bobs77vet
Well-known member
wow I could definitely hang out in that shop and learn lots of stuff
Amazing XKE Restomod- Air Dam 10/23/24
- Thread starter BBShark
- Start date
Yeah, I've been agonizing over fabrication of a plenum for my car for months.
I changed my mind when I saw this, apparently I'm just lazy:
I changed my mind when I saw this, apparently I'm just lazy:
bobs77vet
Well-known member
I would even volunteer to do the grinding and finish prep
Fuel Pump
I wanted to use the fuel pump that I acquired with the engine/transmission package that I purchased. It's an original GM in tank unit with an integral swirl pot and pressure regulator.
The immediate issue I found, it was too tall to fit flush into the Jaguar fuel tank. I didn't want to modify the fuel pump assembly so I built an adapter to suit.
OEM fuel pump with level sender:
Parts fabricated for adapter:
The top ring holding the pump down, I was able to fabricate from aluminum:
Because of an internal baffle in the fuel tank, I had to rotate the pump to provide clearance for the level gauge float to function. I used an angle fitting to route the hose.
Pump installed:
Air Intake
Thanks to the "power bulge" on the E-Type bonnet, I was able to get my air filter to the front side of the radiator in an easy manner. Space was tight but it did fit.
Using a 3 ½" diameter, 45 degree mandrel bent tube, I spliced together what I needed to get around the radiator and still clear the underside of the bonnet.
Added two ears that sit on the lord mounts and a bung for the AIT sensor.
Fabrication of the tubing:
I wanted to use the fuel pump that I acquired with the engine/transmission package that I purchased. It's an original GM in tank unit with an integral swirl pot and pressure regulator.
The immediate issue I found, it was too tall to fit flush into the Jaguar fuel tank. I didn't want to modify the fuel pump assembly so I built an adapter to suit.
OEM fuel pump with level sender:
Parts fabricated for adapter:
The top ring holding the pump down, I was able to fabricate from aluminum:
Because of an internal baffle in the fuel tank, I had to rotate the pump to provide clearance for the level gauge float to function. I used an angle fitting to route the hose.
Pump installed:
Air Intake
Thanks to the "power bulge" on the E-Type bonnet, I was able to get my air filter to the front side of the radiator in an easy manner. Space was tight but it did fit.
Using a 3 ½" diameter, 45 degree mandrel bent tube, I spliced together what I needed to get around the radiator and still clear the underside of the bonnet.
Added two ears that sit on the lord mounts and a bung for the AIT sensor.
Fabrication of the tubing:
Cooling System
Expansion and Overflow Tanks
The dual pass radiator that I ended up with didn't have a radiator cap so I would need an expansion tank in my cooling system. This tank, from Canton, has a small line feeding into it from the top of the radiator and a 5/8" hose at the bottom of it that I choose to tap into the lower radiator hose with. This will be my fill point for the system.
The overflow tank is mounted next to the expansion tank, all on the right side of the engine.
Expansion and overflow tank assembly:
Lower Radiator Hose
Two things complicated the installation of the lower rad hose.
Firstly, the neck at the engine takes a 1 1/2" hose and the fitting at the rad takes a 1 3/4" hose size.
Secondly, the frame rail and the upper control arm obstructed the routing.
I collected the material to do the job being, 1 1/2" 90 degree and 1 3/4" 45 degree silicone hoses. A 1 3/4" to 1 1/2" reducer would take me to the 1 1/2" SS tubing I pieced together.
A bung on the backside of the tubing took a fitting for the 5/8" hose that goes up to the Canton expansion tank. A second bung lower down mounted the drain petcock since the radiator didn't have one.
Fabricating the SS tube assembly:
Heater Hoses +Upper Radiator Hose
I had to use a couple of 90 degree fittings to get the heater hoses going in the right direction. The 5/8" inlet hose has a shut off valve in line, controlled by the Vintage Air unit.
Hoses heading towards firewall:
The upper radiator hose was much easier to route than the lower hose. Again, using 1 ½" SS tubing, I came out of the radiator but needed a 1 ½" to 1 ¼" reducer for the GM water pump neck. They have to make it difficult.
I added a fitting for a bleed valve and a fitting to connect the cylinder head steam pipe. Where to run this steam pipe is of some interest. Some people tap into the top of the water pump, others to the radiator.
Upper radiator hose test fitted:
Hose assembly with bleed valve and steam pipe fitting:
Expansion and Overflow Tanks
The dual pass radiator that I ended up with didn't have a radiator cap so I would need an expansion tank in my cooling system. This tank, from Canton, has a small line feeding into it from the top of the radiator and a 5/8" hose at the bottom of it that I choose to tap into the lower radiator hose with. This will be my fill point for the system.
The overflow tank is mounted next to the expansion tank, all on the right side of the engine.
Expansion and overflow tank assembly:
Lower Radiator Hose
Two things complicated the installation of the lower rad hose.
Firstly, the neck at the engine takes a 1 1/2" hose and the fitting at the rad takes a 1 3/4" hose size.
Secondly, the frame rail and the upper control arm obstructed the routing.
I collected the material to do the job being, 1 1/2" 90 degree and 1 3/4" 45 degree silicone hoses. A 1 3/4" to 1 1/2" reducer would take me to the 1 1/2" SS tubing I pieced together.
A bung on the backside of the tubing took a fitting for the 5/8" hose that goes up to the Canton expansion tank. A second bung lower down mounted the drain petcock since the radiator didn't have one.
Fabricating the SS tube assembly:
Heater Hoses +Upper Radiator Hose
I had to use a couple of 90 degree fittings to get the heater hoses going in the right direction. The 5/8" inlet hose has a shut off valve in line, controlled by the Vintage Air unit.
Hoses heading towards firewall:
The upper radiator hose was much easier to route than the lower hose. Again, using 1 ½" SS tubing, I came out of the radiator but needed a 1 ½" to 1 ¼" reducer for the GM water pump neck. They have to make it difficult.
I added a fitting for a bleed valve and a fitting to connect the cylinder head steam pipe. Where to run this steam pipe is of some interest. Some people tap into the top of the water pump, others to the radiator.
Upper radiator hose test fitted:
Hose assembly with bleed valve and steam pipe fitting:
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I'm going to redo the cooling system in my C3 as part of its EFI updates... love seeing how you folks are doing yours, it really helps envision where I need to go.
A/C Lines
Space was limited for routing the A/C lines to the front side of the radiator to connect the condenser and filter dryer.
My only option was to use hard lines and sneak above the tie rod and below the radiator tank. I used two 24" lengths.
Hard lines shaped with fittings:
Lines installed and clipped:
Dryer mounted in front of radiator:
45 degree port fittings to exit compressor:
Space was limited for routing the A/C lines to the front side of the radiator to connect the condenser and filter dryer.
My only option was to use hard lines and sneak above the tie rod and below the radiator tank. I used two 24" lengths.
Hard lines shaped with fittings:
Lines installed and clipped:
Dryer mounted in front of radiator:
45 degree port fittings to exit compressor:
Coilover Spring Compressor
With the help of someone else's YouTube video, I put together a spring compressor to assemble and possibly swap over springs on my coilovers.
Works well:
I have the four original springs for the rear shocks which I'll mount and see how the car sits. That will give me a base line to work from.
I'll probably do the same for the front.
Backup Light
The Jaguar E-type used a single, centrally located backup light. I didn't get one with this car.
I liked the size and shape of the VW Jetta side marker light, so I went with that. After fabricating a housing, I mounted a top quality LED 1156 bulb in it.
Lens and housing:
Oil Pan
I bought the engine, transmission package for this car from a reputable dismantler out of Pennsylvania. The declared mileage was 26,678. I researched the car's VIN and found photos of the car in salvage, linked to the insurance claim. The photos showed the car was probably damaged just enough to write it off.
The engine turns over freely enough but I've never heard it run. If it isn't right, I'll have it fixed. In the mean time, I thought I'd pull the pan and have a look.
Car in salvage yard:
With the help of someone else's YouTube video, I put together a spring compressor to assemble and possibly swap over springs on my coilovers.
Works well:
I have the four original springs for the rear shocks which I'll mount and see how the car sits. That will give me a base line to work from.
I'll probably do the same for the front.
Backup Light
The Jaguar E-type used a single, centrally located backup light. I didn't get one with this car.
I liked the size and shape of the VW Jetta side marker light, so I went with that. After fabricating a housing, I mounted a top quality LED 1156 bulb in it.
Lens and housing:
Oil Pan
I bought the engine, transmission package for this car from a reputable dismantler out of Pennsylvania. The declared mileage was 26,678. I researched the car's VIN and found photos of the car in salvage, linked to the insurance claim. The photos showed the car was probably damaged just enough to write it off.
The engine turns over freely enough but I've never heard it run. If it isn't right, I'll have it fixed. In the mean time, I thought I'd pull the pan and have a look.
Car in salvage yard:
Steering Column & Coils
I wanted to use the ignition switch assembly that I got with the wiring harness/engine transmission package. That ignition key has the resistor in it that operates the Vehicle Anti-theft System. That switch assembly is a larger diameter than the one in the Fiero column I'm using.
I was able to swap over the housing from the 2001 Trans Am to the 1985 Fiero column. The only modification required was to shorten the housing length.
Both columns disassembled:
Different housings and key assemblies:
Length being modified:
Steering column finished:
Ignition Coils and Wires
I've never been overly fond of the look the LS engine has when the coils are mounted on the valve covers. Yes, they're accessible for trouble shooting, but how often do they give you trouble? I choose down in front for this engine.
Mounting Coils
Right Side
I stacked the coils on a bracket fabricated from 20 ga. steel, then mounted that to an aluminum plate that bolts to the side of the engine block.
Left Side
Again, I stacked the coils, but here I mounted the aluminum plate to the front of the engine block, keeping the coils level.
Ignition Wires
Left side
To keep the wires away from the exhaust headers, I ty-rapped them to a plate mounted against the block. The plates were made from SS sheet topped with high temp ABS plastic. I used an MSD wire kit that gives you the spark plug caps finished and then the coil cap ends are cut to length.
Wire rack mounted:
I wanted to use the ignition switch assembly that I got with the wiring harness/engine transmission package. That ignition key has the resistor in it that operates the Vehicle Anti-theft System. That switch assembly is a larger diameter than the one in the Fiero column I'm using.
I was able to swap over the housing from the 2001 Trans Am to the 1985 Fiero column. The only modification required was to shorten the housing length.
Both columns disassembled:
Different housings and key assemblies:
Length being modified:
Steering column finished:
Ignition Coils and Wires
I've never been overly fond of the look the LS engine has when the coils are mounted on the valve covers. Yes, they're accessible for trouble shooting, but how often do they give you trouble? I choose down in front for this engine.
Mounting Coils
Right Side
I stacked the coils on a bracket fabricated from 20 ga. steel, then mounted that to an aluminum plate that bolts to the side of the engine block.
Left Side
Again, I stacked the coils, but here I mounted the aluminum plate to the front of the engine block, keeping the coils level.
Ignition Wires
Left side
To keep the wires away from the exhaust headers, I ty-rapped them to a plate mounted against the block. The plates were made from SS sheet topped with high temp ABS plastic. I used an MSD wire kit that gives you the spark plug caps finished and then the coil cap ends are cut to length.
Wire rack mounted:
bobs77vet
Well-known member
very nice, remember those stamped heat shields under the exhaust manifolds on the early 70s sting rays
Wiring Harnesses
When I purchased the 2002 engine and transmission package, I had the supplier ship me not just the engine wiring harness but also the complete body wiring harnesses. I wanted to fabricate my own electrical system based on the OEM GM design.
The main harnesses in this car consisted of:
Engine wiring harness – more or less self-contained holding the PCM
Forward Lamp harness – located in the engine bay and has the two fuse blocks, upper and lower
Instrument Panel wiring harness – located mostly under the dash and has the I/P fuse block
Cross Car wiring harness – also under the dash, connecting the two doors
I laid out all four harnesses on the living room floor and took stock, labeling each connector to familiarize myself with what goes where. Initially, I must admit, I was overwhelmed with all the wires and connectors.
I put the engine and forward lamp harnesses in place to see if I could keep the PCM and the two U/H fuse blocks in the general vicinity of where they were in the Pontiac Trans Am. That would simplify the job of shortening and lengthening of wires.
The main systems I could eliminate to start with from the OEM harnesses were:
ABS - not applicable
DRL (daytime running lights) - not applicable
Stereo – using my own
Power Windows - using my own
HVAC - using my own
Using the 3 volume GM service manual, I plowed through each harness, adding and subtracting wires and connectors
These manuals are indispensable. Learning how to use them takes time though. The two main features are the schematics showing wire size, colour, number and function.
The connector end views are useful for initial identification and later for wire location on the connector.
One step at a time
Wipers, final test
When I bench tested my Jaguar wiper motor with the GM wiper switch using my two relays, I thought that system was complete. But to be sure, I wanted to see them working in the car, with the new wiring harness.
The wiring harness was OK, but my switch selection was not. For the bench test, I used the wiper switch from an'85 Fiero. In the steering column I'm using, I have a switch from a '94 Firebird. They're not all the same. A simple swap would not work.
The solution was to take the internal parts from the older switch and transplant them into the newer switch body.
Replacing the battery in my iPhone 6 was easier.
When I purchased the 2002 engine and transmission package, I had the supplier ship me not just the engine wiring harness but also the complete body wiring harnesses. I wanted to fabricate my own electrical system based on the OEM GM design.
The main harnesses in this car consisted of:
Engine wiring harness – more or less self-contained holding the PCM
Forward Lamp harness – located in the engine bay and has the two fuse blocks, upper and lower
Instrument Panel wiring harness – located mostly under the dash and has the I/P fuse block
Cross Car wiring harness – also under the dash, connecting the two doors
I laid out all four harnesses on the living room floor and took stock, labeling each connector to familiarize myself with what goes where. Initially, I must admit, I was overwhelmed with all the wires and connectors.
I put the engine and forward lamp harnesses in place to see if I could keep the PCM and the two U/H fuse blocks in the general vicinity of where they were in the Pontiac Trans Am. That would simplify the job of shortening and lengthening of wires.
The main systems I could eliminate to start with from the OEM harnesses were:
ABS - not applicable
DRL (daytime running lights) - not applicable
Stereo – using my own
Power Windows - using my own
HVAC - using my own
Using the 3 volume GM service manual, I plowed through each harness, adding and subtracting wires and connectors
These manuals are indispensable. Learning how to use them takes time though. The two main features are the schematics showing wire size, colour, number and function.
The connector end views are useful for initial identification and later for wire location on the connector.
One step at a time
Wipers, final test
When I bench tested my Jaguar wiper motor with the GM wiper switch using my two relays, I thought that system was complete. But to be sure, I wanted to see them working in the car, with the new wiring harness.
The wiring harness was OK, but my switch selection was not. For the bench test, I used the wiper switch from an'85 Fiero. In the steering column I'm using, I have a switch from a '94 Firebird. They're not all the same. A simple swap would not work.
The solution was to take the internal parts from the older switch and transplant them into the newer switch body.
Replacing the battery in my iPhone 6 was easier.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
Impressed. color me very, very impressed
bobs77vet
Well-known member
wow!!!
phantomjock
Well-known member
Thanks!
Once again a you have provided me a "next step forward."
I like the spring compressor idea, and the fuel tank mod, and... on and on.
Cheers - Jim
Once again a you have provided me a "next step forward."
I like the spring compressor idea, and the fuel tank mod, and... on and on.
Cheers - Jim
Ignition Coil Control Wires
With the ignition coils relocated from on top of the valve covers to the lower sides of the engine block, it was obvious I would have to rewire their control circuits.
The original sub-harness was a compact unit that contained three spliced circuits and one control wire for each coil.
Using new wire, I fabricated two new harnesses.
In the photo:
-original harness
-fabrication, completion and installation
More metal work
Found some more metal work to be done during the wiring phase.
Fabricated a heat shield for the battery and shaped some clips to secure the battery cables to the frame rails.
Also filled the firewall. I was going to wait until I pulled the engine but I wanted a final harness pass through to work with. Looking for a "smooth" firewall.
In the photo:
-Aluminum heat shield fabricated
-Battery cables clipped to frame
-Firewall filled
Choice of connectors in wiring harness
For those unfamiliar with weatherproof connectors in the automotive field, there two types, Metri-pack and Weather pack.
Metri-Pack terminals are different from Weather Pack terminals in that the male terminals have flat tabs, similar to a quick-disconnect, rather than Weather Pack's round pins.
Since the GM harness that I'm using has the Metri-pack style, I chose to stick with them.
In researching Aptiv's products, (formerly Delphi), I found the GT series to my liking.
From the internet:
Aptiv GT 150 Connectors have a small package size suited to fit the shrinking space requirements of today's vehicles and equipment. Tangless terminals with stamped serrations, Connector Position Assurance (CPA), Terminal Position Assurance (TPA), and Primary Lock Reinforcement (PLR) with positive connector seal retention make Aptiv's GT 150 connectors easy to install and durable in heavy duty environments.
Mouser Electronics of Canada helped me choose the connectors I needed. It's a huge global distributor that ships out of Texas, quickly.
In the photo:
- example of a 2 pin GT 150 connector
- 4 pin connector for the A/C trinary switch
- 6 pin connector for the wiper motor
- wiper circuit relays bundled and labeled
Engine running after first start
After a lot of work deleting circuits, adding circuits and testing circuits, I was ready to try and start the engine. It cranked but wouldn't fire.
Turned out, when I shortened the wires to the crank sensor, I didn't re-pin it correctly. Easily fixed, I was on my way.
Having never heard the engine run, I was a bit apprehensive, but I'm pleased with the results. I've had it up to operating temperature, there are no trouble codes and I'm happy with the exhaust note.
With the ignition coils relocated from on top of the valve covers to the lower sides of the engine block, it was obvious I would have to rewire their control circuits.
The original sub-harness was a compact unit that contained three spliced circuits and one control wire for each coil.
Using new wire, I fabricated two new harnesses.
In the photo:
-original harness
-fabrication, completion and installation
More metal work
Found some more metal work to be done during the wiring phase.
Fabricated a heat shield for the battery and shaped some clips to secure the battery cables to the frame rails.
Also filled the firewall. I was going to wait until I pulled the engine but I wanted a final harness pass through to work with. Looking for a "smooth" firewall.
In the photo:
-Aluminum heat shield fabricated
-Battery cables clipped to frame
-Firewall filled
Choice of connectors in wiring harness
For those unfamiliar with weatherproof connectors in the automotive field, there two types, Metri-pack and Weather pack.
Metri-Pack terminals are different from Weather Pack terminals in that the male terminals have flat tabs, similar to a quick-disconnect, rather than Weather Pack's round pins.
Since the GM harness that I'm using has the Metri-pack style, I chose to stick with them.
In researching Aptiv's products, (formerly Delphi), I found the GT series to my liking.
From the internet:
Aptiv GT 150 Connectors have a small package size suited to fit the shrinking space requirements of today's vehicles and equipment. Tangless terminals with stamped serrations, Connector Position Assurance (CPA), Terminal Position Assurance (TPA), and Primary Lock Reinforcement (PLR) with positive connector seal retention make Aptiv's GT 150 connectors easy to install and durable in heavy duty environments.
Mouser Electronics of Canada helped me choose the connectors I needed. It's a huge global distributor that ships out of Texas, quickly.
In the photo:
- example of a 2 pin GT 150 connector
- 4 pin connector for the A/C trinary switch
- 6 pin connector for the wiper motor
- wiper circuit relays bundled and labeled
Engine running after first start
After a lot of work deleting circuits, adding circuits and testing circuits, I was ready to try and start the engine. It cranked but wouldn't fire.
Turned out, when I shortened the wires to the crank sensor, I didn't re-pin it correctly. Easily fixed, I was on my way.
Having never heard the engine run, I was a bit apprehensive, but I'm pleased with the results. I've had it up to operating temperature, there are no trouble codes and I'm happy with the exhaust note.
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
that is awesome!
phantomjock
Well-known member
Inspirational! I am liking the cockpit layout.
Cheers - Jim
Cheers - Jim
bobs77vet
Well-known member
i wonder if they are going to put in the engine management system like in my 04 C5 that lets you read all the codes from the driver information center
Interior Panels
Even though the interior of a car is installed after the body work and paint is finished, I wanted to do as much prep work for this as possible. I had some of the original interior panels from the car but they were all in pitiful condition. Besides, with all the changes I've done, I would need to fabricate my own anyway. I'm using 1/8" ABS plastic and Au-ve-co trim fasteners.
I had to do some cutting and welding before making the door panel. Previously, I had planned on fabricating my own arm rests, working around the protruding power window motor. I abandoned that plan, set the motor 3/8" into the door framework so it sat flush and I could use the original style E-type arm rest.
The easiest way to fabricate door panel is to tape a sheet of heavy duty clear plastic to the door frame and mark the cutouts and existing mounting holes. You then transfer that to the ABS plastic sheet that has masking tape applied to it, trace the cutouts and center punch the holes. A jig saw does quick work of the plastic. Photos in collage:
Previous to cutting door frame for motor
After cutting
Clear plastic on door frame
Door panel cut
The E-type door panel has a couple of bends in it. I found the safest way to make an accurate bend is to clamp one side to the table and cover the other side, top and bottom, with plate aluminum, leaving only about a 1" strip of ABS exposed. Warm this with a heat gun and you can control where your bend with be.
Bending ABS:
Collection of panels fabricated:
Door panel mounted including release handle, power window switch, speaker, courtesy lamp and arm rest:
Back to the Boot
I had a couple of things to do in the boot to make it more liveable and now was the time to construct.
The first was to make a divider, separating the fuel tank from the spare tire area. Since I had no plans to ever carry a spare tire, this would now be the "trunk". A divider would help contain things.
Fabricated from 1/16" aluminum:
The other thing I wanted to do, was to provide a hinged hatch to access this trunk area using quick release latches.
Panel hinged and latched:
Even though the interior of a car is installed after the body work and paint is finished, I wanted to do as much prep work for this as possible. I had some of the original interior panels from the car but they were all in pitiful condition. Besides, with all the changes I've done, I would need to fabricate my own anyway. I'm using 1/8" ABS plastic and Au-ve-co trim fasteners.
I had to do some cutting and welding before making the door panel. Previously, I had planned on fabricating my own arm rests, working around the protruding power window motor. I abandoned that plan, set the motor 3/8" into the door framework so it sat flush and I could use the original style E-type arm rest.
The easiest way to fabricate door panel is to tape a sheet of heavy duty clear plastic to the door frame and mark the cutouts and existing mounting holes. You then transfer that to the ABS plastic sheet that has masking tape applied to it, trace the cutouts and center punch the holes. A jig saw does quick work of the plastic. Photos in collage:
Previous to cutting door frame for motor
After cutting
Clear plastic on door frame
Door panel cut
The E-type door panel has a couple of bends in it. I found the safest way to make an accurate bend is to clamp one side to the table and cover the other side, top and bottom, with plate aluminum, leaving only about a 1" strip of ABS exposed. Warm this with a heat gun and you can control where your bend with be.
Bending ABS:
Collection of panels fabricated:
Door panel mounted including release handle, power window switch, speaker, courtesy lamp and arm rest:
Back to the Boot
I had a couple of things to do in the boot to make it more liveable and now was the time to construct.
The first was to make a divider, separating the fuel tank from the spare tire area. Since I had no plans to ever carry a spare tire, this would now be the "trunk". A divider would help contain things.
Fabricated from 1/16" aluminum:
The other thing I wanted to do, was to provide a hinged hatch to access this trunk area using quick release latches.
Panel hinged and latched:
Stainless Steel Trim
Jaguar had metal trim on the door panels and what could be called luggage runners in the boot. I received none of these when I got this car. I’ll have to make my own.
I choose 3/8” dia., 0.049 wall, 304 stainless tubing. With a zip saw, I cut it in half, then welded a trimmed 6/32 nut to the inside for mounting purposes. The upper pieces on the door panel had to be mitered to create an angle. Other pieces required a slight bend to follow the panel shape.
To split the tube, I clamped one end in a table vise and secured the other end to the table. Following the marked masking tape, the saw cut went quickly.
Cut setup:
The whole job was quite time consuming. The zip cut and welding would distort the thin wall tube and the tack would create a raised section. All that would require a file for leveling and various grades of sandpaper and buffing to gain the look of chrome. A job I wouldn’t want to do full time…
Jaguar had metal trim on the door panels and what could be called luggage runners in the boot. I received none of these when I got this car. I’ll have to make my own.
I choose 3/8” dia., 0.049 wall, 304 stainless tubing. With a zip saw, I cut it in half, then welded a trimmed 6/32 nut to the inside for mounting purposes. The upper pieces on the door panel had to be mitered to create an angle. Other pieces required a slight bend to follow the panel shape.
To split the tube, I clamped one end in a table vise and secured the other end to the table. Following the marked masking tape, the saw cut went quickly.
Cut setup:
The whole job was quite time consuming. The zip cut and welding would distort the thin wall tube and the tack would create a raised section. All that would require a file for leveling and various grades of sandpaper and buffing to gain the look of chrome. A job I wouldn’t want to do full time…
