SBG's C3

I've decided that to fix the problem with the oil leak, and the scratch on the bumper/right rear panel that I must do the following minor updates:

Install custom images flares and rear cover
move the rear wheels/tires to the front and install 18x11 torque thrusts on the back with 335/40 tires
remove the leaky 350 and replace with an aluminum head 427
change the seats to A4 seats
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
I've decided that to fix the problem with the oil leak, and the scratch on the bumper/right rear panel that I must do the following minor updates:

Install custom images flares and rear cover
move the rear wheels/tires to the front and install 18x11 torque thrusts on the back with 335/40 tires
remove the leaky 350 and replace with an aluminum head 427
change the seats to A4 seats
Click to expand...

No less.:amazed:
 
I have never welded with "stainless" before what is the advantage to using it over the mild steel wire on a ferrous block?
 
bobs77vet said:
I have never welded with "stainless" before what is the advantage to using it over the mild steel wire on a ferrous block?
Click to expand...

if you weld with nickel-less steel, the weld metal cools faster than the cast iron and that causes cracks. By using nickle - whether it be cast-iron arc rod, adding nickel via rod, or using wire with nickel in it - it reduces the cracking.

And here's how. Iron cools slower than steel. Nickel faster than cast iron, but slower than steel. Steel melts at roughly 2400 degrees, Nickel at 2000 degrees, and cast iron at 1600 degrees (I refuse to look up the relative temps, but it's something like that). By heating the metal to 400 degrees, and welding with nickel rod - you reduce the cracking because when it cools, it doesn't contract enough to create as much cracking.

The right way to weld this would be put the block in an oven, heat it to 900 degrees, and weld with 10% nickel rod. Once you've welded it, you should bury the block in sand and let it cool slowly

Of course, how careful you need to be is inversely proportional to the stresses the part will see when it's done. This one, the piece just needs to stay in place to keep the bolt in place, but it's only 1/3 of the radius, so it's not really getting huge stresses.
 
I've used Inconel stick with good success, preheat to 400, keep it on temperature with a torch, peen between passes, cool down slowly...... While I had success I still hate welding cast iron.....
 
MYBAD79 said:
I've used Inconel stick with good success, preheat to 400, keep it on temperature with a torch, peen between passes, cool down slowly...... While I had success I still hate welding cast iron.....
Click to expand...

I hope I never suggested that I like welding cast iron, though for me, it's equal hatred between cast and aluminum...

So I ordered a fiberglass front and rear bumper, 4" flares for the back, 2" flares for the front from Custom Images

They even knocked 10% off for ordering it all from them.... nice guys :thumbs:
 
So I drove it yesterday to try to get a handle on the leak.... it's coming from the front seal. For the life of me I can't figure out how I managed to make that leak when it didn't leak before I swapped the pan gasket

PC010001_zps6a0115c0.jpg

nevermind the silicone - that was my attempt to keep it from leaking before the track day (and also that I'm solving that issue with the 427 I'm building).
 
dammit
and note the antifreeze on there - meaning I probably injured the water pump as well
PC030007_zps9843304c.jpg

but at least it's now off
PC030008_zpsb1d90a6d.jpg

and I think I found the oil leak.... on the opposite side, you can see where the seal rode on the balancer.... there's no such witness mark on this side
PC030009_zpsfe5656fe.jpg

and the new balancer
PC030011_zpsac010228.jpg

I hate to do it, but I'm going to pull the pan again and replace the oil pan seal.... I'm not completely convinced that the only leak is that front seal....
 
Remember old Pontiac engines?? had such a much simpler pan/seal design, pop that chain cover on/off in a nanosecond....WHY the bottom/pan area on a SBC is such a damn mess, I dunno, it's as if two completely separate design teams in the company and they could not share concepts....:(:crutches:

AND it doesn't even involve that stupid Pontiac timing chain/water pump/plates/etc design, but the best of both worlds...WTF?????
 
i dont know if theres any aplication in the vette world but those MG guys use "speedi sleeves" to fix leaks like this all the time
 
Yes, I believe they sell sleeves for the balancer.... Wait, you're saying the witness marks re only on one side? One half of the circumference??

I've had good success using the 1pc Felpo pan gasket.......m
 
MYBAD79 said:
Yes, I believe they sell sleeves for the balancer.... Wait, you're saying the witness marks re only on one side? One half of the circumference??

I've had good success using the 1pc Felpo pan gasket.......m
Click to expand...

correct, witness only on one side 1/2 the circumference - and no, the snout isn't bent.
I could have sleeve it - or used the balancer that was on the shelf

it is a one piece gasket and I actually have two more in stock
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
correct, witness only on one side 1/2 the circumference - and no, the snout isn't bent.
I could have sleeve it - or used the balancer that was on the shelf

it is a one piece gasket and I actually have two more in stock
Click to expand...

Ha, you anticipated my next question ..... :)

Are the witness marks opposite (180 out) from the balance holes that are drilled into the balancer ?? I'm wondering if imbalance is causing the balancer to "wobble" ???
 
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