2000 ford windstar more trouble

when I have a timing light hooked up it seems to pulse normally when it isn't missing. However when the missing starts all plug wires cause the the timing light to be constantly lit and pulsating. Just kind of hard to describe, I'm wondering if this is the cause of my plug wires glowing even though they are new.

Being this miss seems to be a timed event I am very curious if the pcm developed a fault and needs to be reprogrammed. Ford seems to have various updated software service bulletins that have reference to misses detected.
 
I dunno, but I do know one thing....my win7 Dell here has a problem in that if I move the mouse with my sleeve while typing the screen will go to desktop....

sometimes leave a outline of the posting window on the screen....

so if it can do THAT, I wooden put it past anything....

I continue to listen now, as I wanna know bad as you do....

Olde tyme ET here used to trouble shooting electrickery for a long time now....

love to look under that hood, .....but that ain't happening.....:shocking::shocking:
 
Q. I own a 1997 Ford Windstar van. It has an automatic transmission, a 3.8 liter 200 horsepower engine. It has fuel injection, ABS brakes and about 155,000 kilometers on it.


About one and a half years ago (approx. 120,000 kms.), the service engine light started coming on in the van. It would stay on for a few days, and then go off. It would come on again and again and go off. Sometimes there would be weeks between cycles.

At first I did not notice any performance change in the van. But after this happening several times I did start to notice a slight shaking and engine roughness at about 60 to 80 kms/per/hr. Kinda reminded me of my cars from the 70's when a wire was wet or I had a bad spark plug. I took it in to my mechanic. A guy I've known for years and who has done work on my vehicles for years. He is also an ex ford dealership (15 years) mechanic.

When he checked the van with his computer diagnostic unit, it reported a cylinder misfire. After taking a good look he decided the spark plugs were not so good and changed them. The next day the service engine light came back on, as did the slight engine roughness. I called my mechanic. He was mystified. He said he had heard of a problem with the service engine light on some Ford vehicles. They were very sensitive and could come on when they really shouldn't.

Upon contacting Ford, that was indeed the case. There was no recall on it, but for a one-hour labor charge, a Ford dealership could reprogram the computer and make this light less sensitive. I decided to live with it (ha!). A few months later, the service engine light started to flash for approx. one minute when it came on, and would then go solid. The engine roughness was getting worse. (In the Ford manual it said the light would flash if it was a fairly serious engine miss).

This was all still happening between 60 and 80 kms. /per/hr, the van has always started. I have never smelled anything unusual around the van and have never witnessed any white or black smoke coming from my muffler. So back to the shop! My mechanic. continued to get a cylinder miss code.

He checked several things (sorry, no list). He decided to change the wires. (Yikes! $90 just for the wires.) I myself thought this might be it, so ok'ed it. We went for a test drive. Seemed ok at first. But when we pulled back into the garage, I could feel a slight shake and on came the light. You guessed it. He got his usual cylinder miss code. So he thought maybe the sensitive light was the culprit that time and to see him again if the problem persisted. He said the only other thing he could think of was possibly a bad fuel injector.

Well, I still have the problem, but because I have over $300.00 invested in an ongoing problem I can't bring myself to go back yet. It's been about two months since my last visit. The service light is now on all the time and when the van shakes and the engine runs really rough, the light flashes (about 8 times a day, minimum.)

I've tried premium gas and fuel injector cleaner, but they do not help. The engine oil and transmission fluid look fine. It's really starting to drive me crazy! Your input would be greatly appreciated. Have you heard from any other people with similar problems? Do you think a Certified Ford Dealership would be better suited to tackle this problem?

Thank You,
Dan

A. It seems like your mechanic has done just about everything he can do, short of reprogramming the PCM. About the only thing I can suggest is going to involve a bit of disassembly and inspection. And if the problem is apparent, a bit of money to repair.

You didn't mention what the DTCs were but if any of the DTCs were P0300 through P0306, the problem may be EGR related. Ford issued a TSB 12/21/98 number 98-25-5 pertaining to all 1996, 1997 and 1998 3.8 liter Ford Windstars.

First be sure all of the prerequisite tests have been performed. From the bulletin:

1. Reprogram the PCM with the latest calibration.

2. The following text highlights the most commonly found items which could result in MIL illumination. These items should be checked if prior PCM reprogramming did not resolve the concern:
* Verify that a misfire is occurring. It is possible that certain engine conditions may have to be duplicated for the misfire to be evident. Drive vehicle under different speeds, loads, and engine temperatures. Use the Freeze Frame data to get an idea of when the misfire occurred.
* Perform Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS) Power Balance Test. Try to duplicate the misfire based on the captured Freeze Frame data. Duplicate Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), rpm, and load. Run a power balance at an rpm similar to when misfire occurred. Try to duplicate the misfire by changing engine loads, accelerating, decelerating, and cruising.
* Perform SBDS Spark Duration Test. All boxes should be about the same size. Millisecond duration should not be too high or too low. Check for fuel or coolant fouled, cracked, or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. Swap spark plug to another cylinder to see if miss will follow. Check the resistance of the spark plug wires. Check the resistance of the secondary coil windings, especially it companion cylinders show a concern.
* Perform Injector Flow Test. All injectors should flow within 5% of each other. Swap injector to another cylinder to determine if miss will follow. Replace faulty injectors. Do an Injector Leakdown Test for at least 30 minutes. Residual fuel pressure should not drop more than 17 kPa (2.5 psi).
* Perform Relative Compression Test after duplicating the miss; immediately shut down the engine and perform this test. Verify compression with a manual gauge and perform Cylinder Leakage Test to determine location of concern.
* Check for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold. Check plenum gasket as it may be rolled. Plug evaporator line to Vapor Management Valve (VMV) from the intake manifold. Try to duplicate the miss. Check for a mechanically stuck open VMV. Disconnect the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Try to duplicate the miss.

3. If all procedures have been completed, and the misfire concern has not been resolved, the following Steps 3a-3c are to be completed.

a. Remove the upper intake manifold and check the EGR orifices that are pressed into each primary port of the lower intake manifold. If any EGR orifice is missing, replace the lower intake manifold with a new Lower Intake Manifold. If any of the orifices are plugged with soot, clean and unplug them with a pick and solvent. Refer to the appropriate Windstar Service/Workshop Manual for servicing the upper and lower intake manifolds.

NOTE: BE SURE TO ORDER NEW INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL (IMRC) BUSHINGS (FSRZ-9F955-AB) AS THEY WILL BREAK UPON REMOVAL.

b. Run two (2) cans of Carburetor Tune Up Cleaner (D9AZ-19579-BA, or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M14P9-A), through the engine following contents instructions carefully.

c. Change engine oil and engine oil filter before retesting for misfire.

I would definitely get the PCM reprogrammed to be sure the programming is uncorrupted and up to date. Then have your mechanic take a look at this and he can take it from there.

I would appreciate you letting me know how you make out.

Additional Information provided courtesy of ALLDATA
 
seems just like my issues, so perhaps the pcm programming is really the culprit being they mention a spark duration test and my obvious issue with my plug wires glowing.

I know my egr orifices are fine and my intake runner control system is working, I would have thought something would have made a difference but the problem always persists ... Im going to do the gaskets and other small stuff and if it still won't run right it's going to ford for pcm calibration. Sick and tired of working on this van.
 
seems just like my issues, so perhaps the pcm programming is really the culprit being they mention a spark duration test and my obvious issue with my plug wires glowing.

I know my egr orifices are fine and my intake runner control system is working, I would have thought something would have made a difference but the problem always persists ... Im going to do the gaskets and other small stuff and if it still won't run right it's going to ford for pcm calibration. Sick and tired of working on this van.

IF that actually fixes it, I would kill to know WTF happened to the OEM PCM cal that it takes this operation to cure it.....??

engine age? shouldn't be all THAT sensitive....I smell a fish....or at least week old crab scraps in the bag.....

:tth::devil::shocking:
 
I googled "windstar 2000 pcm" and immediately found a few websites with complaints about the PCM and the need to re-program..... they seem to have quiet a few issues with the PCM....

Auto Zone sells the "engine control computer" - high core charge .... but they are great about returns, I'd give it a try and return it if it doesn't solve the problem :D

Can you get to it and swap it at the "zone" ??
 
Q. I own a 1997 Ford Windstar van. It has an automatic transmission, a 3.8 liter 200 horsepower engine. It has fuel injection, ABS brakes and about 155,000 kilometers on it.


About one and a half years ago (approx. 120,000 kms.), the service engine light started coming on in the van. It would stay on for a few days, and then go off. It would come on again and again and go off. Sometimes there would be weeks between cycles.

At first I did not notice any performance change in the van. But after this happening several times I did start to notice a slight shaking and engine roughness at about 60 to 80 kms/per/hr. Kinda reminded me of my cars from the 70's when a wire was wet or I had a bad spark plug. I took it in to my mechanic. A guy I've known for years and who has done work on my vehicles for years. He is also an ex ford dealership (15 years) mechanic.

When he checked the van with his computer diagnostic unit, it reported a cylinder misfire. After taking a good look he decided the spark plugs were not so good and changed them. The next day the service engine light came back on, as did the slight engine roughness. I called my mechanic. He was mystified. He said he had heard of a problem with the service engine light on some Ford vehicles. They were very sensitive and could come on when they really shouldn't.

Upon contacting Ford, that was indeed the case. There was no recall on it, but for a one-hour labor charge, a Ford dealership could reprogram the computer and make this light less sensitive. I decided to live with it (ha!). A few months later, the service engine light started to flash for approx. one minute when it came on, and would then go solid. The engine roughness was getting worse. (In the Ford manual it said the light would flash if it was a fairly serious engine miss).

This was all still happening between 60 and 80 kms. /per/hr, the van has always started. I have never smelled anything unusual around the van and have never witnessed any white or black smoke coming from my muffler. So back to the shop! My mechanic. continued to get a cylinder miss code.

He checked several things (sorry, no list). He decided to change the wires. (Yikes! $90 just for the wires.) I myself thought this might be it, so ok'ed it. We went for a test drive. Seemed ok at first. But when we pulled back into the garage, I could feel a slight shake and on came the light. You guessed it. He got his usual cylinder miss code. So he thought maybe the sensitive light was the culprit that time and to see him again if the problem persisted. He said the only other thing he could think of was possibly a bad fuel injector.

Well, I still have the problem, but because I have over $300.00 invested in an ongoing problem I can't bring myself to go back yet. It's been about two months since my last visit. The service light is now on all the time and when the van shakes and the engine runs really rough, the light flashes (about 8 times a day, minimum.)

I've tried premium gas and fuel injector cleaner, but they do not help. The engine oil and transmission fluid look fine. It's really starting to drive me crazy! Your input would be greatly appreciated. Have you heard from any other people with similar problems? Do you think a Certified Ford Dealership would be better suited to tackle this problem?

Thank You,
Dan

A. It seems like your mechanic has done just about everything he can do, short of reprogramming the PCM. About the only thing I can suggest is going to involve a bit of disassembly and inspection. And if the problem is apparent, a bit of money to repair.

You didn't mention what the DTCs were but if any of the DTCs were P0300 through P0306, the problem may be EGR related. Ford issued a TSB 12/21/98 number 98-25-5 pertaining to all 1996, 1997 and 1998 3.8 liter Ford Windstars.

First be sure all of the prerequisite tests have been performed. From the bulletin:

1. Reprogram the PCM with the latest calibration.

2. The following text highlights the most commonly found items which could result in MIL illumination. These items should be checked if prior PCM reprogramming did not resolve the concern:
* Verify that a misfire is occurring. It is possible that certain engine conditions may have to be duplicated for the misfire to be evident. Drive vehicle under different speeds, loads, and engine temperatures. Use the Freeze Frame data to get an idea of when the misfire occurred.
* Perform Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS) Power Balance Test. Try to duplicate the misfire based on the captured Freeze Frame data. Duplicate Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT), rpm, and load. Run a power balance at an rpm similar to when misfire occurred. Try to duplicate the misfire by changing engine loads, accelerating, decelerating, and cruising.
* Perform SBDS Spark Duration Test. All boxes should be about the same size. Millisecond duration should not be too high or too low. Check for fuel or coolant fouled, cracked, or incorrectly gapped spark plugs. Swap spark plug to another cylinder to see if miss will follow. Check the resistance of the spark plug wires. Check the resistance of the secondary coil windings, especially it companion cylinders show a concern.
* Perform Injector Flow Test. All injectors should flow within 5% of each other. Swap injector to another cylinder to determine if miss will follow. Replace faulty injectors. Do an Injector Leakdown Test for at least 30 minutes. Residual fuel pressure should not drop more than 17 kPa (2.5 psi).
* Perform Relative Compression Test after duplicating the miss; immediately shut down the engine and perform this test. Verify compression with a manual gauge and perform Cylinder Leakage Test to determine location of concern.
* Check for vacuum leaks around the intake manifold. Check plenum gasket as it may be rolled. Plug evaporator line to Vapor Management Valve (VMV) from the intake manifold. Try to duplicate the miss. Check for a mechanically stuck open VMV. Disconnect the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Try to duplicate the miss.

3. If all procedures have been completed, and the misfire concern has not been resolved, the following Steps 3a-3c are to be completed.

a. Remove the upper intake manifold and check the EGR orifices that are pressed into each primary port of the lower intake manifold. If any EGR orifice is missing, replace the lower intake manifold with a new Lower Intake Manifold. If any of the orifices are plugged with soot, clean and unplug them with a pick and solvent. Refer to the appropriate Windstar Service/Workshop Manual for servicing the upper and lower intake manifolds.

NOTE: BE SURE TO ORDER NEW INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER CONTROL (IMRC) BUSHINGS (FSRZ-9F955-AB) AS THEY WILL BREAK UPON REMOVAL.

b. Run two (2) cans of Carburetor Tune Up Cleaner (D9AZ-19579-BA, or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M14P9-A), through the engine following contents instructions carefully.

c. Change engine oil and engine oil filter before retesting for misfire.

I would definitely get the PCM reprogrammed to be sure the programming is uncorrupted and up to date. Then have your mechanic take a look at this and he can take it from there.

I would appreciate you letting me know how you make out.

Additional Information provided courtesy of ALLDATA

That is a HELL of a lot of work and still produces no results.

I understand changing the crank & cam sensors, but what about checking the magnet(s) that trigger the sensor(s)? My ex's Taurus had that problem, the crank trigger magnet fell off and it ran like shit. Same as Gene said - GIGO - Garbage in = garbage out.
 
Sometime back I lost my keys to the van and at that time ford said the pcm indicated low battery voltage and needed a battery. I told them that is impossible the van cranks over with ease everytime and it has been doing so since this misfire issue came about. When this misfire came about again the pcm showed low battery voltage yet never had cranking issues. I did change it however and that code has not returned unless my obd reader cant pull that code.

Remember I also mentioned at times this thing cranks over like a old days car with a distributor that is 180 out and other times it just has longer then normal cranking times till it starts.

to me even if lean conditions existed I don't see how they would affect the pcm during cranking. Does it sound more like a PCM related timing issues?
 
To my understanding, the crank sensor establishes a baseline for the data going into the computer. It tells the computer the position of the crank. If this signal is erratic or simply wrong the computer will not know whether the crank is at TDC or out 180*.

If this were my car I would have bitten the bullet by now and had it serviced by the dealer.:rain:
 
That is a HELL of a lot of work and still produces no results.

I understand changing the crank & cam sensors, but what about checking the magnet(s) that trigger the sensor(s)? My ex's Taurus had that problem, the crank trigger magnet fell off and it ran like shit. Same as Gene said - GIGO - Garbage in = garbage out.


on wife's Escort the coils are wound on the magnets, they are strong, so to flash a indexed hole in some metal by it, and generate a pulse....

hard to imagine a indexed hole giving shit.....

even the Dodge van had the coil around the magnet....

:quote::twitch:
 
If this wasn't an electronic engine what would you do to fix it if it was having this problem? You would look at the basics, compression, valve spring pressure, vacuum leaks, etc. I really don't think you have done enough of the basics before you jumped in with both feet and your wallet and started changing out electrical parts.

good luck not going broke trying to fix this ford.
 
If this wasn't an electronic engine what would you do to fix it if it was having this problem? You would look at the basics, compression, valve spring pressure, vacuum leaks, etc. I really don't think you have done enough of the basics before you jumped in with both feet and your wallet and started changing out electrical parts.

good luck not going broke trying to fix this ford.

Ok .... since you really have nothing constructive to add. Do you think I just jumped in with cold feet? Why would I be concerned about compression testing anyways. This thing doesn't even have 80K miles on it, compression will not cause the weird arcing issues I have with plug wires! Valve spring pressure give me a break, again at less then 80K miles?

They have a oil contamination issue due to valve cover design, this one clearly showed signs of this by the puddles of oil in the manifold. This is said to cause missfires and the upgrade was done!

All rubber intake gaskets were replaced again another issue they have that might trigger lean conditions.

all plug wires and plugs and coil pack were changed since original anyways to the car and all showed signs of wear.

new injectors since they are prone to failure

fuel pressure tests done

vacuum lines checked

I can certainly do any mechanical repairs anyone else can do and this van needed everything listed anyways so where is the money blown? I did all the recommended ford upgrades that it eventually would have needed anyways that are known to cause the symptoms this thing is having.

You show me a practical way of testing this thing for vacuum leaks, my guess is you have never worked on one. You will never get anything close enough to be drawn in where there could potentially be a vacuum leak! and anything flamable to try this with my plug arcing issue seems like a very stupid idea.

Only one bank of the engine is reporting lean and missfires. This is not the normal problem the windstars have. If it were a vacuum leak upstream from that bank both banks would be affected. The van uses a plastic base intake to head gasket imbedded with rubber sealing rings. So smart guy wouldn't you think that could be the issue as to why only one bank is running lean?

Low compression is usually followed by blowby, exhaust smoke, no power etc. All of which this van shows no signs of it! All vcuum ports have been plugged to eliminate an emmisions control device as the cause and it still ran the same.

Nothing I have done is not anything anyone else would have tried to cure the problem. It's next place is to ford to see if the PCM is corrupted and the heart of the problem.
 
wooah big boy, step back and breath. i was working on this stuff before you were born. You mention a knocking sound in the intake, hmmm, broken valve spring maybe? Have you taken the time to take off valve covers and test the spring pressure?
You showed a pic of an oil soaked plug, that oil came from somewhere, if it wasnt firing it would not be oil soaked just because, it came from somewhere. have you searched for that problem and cured it?
Have you used a diagnosis tree and verified everything that is shown to cause a given code is correct?
Did you even know that an oil soaked cyclinder will show good compression when in truth is has very little, the oil seals the rings, duh.
Have you replaced the intake gaskets, the exhaust manifold gaskets?

Believe it or not boy wonder all this shit goes together. You grew up in a plug and play world and now it is biting you in the wallet and ass.

just an fyi for your mind to absorb. A plugged air cleaner can cause the symptons you describe. cylinder misfire, electricity/blue light running down the od of the plug wires. rough running stumbling, cleans up a bit with rpms.
oh that isnt something you read on your ford websites or in your plug and play game boy world.

You couldnt hold a piss can for a true mechanic


No I am not drunk, or on drugs, just tired of this dumb shit not wanting to look at all angles to cure his problem.
Now lets see if I get banned like if I was posting on CF.

DEAR JEFF, please disreguard this post, I am sorry you are having problems with your vehicle. It sure sucks to work hard on your vehicle and not be able to fix it. I bet you are really frustrated and wish you could find the fix and get this saga over with.
I too will be glad when you are done with this saga. then you will be able to resign your membership here as you have allready stated
Rather own a ford then an obama motors product anytime of the day.
Last time this senile stupid know nothing looked, this is a site dedicated to an obama motor product not ford.I really do not know why you post here with your ford problems then tell the users their vehicles are not to your standards yet you ask them to tell you how to repair your ford
 
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wooah big boy, step back and breath. i was working on this stuff before you were born. You mention a knocking sound in the intake, hmmm, broken valve spring maybe? Have you taken the time to take off valve covers and test the spring pressure?
You showed a pic of an oil soaked plug, that oil came from somewhere, if it wasnt firing it would not be oil soaked just because, it came from somewhere. have you searched for that problem and cured it?
Have you used a diagnosis tree and verified everything that is shown to cause a given code is correct?
Did you even know that an oil soaked cyclinder will show good compression when in truth is has very little, the oil seals the rings, duh.
Have you replaced the intake gaskets, the exhaust manifold gaskets?

Believe it or not boy wonder all this shit goes together. You grew up in a plug and play world and now it is biting you in the wallet and ass.

just an fyi for your mind to absorb. A plugged air cleaner can cause the symptons you describe. cylinder misfire, electricity/blue light running down the od of the plug wires. rough running stumbling, cleans up a bit with rpms.
oh that isnt something you read on your ford websites or in your plug and play game boy world.

You couldnt hold a piss can for a true mechanic


No I am not drunk, or on drugs, just tired of this dumb shit not wanting to look at all angles to cure his problem.
Now lets see if I get banned like if I was posting on CF.

Guess I will head right to autozone tomorrow and buy a new air cleaner to replace the 2 week old one and be tickled that the van is running perfectly and that I listened to your advice.
 
Dear Jeff, I did not say your air cleaner was dirty, that is something you need to check on your own. I said it is possible that something that simple could cause symptoms similar to what you are experiencing.

You say you have done all possible diagnostics?
Have you checked the leak down rate of each cylinder?
Have you made block off plates and pressurized the intake/exhaust system from intake manifold inlet to cylinder head manifold flanges?
Have you acquired a ford factory service manual and followed the diagnostic tree and tested each variable that can cause a code or symptom such as you are experiencing?
You definitely have a problem, but in MY old foolish ignorant unedukated opinion are not going about finding the problem in a systematic way, beginning with the basics. I do truly hate to see you piss away your money and time to just have another failure.
Get a FORD FACTORY service manual and follow it.. Believe it or not those engineers that designed your vehicle also wrote a book on how to fix it and left a good amount of helpful information in the book you will not find on an an obama motors product enthusiast website. May possibly be the best $100 you spend on the Ford.

For example, what good is advice about a Buick v6 installed in an obama f body have to do with your ford v6 engine?



Those big tall buildings you see in downtown LA or where ever your at, did you know there is a foundation that supports them that was built first ?
You can't see it but it is there, a good mechanic will do the same thing start with a good foundation of knowledge and build from there. Not try to step on at the 3rd floor and wonder why . You need to buy the manuals, read and follow the diagnostic trees, the problem will be found.

And on one point you are correct, I have never worked on a 2000 Windstar 3.8 minivan. Closest I can come to that is a 2001 Mustang GT 4.6 sohc 2 valve EAOD, so it is not the same and the Ford shop manuals I have for it will not help you with your soccer van.

Although if you keep messing with this thing long enough I may be purchasing a mid to late 90's Mustang 3.8 v6 EAOD and will purchase the Ford factory shop manual for it at which time I still would not be able to contribute to your problem solving as the wiring in the Mustang will not be the same as the Windstar. One broken wire can cause you all your problems, but you gotta find it,, the correct book will go a long ways to finding it if that were to be your problem.

And my comment about not being able to hold a piss can to true mechanic, yes I may have been a bit rude, and I apologize to the sensitive ones on this website for speaking in such a manner
 
Well, I ran a vacuum test on this nightmare. With gauge hooked up to the port that the power brake booster line was on. When the van is running it's best the guage fluctuates very fast between 5 & 10 inches of vacuum. Then when it is on the verge of dying The guage fluctuates very fast between 0 & 5 inches of vacuum and then either dies or goes back to the 5 to 10 inches of vacuum and fluctuating.

A quik rev up of the engine and the gauge will zero out. However 10 inches of vacuum is the max it will pull at idle but it is never steady it always fluctuates very fast.

I'm going to pull all the plugs and run a compression test and see what that tells. Maybe this intake noise and rattling noise is a broken rocker or damaged piston who knows. But it is safe to conclude it is pointing more at a mechanical engine problem then a electronic issue at this point.

I am also going to pull the rear valve cover and see if a rocker is loose or broken and pop the plenum cover and see if the oil issue was resolved with the upgraded valve cover kit.
 
Well, I removed the rear valve cover and sad to say it does have a broken exhaust valve spring on the #2 cylinder.

Can this be changed without removing the cylinder head?

Would this trigger not only a miss detected in #2 but other cylinders as well? Obviously it is pointless to run a compression test at this point but is there a way to tell if the valve has been damaged as well?

These don't seem like very high seat pressure springs unless they are all week ... So what do I do to change the springs without pulling the heads. I've never done this before so any tips would be helpful.
 
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Nothing specific to your engine, but in general, you can use compressed air to hold the valves closed, and then tap the keepers/retainers loose with a hammer, compress the spring with whatever tool is used/recommended for your engine, and the air holds the valves in place while you release the spring....

the route I found more satisfactory was the old rope trick...feed a bunch of clothesline down the spark plug hole with piston at bottom of stroke and GENTLY rotate engine until piston compressed rope against the valves....

DO NOT USE THE STARTER...this is a manula operation....either via harmonica balancer in 'front' or via flex/fly wheel....

obviously you have to reverse rotate to release the rope and go to next cylinder....

it's a super duper PIA or certainly your lower back....

good assed fucking luck....you going to need it....only other way is to pull the heads....

FWD.....to do the last resort....pull the engine first...

YMMV...:friends:
 
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