The top section was sliced and swung down and inward to connect with the lower valance. Fill the gap again:
Finished
Amazing XKE Restomod- Air Dam 10/23/24
- Thread starter BBShark
- Start date
The top section was sliced and swung down and inward to connect with the lower valance. Fill the gap again:
Finished
The left side lower section was in good condition. The upper portion was too far outward:
Again, this required a slice, then a filler piece with some pie cuts to bring the curve inward:
Again, this required a slice, then a filler piece with some pie cuts to bring the curve inward:
bobs77vet
Well-known member
very nice, i thought of buying a rusted out bug eye sprite just to weld up the unibody . its so small it would be fun welding project.
On my project list is replacing some rusty panels on my old Tahoe. It has been on my list for 5 years. I want to finish my Corvette first so, probably another 5 years!
I made up a grid board to measure off the curves from center and horizontal to confirm symmetry. Trimmed the inside mouth area to make it the same all around. Metal work done:
Radiator w/fans and A/C Condenser
I wanted to start on the splash panels inside the bonnet but need to know where the radiator will go first. Time to get that assembly in.
I went with a Spal dual fan assembly. This was too narrow for my radiator so I split it down the middle, added a filler strip then riveted the two halves to a 1"X1" aluminum frame work:
The vertical square tubes of the frame work slip over two studs I welded to the chassis:
My radiator is a 31" x 21" Afco double pass:
Radiator in place:
The A/C condenser mounts to a welded aluminum frame work that will also support the splash panels:
This frame bolts to two stands welded to the bonnet hinge support tubes:
Radiator w/fans and A/C Condenser
I wanted to start on the splash panels inside the bonnet but need to know where the radiator will go first. Time to get that assembly in.
I went with a Spal dual fan assembly. This was too narrow for my radiator so I split it down the middle, added a filler strip then riveted the two halves to a 1"X1" aluminum frame work:
The vertical square tubes of the frame work slip over two studs I welded to the chassis:
My radiator is a 31" x 21" Afco double pass:
Radiator in place:
The A/C condenser mounts to a welded aluminum frame work that will also support the splash panels:
This frame bolts to two stands welded to the bonnet hinge support tubes:
Attachments
Bonnet openers, Gas Shocks
The original Jaguar bonnet openers consisted of a heavy spring assembly that I'm told, never worked all that well, letting the bonnet come crashing down on your head.
They make a gas shock retrofit now but of course, it wasn't close to what I needed.
I had a couple of used hood shocks from a Nissan 240SX that I played around with and with some cardboard cut-outs, came up with a configuration that seemed geometrically feasible. Thinking two shocks wouldn't be sufficient, I made allowances for four.
Bracket to mount on bonnet valance:
Bracket to mount on chassis:
Gas Shocks mounted.
The pair on the top are used with a 56 lb. rating
The pair on the bottom are new with a 34 lb. rating
This combination gave the best balance.
Here's a video of the before and after. Before, I was using a rope and pully system to lift from a center point because of the flex in the bonnet.
With the gas shocks, there's a nice balance and I'm hoping I have the correct clearance to road surface.
The original Jaguar bonnet openers consisted of a heavy spring assembly that I'm told, never worked all that well, letting the bonnet come crashing down on your head.
They make a gas shock retrofit now but of course, it wasn't close to what I needed.
I had a couple of used hood shocks from a Nissan 240SX that I played around with and with some cardboard cut-outs, came up with a configuration that seemed geometrically feasible. Thinking two shocks wouldn't be sufficient, I made allowances for four.
Bracket to mount on bonnet valance:
Bracket to mount on chassis:
Gas Shocks mounted.
The pair on the top are used with a 56 lb. rating
The pair on the bottom are new with a 34 lb. rating
This combination gave the best balance.
Here's a video of the before and after. Before, I was using a rope and pully system to lift from a center point because of the flex in the bonnet.
With the gas shocks, there's a nice balance and I'm hoping I have the correct clearance to road surface.
rtj
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2011
- Messages
- 3,183
Huge project, but seems to be making good progress.
If/when I start doing car projects again, I think bundling photos into a movie and sharing through YouTube is the way to go.
Don’t know about anyone else, but after getting the jab, working and going to the gym seems to be all I do (beside sleep).
If/when I start doing car projects again, I think bundling photos into a movie and sharing through YouTube is the way to go.
Don’t know about anyone else, but after getting the jab, working and going to the gym seems to be all I do (beside sleep).
bobs77vet
Well-known member
I had no problems with my three jabs, I am just ready and excited that things seem to be getting better, I did pick up a few lbs from working at home though. its funny at work I had ditched the elevator in favor of the stairs and I never realized the cumulative benefit of that.
I look at this work on the Jag and it gets me excited thinking about projects
I look at this work on the Jag and it gets me excited thinking about projects
Inner Fender Wells
With the radiator and fans mounted, I could now work on the inner fender wells. Like everything else on this car forward of the firewall, none of the original Jaguar components fit so I'll have to fabricate my own.
The radiator is Big, big and Wide. So are the tires. My steering is limited by the width of the radiator since the front edge of the tire hits the radiator tank. I therefore needed to keep the inner fender tight to the tank..
The fender wells have two parts, top and bottom. The top half is attached to the underside of the bonnet. The two obviously must mate with some kind of a weather seal.
Front tire mounted:
I'm using 1/16' sheet aluminum for the fender wells and 1" X 1/8" aluminum flat bar as a framework.
Cut, welded and bent framework:
Mounts welded in for framework:
Overall framework:
Now all I have to do is fill it in. Both sides.
As usual, I made a CAD design first, patterns to be cut from 1/16" sheet aluminum:
With the radiator and fans mounted, I could now work on the inner fender wells. Like everything else on this car forward of the firewall, none of the original Jaguar components fit so I'll have to fabricate my own.
The radiator is Big, big and Wide. So are the tires. My steering is limited by the width of the radiator since the front edge of the tire hits the radiator tank. I therefore needed to keep the inner fender tight to the tank..
The fender wells have two parts, top and bottom. The top half is attached to the underside of the bonnet. The two obviously must mate with some kind of a weather seal.
Front tire mounted:
I'm using 1/16' sheet aluminum for the fender wells and 1" X 1/8" aluminum flat bar as a framework.
Cut, welded and bent framework:
Mounts welded in for framework:
Overall framework:
Now all I have to do is fill it in. Both sides.
As usual, I made a CAD design first, patterns to be cut from 1/16" sheet aluminum:
Rear Fenders
After finalizing the shape of the front fenders, it meant I could move back to the rear fenders. I wanted to keep a similar profile.
The original fenders had a right angle bend at the contour. I decided to form a 1/4" rod to the shape I wanted then build off of that.
As a starting point, I anchored the rod at the back of the wheel well in a temporary device:
Bringing the rod out level and perpendicular to the car, I shaped it up and around the tire allowing clearance at ride height. Extending the 1/4" rod:
I attached a template to the wheel at ride height, centered and level, representing the upper portion of the fender profile I wanted:
Foam taped to the tire gave me my tire/fender clearance:
Happy with the right side, I needed to duplicate the shape for the left. Setting up the right side on the work bench, I used two templates and measurements to form the reverse shape:
After finalizing the shape of the front fenders, it meant I could move back to the rear fenders. I wanted to keep a similar profile.
The original fenders had a right angle bend at the contour. I decided to form a 1/4" rod to the shape I wanted then build off of that.
As a starting point, I anchored the rod at the back of the wheel well in a temporary device:
Bringing the rod out level and perpendicular to the car, I shaped it up and around the tire allowing clearance at ride height. Extending the 1/4" rod:
I attached a template to the wheel at ride height, centered and level, representing the upper portion of the fender profile I wanted:
Foam taped to the tire gave me my tire/fender clearance:
Happy with the right side, I needed to duplicate the shape for the left. Setting up the right side on the work bench, I used two templates and measurements to form the reverse shape:
bobs77vet
Well-known member
wow I want to be him when I grow up
Lower rear fender repairs
These areas were rusted out, non-existent.
After installing the outer sills, I left these voids until I was further along into the fenders. Now was the time.
Left and right side, before and after:
With the 1/4" rod firmly in place representing the fender lips, I formed a few fender shapes in cardboard to see what I liked and would work with tire clearance.
Shaped 1/8" rod:
Cardboard taped in place:
After finalizing the end shape, I decided to go with four small panels in the middle and two larger ones at either end. The five 1/8" rods would mark the butt weld lines with the end panels lap welded to the body.
Final trim and body prep:
Wheel at full jounce with 1/8" rod providing fender clearance:
Wheel at ride height:
Now it was time to just fill in the blanks. I recorded the length and shape of each 1/8" dividing rod to carry over to the left side. The paper cut outs confirmed the panel sizes side to side:
These areas were rusted out, non-existent.
After installing the outer sills, I left these voids until I was further along into the fenders. Now was the time.
Left and right side, before and after:
With the 1/4" rod firmly in place representing the fender lips, I formed a few fender shapes in cardboard to see what I liked and would work with tire clearance.
Shaped 1/8" rod:
Cardboard taped in place:
After finalizing the end shape, I decided to go with four small panels in the middle and two larger ones at either end. The five 1/8" rods would mark the butt weld lines with the end panels lap welded to the body.
Final trim and body prep:
Wheel at full jounce with 1/8" rod providing fender clearance:
Wheel at ride height:
Now it was time to just fill in the blanks. I recorded the length and shape of each 1/8" dividing rod to carry over to the left side. The paper cut outs confirmed the panel sizes side to side:
Front panel formed:
Installed:
Rear panel installed:
Center panels going in:
Finished for now:
With wheel at ride height:
Left side done:
Installed:
Rear panel installed:
Center panels going in:
Finished for now:
With wheel at ride height:
Left side done:
Doors
The doors on this car were in tough shape. After I removed the door skins, (heavy with filler and rust) I sent the inner doors, (shells) out to be acid dipped. This removes all the rust. Not much came back.
The structure of an automotive door is quite standard in the industry. You have a shell which the hinge is mounted to and it has flanges which the edges of the door skin is folded over on.
These door shells would need new hinge mount assemblies and flanges replaced where needed.
Door shell mounted as a test fit:
Typical flange destruction, top front corner:
Bottom front and hinge mount assembly damage:
Hinge mount assembly removed:
New assembly fabricated:
Installed:
Repairing the door shell flanges entailed estimating what was there originally and what the new door skin would require. I fabricated angle sections and with a liberal use of the shrinker/stretcher, plug welded them to the shell.
Awkward to handle:
Left side, upper front finished:
Left rear:
The doors on this car were in tough shape. After I removed the door skins, (heavy with filler and rust) I sent the inner doors, (shells) out to be acid dipped. This removes all the rust. Not much came back.
The structure of an automotive door is quite standard in the industry. You have a shell which the hinge is mounted to and it has flanges which the edges of the door skin is folded over on.
These door shells would need new hinge mount assemblies and flanges replaced where needed.
Door shell mounted as a test fit:
Typical flange destruction, top front corner:
Bottom front and hinge mount assembly damage:
Hinge mount assembly removed:
New assembly fabricated:
Installed:
Repairing the door shell flanges entailed estimating what was there originally and what the new door skin would require. I fabricated angle sections and with a liberal use of the shrinker/stretcher, plug welded them to the shell.
Awkward to handle:
Left side, upper front finished:
Left rear:
Continued
Left lower damage:
Left lower, plug welding new section:
Right side door hinge mount-disaster:
Prepared for new assembly:
Ready for install:
Left side door lower flange rust:
Repair section prepared:
Installation:
Left lower damage:
Left lower, plug welding new section:
Right side door hinge mount-disaster:
Prepared for new assembly:
Ready for install:
Left side door lower flange rust:
Repair section prepared:
Installation:
bobs77vet
Well-known member
all i can say is WOW
Power Windows
After hanging the repaired door shells, I decided to install the Spal power window kit now before the door skins go on.
The kit I choose basically is a motor driven cable loop that drives your original window regulator. Mount the motor where ever you can.
Regulator with motor:
Motor, inside view:
Motor, outside view:
Interior door handle and lock
Changing the interior door lock to a late model style required fabricating a mounting assembly attached to the door shell that could be adjusted in or out according to the door panel that I end up with.
That was pretty straight forward, but the original handle used a push motion to lock the door. To get this motion, I added a push/pull rod on top of the door shell and fabricated a lever assembly to operate the lock trigger.
Interior handle in place:
View inside of door shell with handle mount and push/pull rod:
Locking lever assembly:
Outside Door Handle
When I got the car, the outside door handle would open the door but there was no key and the locking function was not working.
Whilst investigating, I discovered the "barrel cup casting" on both sides had the top portion broken off.
Using 20 ga. sheet metal, I fabricated one left, one right, re-keyed the tumblers to my TR6 key I had and put it all together.
Broken barrel cup with spring exposed:
Building new barrel cup:
New part with broken barrel on right:
Assembled:
After hanging the repaired door shells, I decided to install the Spal power window kit now before the door skins go on.
The kit I choose basically is a motor driven cable loop that drives your original window regulator. Mount the motor where ever you can.
Regulator with motor:
Motor, inside view:
Motor, outside view:
Interior door handle and lock
Changing the interior door lock to a late model style required fabricating a mounting assembly attached to the door shell that could be adjusted in or out according to the door panel that I end up with.
That was pretty straight forward, but the original handle used a push motion to lock the door. To get this motion, I added a push/pull rod on top of the door shell and fabricated a lever assembly to operate the lock trigger.
Interior handle in place:
View inside of door shell with handle mount and push/pull rod:
Locking lever assembly:
Outside Door Handle
When I got the car, the outside door handle would open the door but there was no key and the locking function was not working.
Whilst investigating, I discovered the "barrel cup casting" on both sides had the top portion broken off.
Using 20 ga. sheet metal, I fabricated one left, one right, re-keyed the tumblers to my TR6 key I had and put it all together.
Broken barrel cup with spring exposed:
Building new barrel cup:
New part with broken barrel on right:
Assembled:
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I have a set of similar window lift mechanisms. I didn't use them because they're not terrible strong - it had trouble with a 4 door Buick window... hopefully you don't have the same issue, but if you can, test it.
bobs77vet
Well-known member
i love this build
