1958 MGA Coupe

I cut the anti rattle springs although i am not sure why, they didnt look like they would hit any thing.

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with a grinder and a cut off wheel

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i will bend the tabs after its on the road with the real body

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had little Joe make a seat bottom

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hes going to have to get a pair of those skinny driving mocassins for those aircraft carrier size feet

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and todays work....

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made some room to work

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good day today......

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looks like a good match

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clean baby clean

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1/2 and 1/2

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plan is to change the oil pump and i see no reason to get out the engine stand

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this will get scotch brited and clear coated

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that my friends looks like a new pressure plate

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and of course the 2nd hardened gasket

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typical of an engine that has been sitting for decades

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looks like originalstyle pump

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new pistons

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another new piston, that makes 3 new pistions and one with oil stains

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cleaned up

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measure this tomorrow

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need to do some research on this freeze plug on why its out so far, when i got the car it still had antoifreeze in it and the radiator was full and had not split.

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a good day in bob land

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well I took care of the spin on oil filter adapter, I modified the approach Lee Narjam took and only did the grinding to the filter side of the retaining nut, this allows the machined surfaces to be mated to each other




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full face mask so icould see what i was doing and the final poisition was with the grinder on top paralell (sp?) to the wood

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its now 3/16 and it took about 30 mins of just slow work so i didnt screw up
 
had a family holiday party so my time was limitied today....pulled oil pump off and removed pressure plate.

pump came off easy

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heres how you measure it

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tough to hold and take a picture

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the oil pump is right at the point of out of specification and will be replaced

thats pretty clean in there considering that both the throw out bearing and clutch disk show about 1/3 wear

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no ridges or grooves almost looks like a new flywheel same with the pressure plate.

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so if the oil pump is just out of specs what else is going on?????

a one person show this am so this is how i wedged the crank to remove the crank nut

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well that doesnt look right

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so what else is going on????

pulled # 1 CR cap and this looks good the the crank has not been turned


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you probably know where this is going

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i think this is one of the left over front end parts it had a castellated nut on it

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yeah baby thats what we are talking about

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so you dont screw up

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and always take two pictures of imporatant stuff......it looked really nice

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on to the trans

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throw out bearing pivot bolt

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slightly worn clevis

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looks pretty good

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so heres my on the scene conclusion......some 40+ yrs ago and 10K ago they put in a new clutch,pressure plate,throw out brg and flywheel (based on a 30K mile clutch life of kids)then they drove the car until the engine started needing some help....then when it went to the shop it needed 3 pistons and this threw the budget out of whack, they replaced the 3 bad pistons and maybe the crank....cam is original and they replaced the main and con rod bearings. I know this car has good compression and i will not be taking the head off so who knows what new up there....and for some reason they had to replace the rear engine core plug
 
you won't pull the head? the cynic in me is laughing at you because he knows you will.... while you're in there, and while you're at it, and since it's the right way to do things.

:bump::skeptic:
 
you won't pull the head? the cynic in me is laughing at you because he knows you will.... while you're in there, and while you're at it, and since it's the right way to do things.

:bump::skeptic:

nope not this time..... i have great compression and it doesn't burn oil, i dont have any reason to think theres a problem or an issue. On these cars the 1500cc is the first generation old dog and most guys upgrade to a 1600cc or the 1800cc engine. so if you are going to spend any serious engine money you would just step right up to the one of those and spend the money there.
 
you won't pull the head? the cynic in me is laughing at you because he knows you will.... while you're in there, and while you're at it, and since it's the right way to do things.

:bump::skeptic:

nope not this time..... i have great compression and it doesn't burn oil, i dont have any reason to think theres a problem or an issue. On these cars the 1500cc is the first generation old dog and most guys upgrade to a 1600cc or the 1800cc engine. so if you are going to spend any serious engine money you would just step right up to the one of those and spend the money there.

then you will be an example to us all ;)
 
did some more quick clean up on the trans

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in case you ever wanted to know....the trans mount has a stepped outer ring

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the trans mount is soaking in PB blaster i have no idea if that works with steel and aluminnum galvanic corrision but since i did this before i am more careful with trans casings,see that nice shiny area....i broke it off by accident

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nope not this time..... i have great compression and it doesn't burn oil, i dont have any reason to think theres a problem or an issue. On these cars the 1500cc is the first generation old dog and most guys upgrade to a 1600cc or the 1800cc engine. so if you are going to spend any serious engine money you would just step right up to the one of those and spend the money there.

So before long we're going to be seeing a bored, stroked and supercharged 1800cc in there. :bump:
 
when i get a chance i will link up a guys thread where he slightly modified the drive line.....this is pretty sweet

http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,2542209


well I didnt have any problem just work.....

hard to see but i cut and sectioned the inner sleeve with a body saw and collapsed the mount in on itself

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mated the trans bracket to a socket for support and tapped the mount out


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i win, remember its just metal

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seems like a newer trans then should be there

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cleaned

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clear coated

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Merry Christmas what a great day today for the family..


when the boss curled up for a little snooze i beelined out to the garage for some clean work.

started by carefully examining the trans mount bushing to make sure there were not any nicks in the casing shell and there was so i took a file to those and then polished it with 600 grit paper and oil to make sure i had a really nice smooth surface, then cleaned it really well and set it out side on a block of ice with the "press socket"

came inside and "brake honed" the trans mount and made sure there were no nicks inthe outer most part of the mount and deburred it with a fine file on both sides and cleaned it with brake clean and then oiled it up. i prestaged all the tools i would need and i put on gloves so i didnt transfer any body heat

i found the pitman arm off of a corvette worked pretty well to start the process

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it was a pretty good upper body work out even with the 2' long breaker bar, i had one foot on the trans base or i was just picking up the trans when i tightened the bolt

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done

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and Santa was very good to me all the parts i ordered on Monday to wrap the engine/trans install up were deliverd yesterday afternoon, I dont often set timeframes but the goal is have the engine in the car by sundown Sunday.
 
dry fitting of the oil filter head to bend the tubing to fit

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off alittle bit

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just a vise and dead blow hammer

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give it a little bend

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done
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checked specs and washed with soapy water and a bottle brush , lubed up with engine build grease

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hammered down the bottom with a piece of wood and dead blow hammer on the floor
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sanded and cleaned

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not sure how other do this but this is what i conjured up

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divine inspiration the sun shone in i did put the new tenisoner in also must have missed the photo

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this really screwed with me for a moment trying to use the new one but the woodruff key wasnt long enough


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didnt finish it all though before the boss came looking for me.

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ready for the inner trans tunnel to get painted and an engine install
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As always, this is some awesome work !!! I really can't wait to see this car on the road (well, photos or video) .... Lol...... You're making so much progress I wonder if you have the plates and drive it before I get this VW done.....
 
it was a good day today


i decided to paint the oil filter head to engine color

it lines up nicely and has two new crush washers

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tabs folded over

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torqueing oil pan bolts.....72inch lbs not much

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collapsed the wrong core plug in on itself

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not too much gunk

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cleaned up

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done

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cleaning one more time

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paint time

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inside and outside painted

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garage turned up to about 75* for drying purposes.
 
thks tying up loose ends

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easy way to help seat the bolts

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replaced front trans cover seal

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pressing in new seal

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new one measeured 3/16

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everything went very well today

tightening trans to engine

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the kids even pulled out my MG shirt from 22 yrs ago...

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torqueing bolts

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one trans bolt and 10 motor mount bolts

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still need to get the right seal for the timing chain cover or get a new cover to match the seal i got


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