SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
minus a window switch, I'm ready for autox on Sunday
Plastic Fantastic 2
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
2 hours of set up later
Add some shims to the front, top
-2.25 degrees camber is too much
-1.65 is a good 'next' point. with a cross camber of less then -0.01
My first alignment was 1.0 and it understeered
I also set the toe to 1* front 2* rear and the rear camber is the -0.9
caster is whatever I can get - 5 degrees or maybe a touch more
I'll see how that does on Sunday on the season opener autoX
Add some shims to the front, top
-2.25 degrees camber is too much
-1.65 is a good 'next' point. with a cross camber of less then -0.01
My first alignment was 1.0 and it understeered
I also set the toe to 1* front 2* rear and the rear camber is the -0.9
caster is whatever I can get - 5 degrees or maybe a touch more
I'll see how that does on Sunday on the season opener autoX
phantomjock
Well-known member
Nice trick from Mark Saveske; Once you figure out the number of shims you need for AX vs street. Tie the AX shims to the cross member - That way you can drive to the course, and do the setup there. No big deal if you are going to put on a trailer though.
Another thought, if you can and the space (and admin) allows, at the AX location - see if you can set up a Turning Circle. Take a big piece of chalk or spray paint (the marker kind) and a 100 foot tape. Could make everybody better knowing their understeer/oversteer. Better still, if you have some data analysis you can extrapolate g-load too. Or, if you want to keep it a secret, use the high school parking lot. Mind the coppers!
Cheers - Jim
Another thought, if you can and the space (and admin) allows, at the AX location - see if you can set up a Turning Circle. Take a big piece of chalk or spray paint (the marker kind) and a 100 foot tape. Could make everybody better knowing their understeer/oversteer. Better still, if you have some data analysis you can extrapolate g-load too. Or, if you want to keep it a secret, use the high school parking lot. Mind the coppers!
Cheers - Jim
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
what a day.... no racing, but got a track home.... everyone has wanted gold for their crap, then this unplated crap came up... 454, 94, 25'
phantomjock
Well-known member
Perfect. Good score with the 454 @94 - few electrical bugs - until you add your own. And I bet it has "kennel" space onboard too.
We are "sleuthing" for a 20-ish (under) with 5k towing. Looks like it will be an MB Sprinter-based chassis - only first the boat sells.
Gotta move my gold-plated crap first!
Cheers - Jim
We are "sleuthing" for a 20-ish (under) with 5k towing. Looks like it will be an MB Sprinter-based chassis - only first the boat sells.
Gotta move my gold-plated crap first!
Cheers - Jim
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
the hardest part was finding one with sufficient towing capacity. I guess most people don't tow race cars and trailers... who knew?
phantomjock
Well-known member
MB Sprinter 4x4 + Dualies + Twin Turbo? I'm dreamin'!
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I truly think they're capable.... they're hugely popular in the overland community - and for good reason, they're tough, get good economy, and last forever.... but I've yet to see them popular in any situation where they tow - and don't read much in there, never seen doesn't mean not a great idea.... just never seen it.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
oh good grief...
so I missed the last Autox to take advantage of an okay deal on an RV (for racing purposes). I get another notice from the Autox sponsors that another is coming up... the 19th.... I think "oof, that's about when our next chance of major snow" then "and on the 20th I go race the big track" Weather isn't certain but so far, I haven't been wrong in my long term forecasts....
so I missed the last Autox to take advantage of an okay deal on an RV (for racing purposes). I get another notice from the Autox sponsors that another is coming up... the 19th.... I think "oof, that's about when our next chance of major snow" then "and on the 20th I go race the big track" Weather isn't certain but so far, I haven't been wrong in my long term forecasts....
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Time to make the die for the gas tank
center the top punch (aka top die) on the bottom die
weld on both sides
build tank
simple, no?
center the top punch (aka top die) on the bottom die
weld on both sides
build tank
simple, no?
bobs77vet
Well-known member
I like it. are you going to TIG weld it up? does it get a fuel cell so there is no baffles? and do the ends have 90* flanges or will they be flat end caps?
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
bobs77vet
Well-known member
the hydramat just sits on the bottom of the tank? does it get held down by the baffles?
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
usually with magnets .... obviously not this time....
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
you know the day is going to go bell up when you're using a razor blade to clean PVC off stainless. Basically it adds hours of refinishing because no matter how good you are, you'll scratch it..... and before someone pipes up 'ceramic - that scratches it too.... just doesn't last as long
time to assemble the internal stuff - Hydramat
I'm using a lot of parts I've had around... like the hydramat from the first fuel system
time to decide whether to lap or butt weld it...
tune in Sunday for the exciting answer
time to assemble the internal stuff - Hydramat
I'm using a lot of parts I've had around... like the hydramat from the first fuel system
time to decide whether to lap or butt weld it...
tune in Sunday for the exciting answer
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Tanks for the memories?
with my gear, precision rolls are not a likely result...
what stopped me tonight is I need more clamps.... seriously
drove it yesterday, this is too restrictive so went back to the old air filter
with my gear, precision rolls are not a likely result...
what stopped me tonight is I need more clamps.... seriously
drove it yesterday, this is too restrictive so went back to the old air filter
bobs77vet
Well-known member
lap joints are so forgiving.....especially for porous situations they have to help
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
onward
I think I ended up using every C-clamp I have
I also made an adjustable right angle to hold it square. If you're doing this, don't lure yourself into just welding it then pipe clamping it square.
weld a bit, let cool, dolly, repeat
once the outside is welded, I run a hot bead down the inside with an aluminum bar against the outside - it sucks the weld 'flat' with the top... less grinding to make pretty
woohoo, I made a tube
crack check, then baffles, sump, fill neck and finally end caps
and yes, this is part of the defuser that is coming soon... and only published here
I think I ended up using every C-clamp I have
I also made an adjustable right angle to hold it square. If you're doing this, don't lure yourself into just welding it then pipe clamping it square.
weld a bit, let cool, dolly, repeat
once the outside is welded, I run a hot bead down the inside with an aluminum bar against the outside - it sucks the weld 'flat' with the top... less grinding to make pretty
woohoo, I made a tube
crack check, then baffles, sump, fill neck and finally end caps
and yes, this is part of the defuser that is coming soon... and only published here
phantomjock
Well-known member
Well thought out - and skilled too!
Multi-purpose + weight minimization. Cool.
Cheers - Jim
Multi-purpose + weight minimization. Cool.
Cheers - Jim
