Rear Brakes and Suspension.....Done!

I guess I missed something, but I have a question.

Have you designed this wheel suspension system yourself or bought a finished one?

I want to do this on my corvette

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I designed and built myself. The plates were Laser cut and I believe I have the files for them. The half shaft axles are from a Dodge Viper. If you would like to do this, let me know.
 
Lets do it on the forum. We do have a download section to post files so that will work.
 
1. Is there a photo of attaching the upper link to the lever with the wheel?

2. Part "3" differs from the crossbar "Corvette" ?

3. Part "1" attached to the gearbox "4" or to the beam "2"?
Or gearbox and beam?

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vettua said:
1. Is there a photo of attaching the upper link to the lever with the wheel?

2. Part "3" differs from the crossbar "Corvette" ?

3. Part "1" attached to the gearbox "4" or to the beam "2"?
Or gearbox and beam?

41355de525026fff0.jpg
Click to expand...



2. Part "3" differs from the crossbar "Corvette" ? Yes, part "3" is different than a Corvette crossbar.

3. Part "1" attached to the gearbox "4" or to the beam "2"? Or gearbox and beam? Part "1" attaches to the beam "2" through the bolts on both sides of the number 1

1. Is there a photo of attaching the upper link to the lever with the wheel? I may have some better pictures but these show the upper link bracket that was added to the trailing arm

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Thanks so much for the explanation! :friends:

Why not use the trailing arm from the Corvette?
What is the problem ?
why make another?
 
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The stock Corvette trailing arms are not very easy to modify and there is not much space to add the upper rod. My trailing arms were made from aftermarket trailing arms that were modified with a spherical joint, 20mm added offset and the upper rod end mount.
 
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BBShark said:
The stock Corvette trailing arms are not very easy to modify and there is not much space to add the upper rod. My trailing arms were made from aftermarket trailing arms that were modified with a spherical joint, 20mm added offset and the upper rod end mount.
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BBShark,

Do you have a part number for the front spherical bearing and details how you locked it down?

Thanks
 
The spherical bearing is a Johnny Joint with the outside shell welded into the trailing arm. That sleeve has C clips that retain bearing cups on both sides. I don't think these Johnny Joints are available anymore.
 
I have similar looking offset trailing arms like BBShark and want to retrofit in the Johnny Joints like he did. Currie Enterprises is the manufacturer of these if I'm not mistaken and should be able to answer any detailed questions on their use. It's on my to-do list for next year.
 
BBShark said:
The spherical bearing is a Johnny Joint with the outside shell welded into the trailing arm. That sleeve has C clips that retain bearing cups on both sides. I don't think these Johnny Joints are available anymore.
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Nice, first time I’ve seen someone weld them on aftermarket a arms.
 
Van Steel does, I basically want to make mine in the same fashion. Johnny Joints didn't exist yet, or at least I wasn't aware of them at the time I bought my trailing arms 20+ years ago. With the arc of travel the arms make, it makes more sense to have a spherical joint in that location. The original rubber bushings let you get by with it, urethane isn't as forgiving.
 
Van Steel makes an upper link kit. It used to be the Dragvette setup. The only issue I see with that is the axle is still a suspension link and your options for controlling camber are limited (without binding). To sort of fix this you could take the retainers off the side yokes and allow them to float in and out. The problem there is that the side yoke seals are lip seals and they are not made for reciprocating motion.
 
Karsten addressed that on his by having telescoping halfshafts built if I'm not mistaken. Modern cars get around that with CV joint style shafts that are able to move in and out of one of the drive cups. With U-Joints, the only way seems to be telescoping shafts. I agree that letting the side yokes slide in and out would only cause trouble in a hurry.
 
Red77 said:
Karsten addressed that on his by having telescoping halfshafts built if I'm not mistaken. Modern cars get around that with CV joint style shafts that are able to move in and out of one of the drive cups. With U-Joints, the only way seems to be telescoping shafts. I agree that letting the side yokes slide in and out would only cause trouble in a hurry.
Click to expand...

That's what I did:

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