need advice or finishing up flares for paint

[daveL82]

I went with a different approach with my 80 as the flares can be removed by un screwing them. I'm now at the point where I need to do a bit of fill in some of the low spots then seal before paint.

The flares where cut from Vanacors full fiberglass quarters so there are still areas with a lot of black gelcoat. Areas I had to rework either have some matt or have been filled with a two part mix that contains fiberglass strands.

As these parts are removable I would like to seal and paint at home. What should be used to seal the glass (primer, sealer etc...) and what type of paint should I use? Going to stay with the original dark claret scheme as this fits the era or the car but have considered pulling the metallic out.

I have a compressor and an low pressure gun a friend gave me.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

no idea on available products over there but those ccw wheels are awesome :thumbs:

 

[SMYDA]

Check out the Lars' Paper: Corvette Body & Paint Repair Basics
I just posted in this section .......... should answer most of your questions.
If not, post them here ............... :thumbs:

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Hey, you have the original fenders under there? Why didn't you cut those? Now you still may have an issue with the tire rubbing?

 

[daveL82]

Marck, Those are early test fit pictures and original fender lips were cut later

 

[tracdogg2]

Dave,
Use K36 primer. You can get it at English color.
Mike

 

[MYBAD79]

Any Epoxy primer should seal the fiberglass. I bought the expensive PPG stuff (DP40 I believe) and it is awesome, however, the cheaper Kustom brand seems to be just as good...

I have a question: if you cut the fender lip anyways, why do you want these flares to be removable ? I would think you're not going to drive the car with the chopped fenders ????

 

[daveL82]

Mike - thanks for the help on the primer and I'll probably hit the English paint store on Ave K in Plano. Just need to figure out which gun to use. Cool avatar.


Mybad - when I was involved with race cars during the 70's and early 80's the majority had fenders or flares that were held on with rivets, dzus or screws to allow for reapir of just the flare and better access to brakes and suspension. I like the look and it sure is nice when working on the rear brakes and suspension.

 

[tracdogg2]

Dave,
You need a large orfice gun to spray with. If you don't have one I can come over sometime with my gun and shoot it. I use the DP90 for metal. The K36 is designed to build and it's great for blocking.
Mike

 

[daveL82]

Mike

I have two guns that I can use. One is a close out from Lowes and is called a 270G HVLP spray gun by ingersoll rand (new) and a used DeVilbiss gun a buddy gave me. The Devilbiss has a 2 quart aluminum pressure cup with a valve on it, two pressure gauges and the compressor connector. Then two lines run from the cup to the gun Air. The gun nozzle has 46MP on it and gun has JGHV-530

 

[daveL82]

Mike - further update as I went to English paint and body and they gal there was very helpful. Got the supplies to finsh up some of the fill work left to go, the K36 primer (1qt to start with) and a good mask and filter.

She looked at both guns and said the Devillbiss nozzle was too big so she recommended starting with the other gun which is a bit undersized and use it to practice/build up the primer vs. spending the money on a new nozzle.

 

[MYBAD79]

I am using a $30 HVLP Ebay gun for primer. It is blue, can easily be found on Ebay and comes witha 1.4mm nozzle for reduced epoxy sealer and a 2.0mm nozzle for primer or epoxy. This is my favorite gun for thick primer, the expensive finishline or my detail gun are for base/clear only - I'd be really pi$$ed if I mess those up with epoxy.... :sweat:

I also used one of these pressurized 2qt guns... these are made for waterbased paint. I used it with Kilz sealer on my porch.... gummed up the hoses and even after cleaning it for almost an hour I was never able to get it to spray right again.... if you use it with primer or even epoxy with activator it's almost guaranteed to clogg up.... you'll need an entire gallon of laquer thinner to get it clean again and even that might not be good enough....

What style bolt are you going to use for the flares ? Flat head stainless ??? I would think you need a recessed area like a recessed spot face to make this look right.... got any close up pics ??
i like the look you're describing but I think it fits the older chrome bumper models better... but I am curious to see how yours turns out... I have a hard time imagining what this is going to look like with the modern rubber bumpers....

 

[Yellow73SB]

If your spraying metallic get an expensive gun

The cheep guns seem to work fine for regular paint and clear

 

[tracdogg2]

Dave,
It should work with the smaller tip but you will have to go slow to keep from spraying dry.
Mike

P.S. Thanks on my avatar. She's my daughter.

 

[daveL82]

I started the final sanding/fill prep work last night so I'm sure I have a few weeks of work a head of me in getting the flares ready for primer.

Heading up to our place in AR this weekend so no work on the vette. I'll be up there checking on site prepartion for our new pole barn which I'll use for primering and painting the main car body. Got to get some fishing in while up there.

 

[SUPERPOWERS]

any progress pics on the flares?