comes on but not bad. Still idles fine.
DC
Last edited:
VA
I need to pull the dash apart and check a few things that VA suggested today. I am also install a Digital Dakota dash so it has to come apart anyway. Got the relay wired in for a/c compressor off and wired for the a/c IAC control. Then business as usual a loose fitting dumped all the new freon. Good news is the new relay and wiring didn't blow any fuses.
I need to pull the dash apart and check a few things that VA suggested today. I am also install a Digital Dakota dash so it has to come apart anyway. Got the relay wired in for a/c compressor off and wired for the a/c IAC control. Then business as usual a loose fitting dumped all the new freon. Good news is the new relay and wiring didn't blow any fuses.
DC3,
I had problems with the air doors, temp, and fan on my VA AC.
There's a calibration procedure that they started including in their manual recently. I had to do it on mine this spring and everything worked after that. It involves grounding an unlabeled wire and moving the controls.
I had problems with the air doors, temp, and fan on my VA AC.
There's a calibration procedure that they started including in their manual recently. I had to do it on mine this spring and everything worked after that. It involves grounding an unlabeled wire and moving the controls.
