SBG's C3

it's all good, it's a hobby - always has been

fortunately, the Corvette is done enough that I can get back to the Fiat and start on the 50 Buick... in fact, I may have to call a time out tomorrow and go get a piece for that one.
 
While I wait for not-so-FAST to get my computer back (they said they'll test it on their dyno by Wednesday night - then they'll let me know what they're going to do).... I figured I might as well fix a bit of the paint issue

reminder photo of the problem

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and the other momentos
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so the front, simply feathering in paint over the blemishes will be fine for now (I'm going to replace this piece with a fiberglass one)
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but the back, requires stripping
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I finally said the heck with it, and got my sanding drums out from my days of building stainless sinks.... much better for stripping these
 
FAST said no problem with the computer... they were right - the tach wire had a cut in it.... d'oh. FAST was supposed to call back about a second problem - that the fans stay on with the handheld connected and the ignition switch off.... apparently, they've decided not to.... sigh

Anyway, so I've done a bit more
the problem
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while I'm at it, I'll fix a whoops I did putting the car in the shop (about a day after I painted it)
there is: black, red, red, maroon, primer, maroon, primer, black, red, yellow primer, and my top coat of paint on the bumper.... I stripped it (I know, anyone else would have just painted over it)
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screw razor blades
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I used to build stainless kitchen equipment - read, raw finish.... I think I can handle this (and saved me boatloads of time)
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I'm replacing the nose eventually, so I just don't care enough to strip the paint
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close, need to fix one more thing on the left side of the license plate and I can paint
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looking good i like the idea of the visegrips with the razor blade i dont think i would have thought of that one, but those sanding tubes definitely did the trick though
 
so the clutch is slipping.... it's really a good thing....

I had the flywheel resurfaced before I put the second clutch back into the car.... and it's overheated again - but why? I've put in hundreds of clutches and never had the trouble I've had with this one.... it appears that this clutch was not fully engaging - that the disk wasn't flat against the flywheel - keep in mind, this clutch went several thousand miles in my 455 Buick - so I know it worked, and worked well.

There are cracks at the bolt holes.... this is a steel flywheel, we never checked it for cracks because it looked fine.... yeah, I know, another amazing story
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look at how this is worn, it's not even traveled 200 miles in this car
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you can even see where we machined it
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while I was inspecting underneath - I noticed the rear sway bar had broke off.... and bent this -....
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these are not-cheap upgraded trailing arms from Van Steel. I have no idea why they didn't box this like the factory - you can imagine that it will be before this car hits the ground again...

so yes, God was watching over me.

now to redesign the rear sway bar..... again
 
good thing you saw the broken sway bar, that spring attachment point on the trailing arm should be boxed... just like you said..... this could have been very ugly......

on the clutch: no clue...... am I seeing it correctly that the pressure plate looks fine but the flywheel has a few blue spots??
 
There are days that happen which make me think that American made stuff is no better than Chinese shit

This was the gauge on the EZ Efi system. It broke from the inside out
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yep was leaking fuel right onto my header... yep, God was watching over me again. I got to a car show about 1 hour away, and a guy was admiring my car - then said "do you know your fuel pressure regulator is leaking?" "uh, no, I didn't".... fortunately NAPA was open so 1 - 1/8" plug and I was back to putting fumes out of the exhaust only.... can't wait to hear what EZ has to say.... frightening.

okay, so there is a humorous part. (more so for me) - I walk and get the pipe plug ~ 4 blocks through the middle of the car show/wall to wall people. So it takes me some time (I may have chatted a bit).... I get back, fix my car and walk over to XXX to get a rootbeer float (these things are amazing).... and a guy is looking at the puddle under his 69 Corvette, BBC, convertible.... nice, transmission-looking-fluid puddle. He blew the line on the PS pump. Had to fix it or he'd not have a water pump..... I apologize to him for creating the Corvette-dying-blackhole... and he comments that he wishes it had happened a bit sooner because it'd have spun the car and totaled it.... he said it was well insured. I admitted to him I had exactly the same thought when I looked at the leak on my car.... and just yesterday I was telling someone that if my car burned to the ground, I'd rebody it with a C2 split window shell.... alas, I'm still stuck with my 75 :mullet:
 
Haven't been working on this much, however, I did get a bit done

I got the replacement gauge from EZ EFI.... I don't trust it - I put an American (allegedly because I found a label inside that said made in Taiwan... probably the label was made in taiwan, but who knows)

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so I finally got around to messing with this. I disconnected the vacuum line from the carb base - then hard wired this in....
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and it does operate the lights. So now I'll have to get serious about wiring it. The 75 has a vacuum tank/bumper in front of the radiator; so I figure put another fitting on the tank - then connect this to it. Put a one-way valve on the carb base - and I'll be in bidness :) probably won't solve the brake booster issue; but being able to raise and lower my lights without the engine running will be pretty cool IMO

and I finally put this on - the car gets a tad warm, so this should cool it down. I also found that the radiator hose is just high enough to air lock - so I'll put a valve on the upper tube..
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so basically a little of nothing for projects tonight - but at least it's a bit more done :)
 
I've had a progressive worse and worse vacuum leak that just didn't make sense.... until I pulled the intake off

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anyway, I have an air-gap in the wings, ready to put on - so I'm swapping and using good gaskets... hope this fixes the issues
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but for a carb base gasket, I'd be done
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this car runs sooooo much better! it fixed all its problems (woohoo)...

so to recap, replacing the POS GM intake with a Chinese intake is a good thing :3rd:
 
U mean replacing leaky gaskets is a GOOD thing, the rest, well, maybe.....


:mullet::clobbered::tomato:
 
U mean replacing leaky gaskets is a GOOD thing, the rest, well, maybe.....


:mullet::clobbered::tomato:

I should take a picture of the rocket science that GM came up with for where the egr gasses entered the intake. - the egr gasses come in under the intake manifold and point up at the carb base. Last time I checked, we wanted stuff to flow towards the pistons.... not get hung up with exhaust gasses blowing up at the carb.... what makes me the most irritated is I didn't notice that until after I pulled the intake - had I seen it before, I'd have plugged those holes.... but no matter, it was filled with oil, fuel and what appeared to be water...
 
U mean replacing leaky gaskets is a GOOD thing, the rest, well, maybe.....


:mullet::clobbered::tomato:

I should take a picture of the rocket science that GM came up with for where the egr gasses entered the intake. - the egr gasses come in under the intake manifold and point up at the carb base. Last time I checked, we wanted stuff to flow towards the pistons.... not get hung up with exhaust gasses blowing up at the carb.... what makes me the most irritated is I didn't notice that until after I pulled the intake - had I seen it before, I'd have plugged those holes.... but no matter, it was filled with oil, fuel and what appeared to be water...

I"m famous for blocking the heat riser crossover with plaster of Paris, to block carb overheating, well needed even in Maryland, and certainly needed here in FLORIDA....even the highly modified LT1 induction on my vette, has the EGR stuff filled with Plaster....course it's all cut off to fit the HEI ignition in stock location....thanks to a TIG welding buddy....:bump::bounce: one of the first things I do is disable EGR, if possible....

:goodevil:
 
U mean replacing leaky gaskets is a GOOD thing, the rest, well, maybe.....


:mullet::clobbered::tomato:

I should take a picture of the rocket science that GM came up with for where the egr gasses entered the intake. - the egr gasses come in under the intake manifold and point up at the carb base. Last time I checked, we wanted stuff to flow towards the pistons.... not get hung up with exhaust gasses blowing up at the carb.... what makes me the most irritated is I didn't notice that until after I pulled the intake - had I seen it before, I'd have plugged those holes.... but no matter, it was filled with oil, fuel and what appeared to be water...

I"m famous for blocking the heat riser crossover with plaster of Paris, to block carb overheating, well needed even in Maryland, and certainly needed here in FLORIDA....even the highly modified LT1 induction on my vette, has the EGR stuff filled with Plaster....course it's all cut off to fit the HEI ignition in stock location....thanks to a TIG welding buddy....:bump::bounce: one of the first things I do is disable EGR, if possible....

:goodevil:

for the price of a buddy with a TIG, I can buy a chinese manifold that doesn't have the issue :pprrtt:





.... did I mention I have everything needed to TIG weld that? :) The rub is this - I can sell that manifold to some poor schmuck in California that needs the smog crap for far more than I paid for the new manifold.
 
I don't know what the deal is, but I've had 3 wilwood remote cylinders on this Corvette leak... they all leak between the container and the adapter - and I've used 3 different containers and adapters... anyway, enough is enough
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the solution

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decisions, decisions.
the transmission is back out
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problem 1
the pressure plate is riding too close to the inside edge
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problem 2
why did they chamfer this hole? how do you get an accurate measurement for the depth? at this point, I think the throwout is 1/4" too close to the pressure plate (about the same dimension as the chamfer

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problem 3 it's leaking - which could be the cause total of the problem with slippage

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Interestingly, neither Speedway nor McLeod list this bearing for the Super T-10 anymore.... and the one they do list now is $317.00 and will not be shipped until the day after the track day (11/1

square instead of chamfer
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so what to do.... I might be able to switch to manual actuation if I pay huge bucks for next-day air for the parts... it also means I have to pull the entire dash out to replace the pin on the clutch pedal (had to remove it for the hydraulic system, naturally).....

I'm at a loss.... I think I have enough parts here to put the transmission back in the car with the clutch arm, pivot, and non-hydraulic throwout.... presuming the clutch pad isn't toast because of hydraulic fluid....

of perhaps buy a hydraulic slave cylinder that mounts to the outside of the bellhousing. I have a bellhousing would work, but I'd lose the scattershield (not optimal, but a possibility)....
 
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did your new remote reservoir stop the leaking problem? if not maybe one of those multiple barbed nipples may help.
 

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