Plastic Fantastic 2

One thing you may want to look at is bump steer in the rear suspension. With an IRS with toe links, raising or lowering the outboard end of the toe link changes the bump steer characteristics, just as changing caster on the front suspension does. Using the C7 as an example, rear caster set to 0 degrees is critical in preventing unwanted bump steer characteristics. I don't know what the caster of the Camaro suspension should be, but you could bump steer the rear suspension just like you would the front, or you could map all the pick-up points and run them through a suspension analyzer. If you are introducing bump steer (on one side or another, or both), that could cause toe-out under compression that could cause a snap oversteer. Just sayin'
 
SBG - If you map-em and send 'em, I'll run 'em.
It,s hitting 104 and tough to finish the outdoor projos!
But I got some welding to do - just to add to the heat!

Cheers - Jim
 
mfain said:
One thing you may want to look at is bump steer in the rear suspension. With an IRS with toe links, raising or lowering the outboard end of the toe link changes the bump steer characteristics, just as changing caster on the front suspension does. Using the C7 as an example, rear caster set to 0 degrees is critical in preventing unwanted bump steer characteristics. I don't know what the caster of the Camaro suspension should be, but you could bump steer the rear suspension just like you would the front, or you could map all the pick-up points and run them through a suspension analyzer. If you are introducing bump steer (on one side or another, or both), that could cause toe-out under compression that could cause a snap oversteer. Just sayin'
Click to expand...
so the pictures weren't lying, the camber on the rear is substantially different right to left. The question is only 'which moved' I think it's the left rear. Last year, I had trouble with the alignment cams on the front - so I replaced everything to eliminate them and replace them with stacked shims. The front seems to be just fine now. Of course, the problem travelled to the next weak link. I've ordered near lower control arms that eliminate the cams.

and I agree - the alignment was not static, and when the lower arm moved, that changed the rear toe as well. I guess the bright side in all of this is I'm going to wait before I change to double adjustable shocks. the pictures also showed me that with the shocks properly set, the car maintains good balance in the turns. Not saying I'd turn down a sponsorship but I'm not going to sponsor them myself until I get this latest fix installed (end of August)
 
and headlight fixed
48fII4Nh.jpg

the 'fixes' include new rear lower control arms - this picture indicated my alignment had moved
IZzJC5eh.jpg

and yes, I'll move it back to where it belongs and run it for now
 
parts missing
br9meiBh.jpg

onward with this fix (but it will get stopped before the end...argh!)
the fail was the plastic holder
9aSQQLnh.jpg

I have 3 of 4 buckets, but even they need to be modified
tMAmCQ5h.jpg

what I'm missing is a ring to hold the light in place. I'm sure I have one I can borrow off the 64 wagon but I couldn't find them.... so to be continued

I've also scheduled a full day dyno tune in October - hopefully this year, I can pack the car away in the trailer ready to run for next year....
 
looks good i always found all those adjusting parts and dust sleeves and springs to be interesting, and old rusty ones never seem to work properly
 
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