SRountree
Well-known member
Very nice work!
Plastic Fantastic 2
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
these might end up as front signals
oh good grief
these are supposed to fit the C3 light bucket.
uh no
with that fail, time to fix the brakes
editedfirst trim the spacer down
tight without hanging the brakesedited
then finally hood pins
took way longer then it should have
but got a start on the steering column
oh good grief
these are supposed to fit the C3 light bucket.
uh no
with that fail, time to fix the brakes
editedfirst trim the spacer down
tight without hanging the brakesedited
then finally hood pins
took way longer then it should have
but got a start on the steering column
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
back to glorious noise... still have to tune it, but it does sound adequate
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYZMm7jmkao&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYZMm7jmkao&feature=youtu.be
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Talked to Oracle today, it seems Corvette Mod is claiming that these lights fit and are specially made for them but aren't.edited I'll make them fit but as you will see when I do - it's not a small hole.
onto more pleasant stuff
new Fitech computer
back together
started on the steering column.edited I'm missing a piece that was broken... but it will work for now
first fun thing, the telescoping portion makes the ring compressor useless
see the bolt in the end of the telescoping piece? that's to lock it so I can use the compressor
Also, that tab with the white bit.... you need it and it will fall into the column... ask me how I know
if you wish to remove the key barrel, these are where you need to press
beside press the button on the barrel, you need to turn the ignition switch then figure out a way to pull it outedited
and time to fix the starter wiring (take the alarm and interlock out)
onto more pleasant stuff
new Fitech computer
back together
started on the steering column.edited I'm missing a piece that was broken... but it will work for now
first fun thing, the telescoping portion makes the ring compressor useless
see the bolt in the end of the telescoping piece? that's to lock it so I can use the compressor
Also, that tab with the white bit.... you need it and it will fall into the column... ask me how I know
if you wish to remove the key barrel, these are where you need to press
beside press the button on the barrel, you need to turn the ignition switch then figure out a way to pull it outedited
and time to fix the starter wiring (take the alarm and interlock out)
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
rubbers and wires
first wires
fans wired
and in even less excitement... rubber installation
if you want to know the best way to get good adhesion.... and to be sure you didn't put too much on...shut the door
and finally, all I have to trim is everything between the calipers... stupid Corvette Mods...edited
first wires
fans wired
and in even less excitement... rubber installation
if you want to know the best way to get good adhesion.... and to be sure you didn't put too much on...shut the door
and finally, all I have to trim is everything between the calipers... stupid Corvette Mods...edited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
the tale of two suppliers.edited Where Corvette Mods was absolutely terrible, Genssi was exactly the opposite.edited Genssi acknowledged their mistake, they fixed the problem to my satisfaction, and just now, called to verbally apologize and be sure I had heard that they had resolved the problem.edited editedI look forward to ordering from them again.editededited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
lights.
the first test is if it will even fit (depth). yes
according to CM, you just need to cut a small hole and a notch
there we go, small hole and a notch
bastards
but it's close, one of the stands is too tall but outside of that, I can make it work... whether I use cut up old housings or just lathe something new remains to be seen
and I got to practice my beer can welding
I spent some time tonight stacking interior parts and figuring out what I'm still missing
the first test is if it will even fit (depth). yes
according to CM, you just need to cut a small hole and a notch
there we go, small hole and a notch
bastards
but it's close, one of the stands is too tall but outside of that, I can make it work... whether I use cut up old housings or just lathe something new remains to be seen
and I got to practice my beer can welding
I spent some time tonight stacking interior parts and figuring out what I'm still missing
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
lights...
imagine the 'simple' task - all you do is cut 90% of the housing away and one stand.... fu Corvette mod
and yet, it's not like it was hard
the stand you have to cut
paint light holders
and viola
and outside under her own power... where I found that the fuel pump wasn't coming on and Powermaster still makes junk
but there could be light... just have to wire it... oh and the plug they wired.... not the same as GM wiring....edited
imagine the 'simple' task - all you do is cut 90% of the housing away and one stand.... fu Corvette mod
and yet, it's not like it was hard
the stand you have to cut
paint light holders
and viola
and outside under her own power... where I found that the fuel pump wasn't coming on and Powermaster still makes junk
but there could be light... just have to wire it... oh and the plug they wired.... not the same as GM wiring....edited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
lights...
imagine the 'simple' task - all you do is cut 90% of the housing away and one stand....
and yet, it's not like it was hard
the stand you have to cut
paint light holders
and viola
and outside under her own power... where I found that the fuel pump wasn't coming on and Powermaster still makes junk
but there could be light... just have to wire it... oh and the plug they wired.... not the same as GM wiring....edited
imagine the 'simple' task - all you do is cut 90% of the housing away and one stand....
and yet, it's not like it was hard
the stand you have to cut
paint light holders
and viola
and outside under her own power... where I found that the fuel pump wasn't coming on and Powermaster still makes junk
but there could be light... just have to wire it... oh and the plug they wired.... not the same as GM wiring....edited
bobs77vet
Well-known member
its good to move it under its own power, its looking good.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I'll probably put insurance on it tomorrow, while it's probably a month from 'drive' (presuming the last of the parts arrive).... I know me, and I've driven far less complete vehicles ... this one also wins my 'most stated value' car... they wouldn't insure it for less then 50k...
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I'm kind of waiting on parts so doing some misc. stuff.... like the console
paint the chrome
and glue on weather stripping
paint the chrome
and glue on weather stripping
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
so this may go into hiatus for a week or two.edited I'm waiting on a bunch of parts, most notably is a plastic bit that goes in the steering column.edited Without it, I can't assemble much more.... it really isn't an issue with suppliers, apparently they're doing very well as people spend time on their projects - but that reduces inventory, Tomorrow I'll put the new starter on and see how far I can get beyond that.... and try to find the missing headliner. I found 1 of 2, so I guess I need to tear the shop apart to find that other bit....edited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Time to install parts... things did start arriving, so I could carry on for a minute
I refuse to use Powermaster, I'm not really a fan of knockoffs, but these weren't $1,000... for a 3.1 hp starter
looks just like a tilton
gratuitous engine shot (for those who only have a small block)
in other news... the glow gauges work-ish.edited well, all except oil pressure and the wideband o2.edited I also tested the tach, and it needs a new board.editededited
so I ordered a Dakota Digital dash
I hesitated because I still can't get the clock to work in my '40, but outside of that - it's been very reliable... this should also future proof the gauges.edited I'm still not convinced I'm going to keep this car (unlike the FJ40 which can be sold in my estate).... so putting gauge in that are plug and play with anything is a good idea and they look good too.... the best part is I won't worry about the tach dying.edited PF1 had 2 boards during its tenancy here...edited
I refuse to use Powermaster, I'm not really a fan of knockoffs, but these weren't $1,000... for a 3.1 hp starter
looks just like a tilton
gratuitous engine shot (for those who only have a small block)
in other news... the glow gauges work-ish.edited well, all except oil pressure and the wideband o2.edited I also tested the tach, and it needs a new board.editededited
so I ordered a Dakota Digital dash
I hesitated because I still can't get the clock to work in my '40, but outside of that - it's been very reliable... this should also future proof the gauges.edited I'm still not convinced I'm going to keep this car (unlike the FJ40 which can be sold in my estate).... so putting gauge in that are plug and play with anything is a good idea and they look good too.... the best part is I won't worry about the tach dying.edited PF1 had 2 boards during its tenancy here...edited
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
the last time I put anything in this was 20 years ago... still not through it all
though it is getting thinner
why, you ask? because I needed 4 pop rivetsedited
yesterday, installed the spoiler
and started on the rear access panel
did I need to put a seam around the edge? absolutely, I needed to play with my bead roller....
not exciting stuff, waiting on parts from pretty much everyone... of course, some was supposed to arrive today, but they sent it via FedUp... so nope.
though it is getting thinner
why, you ask? because I needed 4 pop rivetsedited
yesterday, installed the spoiler
and started on the rear access panel
did I need to put a seam around the edge? absolutely, I needed to play with my bead roller....
not exciting stuff, waiting on parts from pretty much everyone... of course, some was supposed to arrive today, but they sent it via FedUp... so nope.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
what a useless day.... first
I quite nearly took this out on the street but it wasn't running right then tonight when I went to put it away, the starter wouldn't turn the motor over... battery wasn't topped off, but at 70% with a 3 hp starter... it should have started.
however
the bad news is... why one wheel?edited maybe dirt was on the fringe and it does look kind of like it spun... anyway, that was just the start
I bought a lift kit for my Colorado DD pickup.... and 2 very major parts didn't arrive.... and I didn't realize that until I had it apart....
the lower cross shafts are mia.... which means I'm driving my suburban ... and tonight its starter started acting up....
thankfully, I still have the '40 - but even that needs more time spent tuning....
I quite nearly took this out on the street but it wasn't running right then tonight when I went to put it away, the starter wouldn't turn the motor over... battery wasn't topped off, but at 70% with a 3 hp starter... it should have started.
however
the bad news is... why one wheel?edited maybe dirt was on the fringe and it does look kind of like it spun... anyway, that was just the start
I bought a lift kit for my Colorado DD pickup.... and 2 very major parts didn't arrive.... and I didn't realize that until I had it apart....
the lower cross shafts are mia.... which means I'm driving my suburban ... and tonight its starter started acting up....
thankfully, I still have the '40 - but even that needs more time spent tuning....
rtj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2011
- Messages
- 3,231
One wheel? Could be positraction slipping too much. Need a diff expert to weigh in. I know my c3’s typically never did that. Car looks good, must feel great.
Edit:
Of course they are trying to sell a new rear end...
“ In addition to multiple gear ratios, Camaro owners also have a wide choice of differential options, depending on how they’ll be driving the car. “The factory clutch style limited slip differential does a marginal job of torque biasing in situations of unequal traction,” Capek explains.”
https://www.lsxmag.com/tech-stories/drivetrain/strange-solution-5th-gen-camaro-rearend-woes/
Edit:
Of course they are trying to sell a new rear end...
“ In addition to multiple gear ratios, Camaro owners also have a wide choice of differential options, depending on how they’ll be driving the car. “The factory clutch style limited slip differential does a marginal job of torque biasing in situations of unequal traction,” Capek explains.”
https://www.lsxmag.com/tech-stories/drivetrain/strange-solution-5th-gen-camaro-rearend-woes/
Last edited:
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
my warning radar goes up when a magazine article doesn't start with the whole truth.
here's the rest of what they didn't mention.... first, the SS rear is different from the 'regular' Camaro rear, second, the differential was developed from GM's experience with the GTO (Holden), and it is functionally the same as the G8 GT - granted it isn't the mack-daddy ZL1 (love their admission that the ZL1 could be better than theirs).
Most especially the limited slip. One huge problem with the C3 rear differential is the use of the drive shaft as its upper control arm. The clutches rely on spring pressure to put just enough friction on the side gears to make them limited slip... then the Corvette goes around a corner and the inner tire is dragging the clutches apart (those who don't believe cast iron flexes, it does).
The SS differential is functionally the same design, but since it's not trying to keep the tires upright on corners, it can do what it needs to do under all circumstance. That said, the plan always has been for a trutrac. I had one in my GTO, and it really was the only good thing about that car. The biggest hesitation continues to be whether or not the 3.27 gearing is correct for the motor. I like my 4 speed and I'm using brute power and a wide torque curve to mask that I'm "deficient" in the gear selection department... with that said, I need it to hustle off the line - and the cam I selected gives up some torque for hp.... and the other side of that is this transmission has the lower (numerically) first gear but there's even a deeper one that comes from similar vintage Camaros.
also, the tl;dr is I may need to put a friction modifier in... redline claims no, but it wouldn't be the first time that kind of advice wasn't exactly right.... also, I've found limited slips need a few miles on them to start working right - this rear hasn't been powered in at minimum 3 years and perhaps even much longer.... it came out of a 30k car, so it's possible that it could have been sitting since 2012.... we'll see, but the biggest questions - vibration and burnout have been answered.... now to figure out what the starter's problem is....
