Braided Fuel Line recommendation?

[greg75vette]

In 1962, I got a summer job at Aeroquip in Jackson, Michigan. It was a summer job between my Junior and Senior years in University. It was a lab job. My job was to destructively destroy new hose connector designs and also, as a part of quality control, to destroy hoses picked at random off the assembly lines. Some of these hose connectors then, and I suppose now, were astounding. They had quick disconnect hose connectors......the lines could be pressurized at 2000 psia, and you could twist the connectors by hand and disconnect them with about a liquid drop of hydraulic fluid loss. Similary, you could reconnect them by hand. I would use a paper towel segment to document the fluid loss from disconnecting 2000 psia lines. Failing the hoses and connectors with hydraulic fluid was pretty much a relaxing job. When they failed they would just spurt an ounce or so of hydraulic fluid...that would be it. Failing hoses and connectors with compressed air was nerve racking. The hoses were in a thick steel cabinet..when a hose with compressed air failed, it went off with an explosive force. My body always jumped when the hose exploded.

It was only much later in life that I realized that I was often destroying hose couplings worth many hundreds of dollars, with some it was probably in the thousands of dollars. At 18 years, I had no clue.

The gas lines on my 68...everything included...pumps, filters, lines, fittings,..tools for bending..probably cost about $1000. This was in maybe 2008.
Final statement..Aeroquip stuff, today, is expensive. For sure based on nostalgia, I like to buy it. ....Oh, I forgot..as a 21 year old I flew from Dayton, Ohio to Jackson, Michigan on Aeroquip corporate airplane, a twin engine AeroCommander...I got to fly in the right seat!

That's a pretty sweet job and impressive with their technology. They aren't cheap, but I would prefer not to lose the vette because I saved $20 on my hose ends.

What about a formed line down behind the engine and connect the hose to that?

I'm kicking this around at the moment. I have some 3/8" SS line that I was going to run down the frame, but recently decided it was far too difficult with the body on. I like the idea of a hardline at the firewall as it may look very clean. The problem with any routing to the firewall now is the bend I'd need in a fitting at the rail.
I took another look last night when I couldn't sleep and did a quick assembly of the parts off the rail. Between the quick disconnect (needed to connect to the rail), the inline pressure gauge fitting and the hose end, I was nearly touching the brake booster. This means I'll need a 45° hose end and have to run under the booster/MC. Perhaps a blessing in disguise. I did find a nice route under the booster/MC, though the labyrinth of hoses and wires to the frame rail that doesn't look like an afterthought. As a plus, I shouldn't need any hose support from the frame to the rail. Looks like this hose is stiff enough with the natural bend it would need to line up with the rail fittings.
If I routed to the firewall, I'd need a 90° fitting and that may still not clear.

For the FI on my Volvo 4 cyl 2343cc Bayliner 20' boat, I used Aeroquip hose, and the typical FI hose clamp with the screw/nut arrangement, not the usual worm hose clamp.....same with the Goat, and now the vette....

not so far away is a company called Hose Power on Industrial Loop, they have every damn hose setup you can imagine, from little shit like we talking about to fire hose, to stuff I just stare at in wonder.....:flash:

Needless to say, they have all the fittings also, and I think the prices are cheep, and the guys on the counter seem to know their shit pretty good too, so anyone need anything, I be happy to do some shopping for you all.....



:hi:

Well thanks for the offer. I'd love a place local I could shop. I have a nice local parts store, but they're stock replacements more than anything. Crap, I keep forgetting I have a speed shop near by. I should probably check that out :waxer:

 

[BBShark]

The problem with any routing to the firewall now is the bend I'd need in a fitting at the rail.

I had to make a 180 degree turn in 3/8 stainless tube with an inside radius of about 1/2 inch. Couldn't get it done without collapsing the outer wall. So I made a mandrel that wen on the inside of the tube and a brass mandrel with a channel cut in to form the bend. Did it a little at a time, bend a couple degrees, pull the inside mandrel out a hair, do a little more, etc.

I still have that stuff if you can use it.

 

[greg75vette]

The problem with any routing to the firewall now is the bend I'd need in a fitting at the rail.

I had to make a 180 degree turn in 3/8 stainless tube with an inside radius of about 1/2 inch. Couldn't get it done without collapsing the outer wall. So I made a mandrel that wen on the inside of the tube and a brass mandrel with a channel cut in to form the bend. Did it a little at a time, bend a couple degrees, pull the inside mandrel out a hair, do a little more, etc.

I still have that stuff if you can use it.

I truly appreciate it, but I know myself well enough that I will break you tools and mangle my hardline in way no one thought possible. Have you seen my U-joints thread? I don't have the best record... :gurney::blush:

I think the more simple solutions are the best route for me, no pun intended. These are my two top runners now:

1) Quick disconnect -> pressure gauge fitting -> 45° hose end and route under the booster/MC.

2) Quick disconnect -> 90° hose end and route the line to fire wall -> hose end -> 90° bulkhead -> gauge fitting -> hardlne down to framerail.

1 is the easiest, but if the gauge fitting and bulkhead get along well and I have a good run along the fire wall for a hardline, I'd consider 2. I'll play with it probably a little more tomorrow night and hopefully some more over the weekend.