Stuck on start

[010752]

Did you do this test?
It will tell you which is the problem.

I dropped the starter and looked it over real good. Ran it quite a few times on my battery charger. Everything appeared nornal.
The only thing that MAY have been out of spec was the 1 way clutch on the drive gear. I remember that the clutch pressure was fairly stiff even when new, but it did seem to lighten up as I exercized it today. It appears to be a sealed unit, and therefore not adjustable or greaseable.
Anyway, I slapped it back together and it seems like the problem is solved.
But, things like this make me nervous, as I don't really know if I fixed it.

Anyone know anything about the 1 way drive unit on the starter gear?
Could this be the problem, and is it likely to bind up again?

Think I'll run for a while without tightening the bolt on the battery cable clamp, as removing the batt cable was the only way I could get the starter to stop.

Sounds like your talking about the "starter drive" (aka bendix).
If it is failing, you will hear it click when the key is turned and a whirring sound without the engine turning.
Must be replaced.

Other possibility is it is bound due to dried up grease and dirt and/or a worn bushing in the nose.
You can clean and lube the shaft and end bearing. Don't get solvents or lube into the sealed clutch. Easiest is to take the solenoid off and manually exercise the drive by hand. Good time to clean any gunk from the solenoid assembly and clean the contacts too.

To test for a sticking ignition switch,
just use and test lite etc on the disconnected start wire (purple) at the starter and and when your helper releases the key, see if the lite goes out.
That should cover all the possibilities.

Starter parts are not hot sellers any longer and not available everywhere as they used to be.
If you want to fuss with it, you can get parts from a local starter rebuilder or a place like this.
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/starterdrives.html

 

[JIML82]

I know that it is a bit late to be asking this question but I don't seem to find the information in all of the previous threads. Do you have a T&T or a standard (non-adjustable) steering column? They operate on the same principals but they are slightly different from each other.
Standard Column


T&T Column

Make sure that you are pushing into the correct slot. My skilled trades buddy who used to build prototypes of these columns caught himself trying to remove the lock cylinder by pressing into the wrong slot! So if he can make a mistake like that, you very well might be doing the same thing.

The lock cylinder should easily come right out with the tab depressed.

I do not think that the turn signal switch housing can be removed from the bearing housing unless the lock cylinder is first removed.

Jim

 

[Beagle 1]

Did you do this test?

No, I didn't. Kind of embarassing that I didn't think of it.
Thanks for the help.

 

[Beagle 1]

I know that it is a bit late to be asking this question but I don't seem to find the information in all of the previous threads. Do you have a T&T or a standard (non-adjustable) steering column?

I do not think that the turn signal switch housing can be removed from the bearing housing unless the lock cylinder is first removed.

Jim

Yes, standard column. I can depress the plunger, but the lock clyliner only move about 1/10"
Thanks for the help

 

[Beagle 1]

I removed the wires from the starter as posted above. The control circuit seemed to be working correctly, so I changed the starter today.

Seems to be fixed.

I'm still amazed that the starter itself could cause the electric motor to keep running even when the key is turned off. I guess the main contact or linkage was sticking.

Thanks everyone for their thoughts.