greg75vette
The Traffic Baron
Those are Tom's parts but I got them from Gary on here. He redid my whole rear end.
My '75
- Thread starter greg75vette
- Start date
greg75vette
The Traffic Baron
Ultimate Necro bump. I had to leave cars behind as life got very complicated. I'm finally getting back into them. I hate to see the forum in the shape it's in :crutches:
phantomjock
Well-known member
Well understood! I too am getting a restart. Welcome back.
Cheers - Jim
Cheers - Jim
greg75vette
The Traffic Baron
Thanks! Hopefully I can get to this car soon and provide actual content.
GT6Steve
Well-known member
How much electronics has to come with an LS engine? And where can it fit? LOL
greg75vette
The Traffic Baron
It really depends on what direction you go in. You can:
- Run it like any SBC.
They may intakes to fit carbs and I believe even ones that adapt a distributor. Though a carb plus an 'ignition module" tucked into the intake area is pretty popular. You can adapt all senor points for stock 'old school' gauges, or your new ones. Any sensors that an ECU would need or care about can be forgotten.
-Run it like it came.
This is my favorite. When I bought the engine I had them pull the original ECU and engine wiring harness. I reference it somewhere in this thread, but if you get a separate fuse block, you can power the new and swap harness to make a stand alone set up. The harness only needs about 6 wires for always hot, IGN +, GND, etc. Additional sensors can be added for gauges, so the gauges don't always need to talk to the ECU. You can also strip the harness down (like I did) of all systems you aren't using. Any 'extraneous emissions', A/C, etc can be taken out. LS1tech has a LOT of stickies in their swap section on what is needed and where it goes in the harness.
-A little from Column A and little from Column B
This is probably the best if you're not into wiring and have the extra money. You can buy stand alone harnesses (what was made in Option 2) that can come with or without an ECU. Some can even be custom configured if you have some odd-ball request. You can also buy these with extended looms so you can but the new fuse box and ECU somewhere else out of the engine bay. GM even makes these that give everything you'd need to get it going, including a drive-by-wire pedal if you had an electric throttle body. Mine's cable. Prices (when I looked over 5 years ago) were ~$400 to $1500, depending on shop and accessories.
-The simplest, but the worst
You could also get an aftermarket FI system like the ones you can get for SBCs. These are brainless to install, but have the most drawbacks. They're typically expensive, they aren't as adaptable as the FI that came on the engine, you're locked into them as a tuner, they're typically TBI, not port injection (not always), which isn't as efficient as a design. I think these are fine for an OG carbed SBC/BBC, but seems like such a backwards step for an LSx.
I feel Options 2 and 3 are the best. If I did it all over again, I'd probably do Option 3 over 2. Simply because they're brand new tested harnesses. My hardness was nearly a decade old when I got it. Now its 20. How much longer is the wiring going to last before it's a danger? Now if I finished the swap on time, it wouldn't have been a concern! With that said, if you use the stock harness or use a stock length, the fuse block and ECU are best in the engine bay. I have mine near the heater box, mounted on the fender. I know others have mounted them under the dash or in the passenger behind-the-seat storage box with either bought or self-made extended looms.
- Run it like any SBC.
They may intakes to fit carbs and I believe even ones that adapt a distributor. Though a carb plus an 'ignition module" tucked into the intake area is pretty popular. You can adapt all senor points for stock 'old school' gauges, or your new ones. Any sensors that an ECU would need or care about can be forgotten.
-Run it like it came.
This is my favorite. When I bought the engine I had them pull the original ECU and engine wiring harness. I reference it somewhere in this thread, but if you get a separate fuse block, you can power the new and swap harness to make a stand alone set up. The harness only needs about 6 wires for always hot, IGN +, GND, etc. Additional sensors can be added for gauges, so the gauges don't always need to talk to the ECU. You can also strip the harness down (like I did) of all systems you aren't using. Any 'extraneous emissions', A/C, etc can be taken out. LS1tech has a LOT of stickies in their swap section on what is needed and where it goes in the harness.
-A little from Column A and little from Column B
This is probably the best if you're not into wiring and have the extra money. You can buy stand alone harnesses (what was made in Option 2) that can come with or without an ECU. Some can even be custom configured if you have some odd-ball request. You can also buy these with extended looms so you can but the new fuse box and ECU somewhere else out of the engine bay. GM even makes these that give everything you'd need to get it going, including a drive-by-wire pedal if you had an electric throttle body. Mine's cable. Prices (when I looked over 5 years ago) were ~$400 to $1500, depending on shop and accessories.
-The simplest, but the worst
You could also get an aftermarket FI system like the ones you can get for SBCs. These are brainless to install, but have the most drawbacks. They're typically expensive, they aren't as adaptable as the FI that came on the engine, you're locked into them as a tuner, they're typically TBI, not port injection (not always), which isn't as efficient as a design. I think these are fine for an OG carbed SBC/BBC, but seems like such a backwards step for an LSx.
I feel Options 2 and 3 are the best. If I did it all over again, I'd probably do Option 3 over 2. Simply because they're brand new tested harnesses. My hardness was nearly a decade old when I got it. Now its 20. How much longer is the wiring going to last before it's a danger? Now if I finished the swap on time, it wouldn't have been a concern! With that said, if you use the stock harness or use a stock length, the fuse block and ECU are best in the engine bay. I have mine near the heater box, mounted on the fender. I know others have mounted them under the dash or in the passenger behind-the-seat storage box with either bought or self-made extended looms.
rtj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2011
- Messages
- 3,195
I hate to see the forum in the shape it's in :crutches:
All the car forums are slowing down it seems. There are a few really good projects here.
Good luck with the restarted project.
greg75vette
The Traffic Baron
I hate to see the forum in the shape it's in :crutches:
All the car forums are slowing down it seems. There are a few really good projects here.
Good luck with the restarted project.
Forums in general are getting low. Somehow, social media has cut down traffic, but I just don't understand how. Forums are great for history and tutorials to name a few and both can't be done well on any SM I've seen.
Thanks I'll need it!
GT6Steve
Well-known member
Thanx for the excellent mini tutorial. I want to do this...
greg75vette
The Traffic Baron
DOIT
It's not too complicated. I've had some more hiccups due to my transmission choice. The engine and aftermarket is pretty supportive these days.
It's not too complicated. I've had some more hiccups due to my transmission choice. The engine and aftermarket is pretty supportive these days.
phantomjock
Well-known member
following the build...
Speaking of "restart," I went back to the beginning of your "rebuild."
I noted you kept/added an ARB on the front end. I was going to just use the composite transverse spring in that role. Any real life experience - either way. Inquiring minds want to know - OK nosy people too.
BTW - I think all vehicles should be named -- Is she still "Pandora?" Awesome choice.
Cheers - Jim
Speaking of "restart," I went back to the beginning of your "rebuild."
I noted you kept/added an ARB on the front end. I was going to just use the composite transverse spring in that role. Any real life experience - either way. Inquiring minds want to know - OK nosy people too.
BTW - I think all vehicles should be named -- Is she still "Pandora?" Awesome choice.
Cheers - Jim
greg75vette
The Traffic Baron
ARB? I'm not familiar with that acronym.
But I did love the suspension when she was up and running. I didn't do any crazy alignment, kept the old tires you see and could not believe how well it felt. Everything was planted and controlled.
Specifically to the front end, I did like the reduction in unsprung weight (I believe it was you mentioning that in another thread), the right height control and the fairly easy way to swap out different spring rates by adjusting the mounting point or swapping the spring entirely. I don't recall what mine is.
With that said, once I get her mobile again, I'll have to reassess. I wound up softening the spring mounts front and rear and I'll probably raise her an inch or so. Mostly for my wife. I'll also have to replace the spring, as when it was moved to to my new home, my father's friend used it as a tie-down point :bomb: I don't see damage, but I feel it's the right thing to do.
As for names, yes! We name all of our cars, and hers will forever be Pandora since I don't think she'll ever be finished for good. Thanks for the compliment.
The other cars in the fleet are Blue Streak for the WRX (the worst name by far, but has an explanation), Culprit for the Z28 (my Uncle's name for her), Sydney for the SS (she's a Holden by birth, afterall), and Penny for the minivan :2nd:
But I did love the suspension when she was up and running. I didn't do any crazy alignment, kept the old tires you see and could not believe how well it felt. Everything was planted and controlled.
Specifically to the front end, I did like the reduction in unsprung weight (I believe it was you mentioning that in another thread), the right height control and the fairly easy way to swap out different spring rates by adjusting the mounting point or swapping the spring entirely. I don't recall what mine is.
With that said, once I get her mobile again, I'll have to reassess. I wound up softening the spring mounts front and rear and I'll probably raise her an inch or so. Mostly for my wife. I'll also have to replace the spring, as when it was moved to to my new home, my father's friend used it as a tie-down point :bomb: I don't see damage, but I feel it's the right thing to do.
As for names, yes! We name all of our cars, and hers will forever be Pandora since I don't think she'll ever be finished for good. Thanks for the compliment.
The other cars in the fleet are Blue Streak for the WRX (the worst name by far, but has an explanation), Culprit for the Z28 (my Uncle's name for her), Sydney for the SS (she's a Holden by birth, afterall), and Penny for the minivan :2nd:
phantomjock
Well-known member
Cool
ARB = Anti-Roll Bar. When you get her running again, it would be interesting to do some runs with it connected - then with it loose on one side. A quick chance to see if that extra weight is worth carrying around up there. Might be - might not. Bet you'd note either way.
Cheers - Jim
ARB = Anti-Roll Bar. When you get her running again, it would be interesting to do some runs with it connected - then with it loose on one side. A quick chance to see if that extra weight is worth carrying around up there. Might be - might not. Bet you'd note either way.
Cheers - Jim
greg75vette
The Traffic Baron
Ha! never in a million years would I have guessed that. I was thinking A-arms or something along those lines.
I forget the spec of the bar, but it is thicker than stock. I know the rear is more substantial. I credit the rear bar with a lot of the handling as he tracked better in a corner. Granted this was all street driving. It'll be awhile before she's back on the road, though. The list has only grown due to age. The tires are barely rubber, for example.
I forget the spec of the bar, but it is thicker than stock. I know the rear is more substantial. I credit the rear bar with a lot of the handling as he tracked better in a corner. Granted this was all street driving. It'll be awhile before she's back on the road, though. The list has only grown due to age. The tires are barely rubber, for example.
